Yugo GVX service manual?!

myronx19

True Classic
Hi Everyone,

Does anyone happen to have a digital copy of the Yugo GVX service manual? I believe these had a TDC sensor (like the Mk1 Fiat Uno Turbo) and a speed sensor on the transmission.

I'd like to know how to set the true position of the TDC sensor and sensor gaps (for the transmission). Thanks!
 
Thanks guys - somewhere I read that the Yugo had TDC sensors, but perhaps that information is incorrect. I did find the information I was looking for from the Uno manual (the Uno Turbo manual refers to an alignment procedure in the Uno ES manual, which I don't have! - but someone sent me those pages).

Thanks!
 
Maybe on the GV Plus? those had fuel injection. The GVX was a glorified GV, 1300 engine, 5 speed trans, and body treatment, different wheels. It's been several years since I drove my car but I don't recall any check engine light or such instrumentation.

I believe the GV Plus had the motronic vs jettronic FI.
 
Myron,

Is this what you are looking for?

Below is a copy from a BMW performance site (http://www.hiperformancestore.com/motronic.htm)

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Step 8, Speed Sensor and Reference Sensor!

So, you are cruising along on interstate 10 in your Motronic Basic 528e, 533i, or 535i secure in the knowledge that Robert Bosch improved the Motronic system so that a coolant temp sensor won't leave you stranded like it did with the old L-Jetronic system in your E12 528i. Now is when you find out he added two new sensors that will leave your stranded. *Failure of either of these will stop your car dead, right NOW! Well, that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but not much. Please read on.

The Motronic Basic 528e, 533i, or 535i all have two sensors mounted on the bell housing. The first is called the speed sensor. As you may have guessed it reports engine RPM to the Motronic ECU. Failure of this sensor may or may not totally disable your car. It's supposed to limp along poorly constantly missing if this sensor fails. Reality may be different.

The reference sensor is more critical. Without it the car will not run.

These are both mounted on the driver's side of the bellhousing. The speed sensor is mounted above the reference sensor. Caution: the two sensors are actually identical, so it's possible to connect them incorrectly. If the speed sensor is plugged into the connector for the reference sensor, and vice versa, the car won't run. The speed sensor mounts above the reference sensor and connects to the BLACK plug. The reference sensor connects to the GREY plug.

Both of these plugs have the Bosch style connectors on them with the dreaded metal clip. It's probable that the connectors will have been damaged at some point in the cars life. Mechanics love to test these sensors, but they really don't like messing with the metal clips so they tend to force and break things. If the connector is damaged DO NOT try to cut off the connector and solder on a new one. You won't be able to do it. You will have to find another way to secure the connector (tape, zip ties, etc.), or replace the entire sensor.

The Speed and Reference sensors connect to the Motronic wiring harness at the crossover bracket. Watch out, these two connectors can be reversed so make sure the upper sensor connects to the black connector.

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Thankfully it's very easy to test these sensors. Once again, get out your Ohm meter. Remove one of the connectors. Note that this time there are three electrical terminals present. That means three tests per sensor. The terminals are numbered 1, 2, and 3 from left to right as viewed from the front of the car. If your car's crossover bracket is missing orient the sensor so that the single tab is up, and the two tabs are down. Now the terminal on the left is number 1.

Measure resistance between terminals 1 and 2. You should have 864-1056 ohms. Between terminals 1 and 3 you should have 100,000 ohms minimum. Between 2 and 3, again, 100,000 ohms minimum. Now Bosch wants you to take this reading with the outside air temperature of 77F (25C). I find it doesn't make much difference, but if it's really hot or cold out and the sensor is a little out of spec, I probably wouldn't worry about it.

Now test the other sensor. The values we are looking for are the same because these two sensors are EXACTLY the same part number.

In the picture below I am testing the reference sensor between terminals 1 and 2. The sensor passes!

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It's a really good idea to carry a spare sensor with you if you are taking a long trip. Since they are both the same you really only need to keep one with your spare fuses and relays.

Sharp observers will notice a position sensor mounted on the front of the engine of a Motronic Basic 528e, 533i, or 535i. This sensor has NOTHING to do with the running of the engine. It's not linked to the Motronic system in any way. It's used to hook up some device the dealers have.

If you have a 528e with Motronic 1.1, your car does not have the two reference sensors on the bellhousing. Instead it has a "pulse sensor" mounted at the front of the engine. Test the resistance of this sensor and look for an ohm reading from 486-594. You also need to verify that the tip of the sensor is within .7mm-1.3mm from the toothed wheel.
 
the Uno Turbo manual refers to an alignment procedure in the Uno ES manual, which I don't have! - but someone sent me those pages
Myron, I do not need the UT info specifically, but I'm curious. In a nutshell, what is the procedure to get the sensors set correctly? Do they have a adjustable mounting bracket, or ??

I am building a toothed ring and sensor setup for my X's engine (for a aftermarket ECU). And I'm learning about getting it to work correctly, so just wondering if any of the UT info might help stimulate ideas. Thanks.
 
Below is a copy from a BMW performance site
Andy, the article you reference brings to mind a prior experience. With Myron having found his answer, I'll go off topic and relay it.
In the early 80's I had a 535 BMW with that exact EFI system. Bosch was one of the pioneers of fuel injection for production vehicles, and the concept of electronic injection was new at that time. In fact, just a couple years prior, I attended Bosch's technical training program and the FI discussions were about the mechanical CIS systems - Motronic had not been developed yet. So when my 535 would not start one morning I had no idea how to diagnose the FI. Remember this was long before the internet existed. In those days you had maybe 3 options; the dealer, a knowledgeable independent service facility, or write a letter to somewhere and wait to see if they had any answers. As for BMW's, the factory has always been extremely secretive about their info, so taking your car to the dealer for service was outrageously expensive (if they could fix it - often they just kept replacing parts with new ones until it ran again, and billed you for all of it). For the same reason, independant service facilities could not help much because they were not privilege to BMW's service data (a big lawsuit developed over this). And about the only place you might ask questions was the BMWCCA (owners club), which was a great resource but this was beyond their knowledge base at that time.
After some basic diagnostic work I was able to isolate the problem to the injection system; spark, compression, etc was all good, just no fuel. Fortunately I found a independent service facility that was a Bosch electrical specialist (one of only a few in the country). Towed the car there. They were able to determine that one of the injection's position sensors (as discussed in the above article) had gone bad. Replaced it and all was good - at a fraction of the cost, time, and hassle of the dealers.
Now we can just go online, Google it, and order the needed part from a discount seller. The younger guys may not realize just how fortunate that is.
 
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