X1/9 Door handle refurbish?

monoposto

New Member
Hi, new guy here. I did a search but couldn't find anything quite like I'm looking for.

I basically want to take my x1/9 door handles apart and restore the finish of the handle/plastic but also make it easier to replace the key barrels at the same time.

So is there a thread I couldn't find with pictures of the process on taking the door handles apart? Or maybe someone is kind enough to post the process here?
 
They really are not intended to be taken apart, at least not the plastic to metal pivot fixings. The key barrels are very easy to replace/changeout as they are.

You can acquire the little bumpers to replace the squashed ones from our very crafty member Ricardo Borja to bring the handles up to level.
 
Bummer. So I guess if I want to repaint them, I should mask the plastic off pretty well?

Is there a recommended method to atleast repaint the handle portion?
 
Actually, they're not too hard to take apart. I've done five cars worth over the years. I just don't have have photos to assist.
Basically, there are two pins pressed into the plastic housing that the metal pull pivots on. I use a punch to back them out. It's really quite simple. Just take pictures as you go.
 
Taking the door handles apart

Mark is right, it is not that hard to take them apart. Once apart, you can either paint the black plastic or replace the plastic part. I recently bought two new plastic handle housings from Henk as I wanted to replace mine as they were pretty sun baked. I also bought a matched lock set as mine were mismatched and I had no key for one anyway.

To take the handles apart, or to just change the lock cylinders, you need to first remove the pawls from the cylinders. There is a small pin that can be carefully driven out. I used a flattened nail as a driver.

I labelled them right and left so I wouldn't get confused. I was also careful not to drive the pin out entirely so I could get it back on. Just enough for it to come off the lock cylinder.


You can then remove the spring that is around the end of the lock cylinder and out it comes. The next part is to remove the pivot pins that are visible when you lift the handle or depress the lock button.
I used a pliers like this to push it from the inside out. Mark suggested a punch which could also work.
It doesn't need to go far before it comes loose, then you can just pull it from the outside. Then the two parts of the handle come out and you have just the plastic surround to paint or replace. Just take some pictures and pay attention to how the various springs go when you put it back together.

Here is a picture of the new surround I got from Henk compared to my old one.
I didn't notice that there are two extra "struts" that can be seen in the lock part of the housing. I put the handle back together and found that the handle would not open, rather just the lock button can be pushed with your thumb to open the door. I checked with Henk and he said that the later year ones were like that. I preferred mine to lift open the way I am used to, so I carefully ground out the struts so they were smooth and then put the handle back together and now they are like new.
 
Awesome! This is exactly what I was hoping for! Does "henk" have a website? Mine are sort of sunbaked as well.
 
I have a a 1979 x-1/9 Bertone that I am restoring, how do you all take the left and right door of its frame, these Phillip Bolts are so tight, it won't budge at all!!, since I will be welding and fixing these doors I need them off the car. need some advice!!
 
Rodger, to remove large phillips head fasteners from things like this I use one of those old fashion impact driver-hammer tools. They are not too expensive and actually work very well. It typically breaks the frozen bolt free with a few blows. That being said, these cars are notorious for rusting so it is always a gamble to try and remove anything. Here is the type of tool I'm referring to:
ImpactDriverWithBits.png


I also have a couple of powered impact drivers - both air and electric. But for this type of application I find the hand type (above) often works better. It tends to push inward as it rotates, so less chance of slipping and stripping the phillips head.

Another option that works sometimes is a large phillips "socket" bit with a long breaker bar. Looks like this:
GW_80469_FRNT_MAIN.jpg


But method "A" is preferred.

I'll be swapping out a rusted door eventually, so please let us know how it goes and what you learn.
 
Yes, use an impact driver, the one Dr. Jeff showed that you use with a hammer. Works like a charm.

Remember, if you're gonna weld the doors and leave the glass in you MUST protect the glass from any sparks and weld stuff or you'll ruin the glass.

You should post some photos of your doors and your project! Best of luck...
 
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