Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by RJH, May 11, 2018.
Thought interesting and wanted to share.
Pretty cool. The excitement is building.....time to get it reinstalled & on the road!
Nicely done. And I like the engine testing stand.
All the most important parts in one little place.
Very nice way to verify and trouble shoot when you can access everything directly.
Nice build. Like the test stand. Great minds think alike!
While my engine is out for rust repairs to the engine bay I thought I'd build a test stand for my next engine build using the current setup as a guide. It's not finished yet, I need to find a radiator and fuel tank. Hopefully as the dimensions are the same as the engine bay it will help with positioning aux components, AFM, intercooler, ecu etc.
When I have finished with it as a test stand I plan to fit a steel top and us it as a mobile work bench.
That is a massive stand! Perhaps just weld the whole affair into your engine bay for added chassis stiffness and rigidity?
Nice. I like the stripped down repurposed cluster too - why not, after all?
I wish i could have/would have built an engine stand like that. My engine is fully rebuilt and midway through installation. I hope everything works out as well as yours did.
Could you provide your engine specs? Pistons, rods, cam, CR, carb, Cylinder head P/N and specs (I always have to ask that), etc.?
Hmm, I have never seen an X1/9 with a short extension shaft coming from the gearbox?
That's because its an Uno transmission.
Rod, It's an X1/9 gearbox with an Uno turbo intermediate shaft. The reason for using it is to move the CV joint away from the exhaust down pipe.
Andrew, Did you want my engine spec or RJHs ?
Hmm, where would I get that setup for the wife's car? Her header is right next to the boot.
They often add a shaft like that on FWD cars to equalize the halfshaft lengths to minimize torque steer.
For some reason that does not sound quite right if read out of context.
Rod, I had same issue long ago. Made simple heat shield...worked fine for more than a decade.
I am just curious as to what bits and pieces people use to build their engines up. If it's a secret that is understandable as well. Otherwise, items like pistons, cam, bore, stroke, CR, looks like twin 40 DCNFs? etc.
I do like that intermediate shaft idea. It has been so long since I've driven mine that I do not know if the X has any torque steer or not. Perhaps the torque numbers are so low to not matter either way.
Can anyone explain what that white cylinder is on the bottom front passenger side of the block is shown in white in the first picture attached? I've seen reference to it in the manuals but cannot remember what it is and what its purpose is for. My block has a non drill casted bung there. Would I benefit from having this device installed at some point?
I also have two threaded holes near and one in the bottom middle of the block that but unsure what they are for. My block shown in the second picture before I painted it.
AK, that is a oil pressure sender unit. This particular type looks to be for a aftermarket gauge. Some blocks came with the threaded hole there. My block is like yours, no hole just a raised area where it might have been, but it is solid. I suppose if your block is completely torn down, then you could drill and tap that. But I would not risk doing it on a assembled engine. Too much risk of getting metal filings in the oil system. You can add the same type pressure sender at the other standard port (mid-position on the side of the block). Two ways to add it while retaining the dash 'warning' light.
One way is by adding one of these 'piggy-back' adapters (below). It allows you to have two senders; the stock light switch and the aftermarket gauge sender:
The other way is to use a aftermarket sender with two wire contacts; one for the gauge and one for the warning light. These sending units are build as a "two-in-one" package, eliminating (replacing) the stock light switch:
However if you want to add a aftermarket sender (for a pressure gauge), know they come with various sizes of threaded fitting. It is a little difficult finding one with the same thread pattern as the stock hole in the Fiat block. In my case I already have an extra VDO sender/gauge that I will use, but it has a smaller fitting. So I will use a thread adapter to mount it (O.D. matches the block, I.D. matches the sender).
That is the oil pressure gauge sender that came with the early cars. On my 1500, the port is not drilled and taped so I need to use the idiot light port with a Y adapter to make the gauge on my 74 to work.
The second picture shows the mount points for the fuel pump, distributor, oil filter, trap (PCV).
The white cylinder is the oil pressure sender.
You would not get torque steer on an X as it's rear wheel drive. Torque steer is the feeling that as you accelerate the steering is pulling to one side. This is a front wheel drive problem. Equal length drive shafts minimises the effect. I think US spec Stradas had this shaft.
Be aware that if you get one of these intermediate shafts the mounting for the alternator is about 20mm further away from the block. This makes the alternator foul the adjustment bracket at the top of the alternator. The belt needs to be longer too.
My engine spec is as follows as far as I can remember. It was 10 years ago.
14 bolt X1/9 block and head.
Fiat Tipo pistons
Fiat Tipo crankshaft
Sweep Volume 1602.6 cc
Combustion chamber size 30.5 cc
Piston dish size 3.4 cc
Gasket thickness 1.7mm
Gasket vol 10.1cc
Total compressed vol 44.1cc
Compression Ratio 10.1:1
Port face 30mm through to valve thought 28mm
Inlet valve size 37.5mm
Exhaust valve size 33mm
Cam Piper 285 36/72/72/36 10.4mm @108deg
Power band 2500-7300rpm
DCNF 40’s 34mm venturies
180 air correctors
f22 emulsion tubes
4.5 Aux vent
I may have changed the jetting a little.
Filter King regulator/filter
Facet silver top pump
Lancia delta 1500 distributor
10 deg static timing.
CSC exhaust manifold
10” Primarys 30mm ID (way too short, but all I had at the time)
2” Custom system
Hope this is enough info.
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