Whimsical Fiat electrons

carl

carl

True Classic
BrownX............

Turn signals would some times work and usually involved very rapid blinking and then settling down.....dash repeater only worked for emergency flashers. Messed around some but never seemed to accomplish much. Then as I started driving the car they seemed to settle down and get happier. Now, they blink correctly and the dash repeater works fine. This may all go horribly wrong by tomorrow, who knows.

Horns did not work, they sort of mooed, then stopped working. I remove the stock horns and replaced them with some Amazon pieces. Again they didn't work. It appeared the problem was the transfer of electrons from the steering column connection. After fiddling around for awhile but not really noting any issue they started working...I know not why. Who knows, when I really need them they may decide not to work....life is an adventure.

The headlights always lit up but the passenger side pod didn't always go down. Then all was fine and both pods would go up and down. After playing with the horns (the new horns are not in the headlight bays anymore) the headlight pods got jealous and now neither one will go down. Maybe tomorrow they will. I guess I'm happy that at least they went up?

The wipers work wonderfully, at least so far. This is because I don't drive my Fiats in the rain.

Being more mechanically minded I don't really trust electrons, at least Italian electrons. The Fatrat as originally built had no headlights, no horns, no turn signals or wipers. I was a happy man.
 
I believe I read the blinkers are fed thru the hazard switch. I had a similar issue, wiggled the wiring to the hazard switch, & no issues since. It would seem you have may more gremlins than that...
 
I pulled the bulbs from my dash and smeared the contacts with dielectric grease, they all started working and were much brighter after that. Anything now gets a wee bit in the connector.
 
After that posting the turn signals got mad at me and while they still work, the repeater stopped! My usual fix is an electronic flasher unit...I still have the original metal can flasher.

Explain dielectric grease. I know about the bronze stuff that aids in electrical connections but the dielectric stuff is an insulator, correct?

The smartest thing Fiat ever did was provide a crank wheel to manually lower the headlights so I'm good now. I may never raise the headlights as I don't drive at night anymore.
 
It's non conductive grease. You can smear it on and it will keep corrosion at bay between the contacts but won't cause shorts.
 
ricar said:
It's non conductive grease. You can smear it on and it will keep corrosion at bay between the contacts but won't cause shorts.
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As @ricar correctly states, it is NON-conductive silicone lube. More about the "non-conductive" bit in a second. But be aware it is the same as silicone lube, plumbing lube, O-ring/seal lube, and several other names. However the price will differ dramatically depending on which name (intended purpose) the label states. Regardless, they are all the same so why pay more for less? I prefer a low cost generic one like this:
51ZjmMwKz9L.jpg

Good quality and I use it for a ton of different applications. Due to its low cost it comes in a large tube, which lasts me for decades.

About the NON-conductive aspect of dielectric grease. Just as that implies, it does NOT transfer electrons. So why is it used for electrical connections? Basically the theory is the electrical connector/terminal will squeeze out the lube from its direct contact points between the two surfaces as they are mated, allowing the electrons to flow there. Otherwise the lube coats all other areas to seal them from corrosion. Plus it provides a lube to aid in installing and removing the connector.

But there is a option; CONDUCTIVE electrical grease. It is the same silicone lube but it has been mixed with a ton of carbon/graphite (or similar highly conductive element). Therefore it actually promotes the flow of electrons for the entire terminal connection, not just the direct contact surfaces. However there is one caveat for that; it will also allow the flow of electrons between terminals in a multi-pin connector (the typical synthetic lube noted above is better here). So it is not intended for those types of connectors, but it is excellent for single pin connectors - like the vast majority of ones on the X which are basic 1/4" spade push-on terminals, as well as ground contacts (such as between the body and those "star" connectors) and larger connections (such as the starter motor, alternator and battery terminals). The synthetic lube aspect of conductive grease will offer the same corrosion protection and lubrication properties as the non-conductive stuff:
2811924-40.jpg

It has become a bit expensive in recent years. But a little goes a long way - one tube has lasted me for several decades with at least half of it left. Be aware there is one drawback to using it; the carbon/graphite in it will cause a black stain on other surfaces that is difficult to remove. So wear gloves and be careful not to get it on other stuff.
 
I had a similar issue with my X1/9 and should have posted about it... I literally pulled every fuse and relay out of the fuse box on at a time and sprayed the contacts and socket with contact cleaner.. Over the next 6 months or so I did the same with every bulb socket, wire connection and switch contact. It makes a difference...
 
carl said:
Ed, short of an electrical fire there is no way I'm opening that damn fuse panel again!
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I'm not sure it could handle a car jack again anyway.

But I definitely recommend cleaning any terminals you can get to easily. Definitely made a MASSIVE difference on my '85.
 
Now that the AC hardware has been removed, there are three relay plugs that are part of the AC electrics. The relays are long gone for those plugs but the wiring is all there going to the plugs. That's a lot of wires in that rat's nest that now do nothing but take up space. Maybe that will be a winter project to pull all that crap out.

The headlights have decided they will only go down mechanically (turning the motor knobs) so I'll be back in there anyway.
 
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