X1/9 engine rebuild running

Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by RJH, May 11, 2018.

  1. RJH

    RJH True Classic

    Thought interesting and wanted to share.

  2. 7982X

    7982X True Classic

    Pretty cool. The excitement is building.....time to get it reinstalled & on the road!
  3. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Sin City
    Nicely done. And I like the engine testing stand. :)
  4. kmead

    kmead Insufferable dum bass

    All the most important parts in one little place.

    Very nice way to verify and trouble shoot when you can access everything directly.
  5. lidox19

    lidox19 Daily Driver

    Cheltenham UK
    20180324_162833.jpg Nice build. Like the test stand. Great minds think alike!
    While my engine is out for rust repairs to the engine bay I thought I'd build a test stand for my next engine build using the current setup as a guide. It's not finished yet, I need to find a radiator and fuel tank. Hopefully as the dimensions are the same as the engine bay it will help with positioning aux components, AFM, intercooler, ecu etc.
    When I have finished with it as a test stand I plan to fit a steel top and us it as a mobile work bench.
  6. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Sin City
    That is a massive stand! Perhaps just weld the whole affair into your engine bay for added chassis stiffness and rigidity? :p
  7. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Nice. I like the stripped down repurposed cluster too - why not, after all? :D
  8. AKimball92

    AKimball92 True Classic

    I wish i could have/would have built an engine stand like that. My engine is fully rebuilt and midway through installation. I hope everything works out as well as yours did.

    Could you provide your engine specs? Pistons, rods, cam, CR, carb, Cylinder head P/N and specs (I always have to ask that), etc.?
    m5art likes this.
  9. Rod Midkiff

    Rod Midkiff True Classic

    Eugene, OR
    Hmm, I have never seen an X1/9 with a short extension shaft coming from the gearbox?
  10. That's because its an Uno transmission.
  11. lidox19

    lidox19 Daily Driver

    Cheltenham UK
    Rod, It's an X1/9 gearbox with an Uno turbo intermediate shaft. The reason for using it is to move the CV joint away from the exhaust down pipe.
    Andrew, Did you want my engine spec or RJHs ?
  12. Rod Midkiff

    Rod Midkiff True Classic

    Eugene, OR
    Hmm, where would I get that setup for the wife's car? Her header is right next to the boot.
  13. dllubin

    dllubin True Classic

    They often add a shaft like that on FWD cars to equalize the halfshaft lengths to minimize torque steer.
    Dr.Jeff likes this.
  14. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Sin City
    For some reason that does not sound quite right if read out of context. :)
    mkmini and Daniel Forest like this.
  15. olerascal

    olerascal True Classic

    Damascus Oregon
    Rod, I had same issue long ago. Made simple heat shield...worked fine for more than a decade.
  16. AKimball92

    AKimball92 True Classic

    I am just curious as to what bits and pieces people use to build their engines up. If it's a secret that is understandable as well. Otherwise, items like pistons, cam, bore, stroke, CR, looks like twin 40 DCNFs? etc.

    I do like that intermediate shaft idea. It has been so long since I've driven mine that I do not know if the X has any torque steer or not. Perhaps the torque numbers are so low to not matter either way.
  17. AKimball92

    AKimball92 True Classic

    Can anyone explain what that white cylinder is on the bottom front passenger side of the block is shown in white in the first picture attached? I've seen reference to it in the manuals but cannot remember what it is and what its purpose is for. My block has a non drill casted bung there. Would I benefit from having this device installed at some point?

    I also have two threaded holes near and one in the bottom middle of the block that but unsure what they are for. My block shown in the second picture before I painted it.

    upload_2018-5-30_10-48-50.png block prepaint.JPG
  18. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Sin City
    AK, that is a oil pressure sender unit. This particular type looks to be for a aftermarket gauge. Some blocks came with the threaded hole there. My block is like yours, no hole just a raised area where it might have been, but it is solid. I suppose if your block is completely torn down, then you could drill and tap that. But I would not risk doing it on a assembled engine. Too much risk of getting metal filings in the oil system. You can add the same type pressure sender at the other standard port (mid-position on the side of the block). Two ways to add it while retaining the dash 'warning' light.

    One way is by adding one of these 'piggy-back' adapters (below). It allows you to have two senders; the stock light switch and the aftermarket gauge sender:

    The other way is to use a aftermarket sender with two wire contacts; one for the gauge and one for the warning light. These sending units are build as a "two-in-one" package, eliminating (replacing) the stock light switch:

    However if you want to add a aftermarket sender (for a pressure gauge), know they come with various sizes of threaded fitting. It is a little difficult finding one with the same thread pattern as the stock hole in the Fiat block. In my case I already have an extra VDO sender/gauge that I will use, but it has a smaller fitting. So I will use a thread adapter to mount it (O.D. matches the block, I.D. matches the sender).
  19. dllubin

    dllubin True Classic

    That is the oil pressure gauge sender that came with the early cars. On my 1500, the port is not drilled and taped so I need to use the idiot light port with a Y adapter to make the gauge on my 74 to work.

    The second picture shows the mount points for the fuel pump, distributor, oil filter, trap (PCV).
  20. lidox19

    lidox19 Daily Driver

    Cheltenham UK
    The white cylinder is the oil pressure sender.

    You would not get torque steer on an X as it's rear wheel drive. Torque steer is the feeling that as you accelerate the steering is pulling to one side. This is a front wheel drive problem. Equal length drive shafts minimises the effect. I think US spec Stradas had this shaft.
    Be aware that if you get one of these intermediate shafts the mounting for the alternator is about 20mm further away from the block. This makes the alternator foul the adjustment bracket at the top of the alternator. The belt needs to be longer too.

    My engine spec is as follows as far as I can remember. It was 10 years ago.

    14 bolt X1/9 block and head.
    Fiat Tipo pistons
    Fiat Tipo crankshaft
    Bore 87mm
    Stroke 67.4mm
    Sweep Volume 1602.6 cc
    Combustion chamber size 30.5 cc
    Piston dish size 3.4 cc
    Gasket thickness 1.7mm
    Gasket vol 10.1cc
    Total compressed vol 44.1cc
    Compression Ratio 10.1:1

    Port face 30mm through to valve thought 28mm
    Inlet valve size 37.5mm
    Exhaust valve size 33mm

    Cam Piper 285 36/72/72/36 10.4mm @108deg
    Power band 2500-7300rpm

    DCNF 40’s 34mm venturies
    140 main
    180 air correctors
    f22 emulsion tubes
    50 idle
    4.5 Aux vent
    I may have changed the jetting a little.

    K&N filter
    Filter King regulator/filter
    Facet silver top pump

    Lancia delta 1500 distributor
    10 deg static timing.

    CSC exhaust manifold
    10” Primarys 30mm ID (way too short, but all I had at the time)
    2” Custom system

    Hope this is enough info.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice