Strut info needed

rx1900

1981 X1/9
Hi folks. Beginning work on a proper DIY coilover conversion. I promise you it will be awesome and just what everyone seems to be looking for.

I have been collecting parts and hope someone out there can provide some info to avoid too many blind alley purchases. All my research so far points to using VW Rabbit inserts into ????. I have collected so far:

some Sachs OE type VW inserts - they are 42mm O.D. (reduced to 40mm for the top couple of inches.

some performance VW inserts (not Bilstein)- dimensions as above

some stock VW strut housings (the external thread type) - these are 48mm O.D. bumped up to 50mm O.D. for the top couple of inches. These have an I.D. of 42mm - yes the inserts are a tight fit. The tubes have a wall thickness of 3mm.

some stock X1/9 later sealed struts. These have an O.D. of 45mm. Strangely one has the O.D. bumped up to 47mm for the top couple of inches, the other is not bumped. I do not know the I.D. as the struts are sealed and I have not sawn them open.

some X1/9 KYB gas struts. They are actually still on my car but I did measure the O.D. at 45mm. Strangely I can see that there actually is a threaded nut on top and they could surely be disassembled ! The inside of the tube must have threads. The tubes are straight with no bump at top. I would love to take them apart to see what is inside but apparantely you are not supposed to dismantle them ? and besides they are still on the car and almost new!

I have not yet been able to obtain some early X1/9 rebuildable strut housings. But if they are 45mm O.D. (like the later sealed struts) then if the 42mm VW inserts fit then the tubes must only be 1.5mm thick (half the thickness of the VW housings). Doesn't seem right. I have done a lot of searches (here and google) and I know the Bilstein inserts fit. I don't know their O.D. One search indicated that only some VW inserts fit. And is the X1/9 housing bumped up at the top? It is hard to tell from the photos I was able to find.

So I guess for now I have 2 questions:

Has anyone ever tried to dismantle the X1/9 KYB struts? What is the I.D.? But don't try it until we know it is safe to do so ! Or does anyone out there have any dead KYBs they would like to send me ?

Does anyone know the O.D. and I.D. of the early X1/9 housings ? Are they bumped up at the top?

Thanks, Doug
 
Hello Doug,

Given the amount of work and part cost involved, I'm not sure if I'll try this again. Problem with converting stock take-apart-able strut housings or KYB take-apart-able strut housings, the limited choices of damper inserts is THE problem.

A performance oriented exxe will need between 300 to 500+ lb/in front and about 100 lb/in less on the rear. KYB and Bilstien inserts as delivered don't work well above 300 lb/in. As discussed in another thread, Bilstiens can be re-valved, at a price and they do not offer digressive valving, only linear.

If the parts cost is added up and work involved. I'm not going to do this again. For all the work involved, it is better to make a set of strut housings from scratch to be used with Koni 8611 damper inserts.

*Good springs (Hypercoil, Eibach), * $60 to $90 ea. X 4 ea.

*Ebay "Honda Coil over kit (Springs in these kits are 350lb/in and are not good quality.. expect sag) * $40 set.

*New damper inserts. KYB wabbit inserts, * $35 ea, X 4 ea.

See how fast the individual parts cost ad up?

Even with the fitment problems with the K-sport strut kit, add the reinforcement plates made by Brian and it becomes a reasonable cost alternative to other housing and damper inserts.

It all depends on what you're going to do with your exxe chassis.

This was meant to be posted at a later date, but since the topic of KYB housings came up.. here is what I did to a set of take-apart-able KYB housings converting them to "coil over". I'm still debating over what damper housings to use in these with 400 lb/in front springs, 300 lb/in springs rear.

Made an octagon socket for the KYB strut housing gland nut. This is a special metric size. The metal is thin and using an open end wrench risk damaging the gland nut.
kybglandnutsocketsm.jpg


Here is what the KYB housings look like taken apart:


kybhousingsspringseatcu.jpg


The KYB damper insert:
kybinserts.jpg


Drilling out the upper strut housing bolt hole for an eccentric camber adjuster:
kybhousingdrillingforca.jpg


Set up the housing in a lathe, cut off the stock spring perch. Note the set up with rotating 3 jaw chuck on the tail stock and 4 jaw independent chuck to center the housing with a dial indicator before cutting.
kybhousingonlathe.jpg


kybhousingonlatheftview.jpg


kybhousingonlathetpview.jpg


Once the spring perches are cut to fit the threaded collar's ID.
Four threaded collar support rings and gap filler rings are made. Height of these sub-assemblies are set and ready for welding:
kybrearreadytoweldsm.jpg


Prepped for paint with "Pre-cote" Zinc oxide primer and final coat.

kybfrontsreadytoweldsm.jpg


Finished housings welded and painted
kybhousingsweldeduppain.jpg


Finished housing with threaded collar installed:
kybhousingsweldeduppain.jpg


There is still a lot more to do before these are ready to install..

IMO, this is a whole lotta work and the savings in not as much as one might believe..

Bernice




some X1/9 KYB gas struts. They are actually still on my car but I did measure the O.D. at 45mm. Strangely I can see that there actually is a threaded nut on top and they could surely be disassembled ! The inside of the tube must have threads. The tubes are straight with no bump at top. I would love to take them apart to see what is inside but apparantely you are not supposed to dismantle them ? and besides they are still on the car and almost new!

Has anyone ever tried to dismantle the X1/9 KYB struts? What is the I.D.? But don't try it until we know it is safe to do so ! Or does anyone out there have any dead KYBs they would like to send me ?

Thanks, Doug
 
Wow Bernice

Thank you for your thoughtful and involved reply. Your contributions to this forum are invaluable.

First off, as for intended use, it will be strictly street. But I am intending for my project to be also suitable for occasional track usage. I wish to retain a decent ride and not have to wear a kidney belt for a spirited Sunday drive. I've always said the first sign of old age is appreciating a good ride as much as good handling !

I think I have found the perfect insert for an X. Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable gas for a VW Rabbit. Adjustable from the top without any dismantling. Crank them down for a nice Sunday drive or crank them up for track or use with stiff springs. Also allows you adjust the damping at different levels front and rear, to account for stiffer springing or heavier weights at each end of the car. I have not seen much written about these Tokicos here - although a search did seem to reveal that Mark Plaia thinks highly of them. Care to chime in here Mark ?

I intend - and I think our opinions differ a little here - to run quite moderate spring rates. Like 150 front/ 200 rear. For a nice smooth ride and the ability to soak up uneven pavement. If additional roll stiffness is desired than that will be addressed by sway bars.

I was shocked at what you found inside the KYB struts. I thought, being assemblies, they would have used the housing as the outer tube. Surprized to see a cartridge inside there. But what I am dying to know is the I.D. of the housing. To know if my Tokikos will slide in there. I have my doubts but I am hopeful !

I have found some coilover sleeves with an I.D. of 45.2mm , so I reckon with a coat of paint these sleeves would be a perfect fit over the KYB tubes. I think by now you know where I am heading.

Thanks, Doug
 
Ride

Doug,

if you are after ride quality, adjustable shocks are great.
I have some german made adjustable ones (NLA) and the adjustablity is great for this purpose.
Ride quality is not a soft shock. Too soft is (almost) just as bad as too stiff.

BUT, if you are planning on going with low spring rates, close to stock, you won't be able to lower the X all that much.
Also, the stock (or KYB) shocks will work great for the near-stock spring rates.
So in this case, why not use stock springs and shocks in the first place?!
My buddy runs a totally stock suspension in great shape (all parts are near new) with CD30s and 185/60. His car leans a lot, but he is fast!
On a normal country road, my suspension is not much faster.
The ride quality is so sweet!
Add a swaybar for neutral handling in fast corners, and you are set!
Lower the car for looks by rewelding the front struts if you like.
 
I think I have found the perfect insert for an X. Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable gas for a VW Rabbit.

JMO, but the Tokiko Illumina's do not have enough rebound to to control much stiffer than, say, 250 lb springs. Your starting rates should be no issue, but should you decide that is not enough (and you would be suprised how high a spring rate you can go and still be comfortable on the road), then you may end up with desire for more spring and a damper that cnnot handle it (I do not know if Tokiko's are rebuildable / revalveable, but this shoudl be an important deciding factor).

Good luck with your project.
 
hmmmm got me thinking...

I wasnt going to play with the suspension yet, but my Donor Honda Purple pimpmobile I am using for the b16 conversion has aftermarket coilovers on it. I see yet another winter project on its way!


Odie
 
Having built several sets of strut housings...

either from scratch or from VW units, I have to agree with Bernice, it is a huge amount of work. I'm about at the point where I would look at aftermarket before I would do it again. In addition to the amount of work/time that must be thrown at it, you also have to consider whether your fabrication/welding skills are good enough to avoid catastrophic failure.

I run the Tokiko Illuminas in my Scorpion with the homegrown strut housings. The adjustment is convienient and actually does make a difference you can feel. I have 250 f, 200 r springs on that car.

If you have a set of the Illumina inserts laying around, could you measure the OD for me? I have been wondering if they will fit in X1/9 housings.

Pete

I have
 
Update

Many thanks to all who responded. Your input is greatly appreciated.

Ulix. Yes you are right, I would probably be happy enough with the stock suspension, but I am keen to improve it a bit. I like the idea of adjustable shocks (it seems you do too) and would like it to be a bit stiffer with the ability to adjust the ride heights. Also improves the tire clearance with the strut, which is really marginal on my car now. And besides, it seems like a fun and learning project ! I think you make a very important point about all the suspension components being newish and in perfect shape. This to me includes renewing all suspension and steering bushings.

Kevin. From what I gather, the Tokikos should be fine with the moderate spring rates I intend to use. I would think that cranked to full hard they would accept a pretty stiff spring, but of course I don't know. I would like to hear from anyone else out there who is running them on their X, but from what I gathered from my searches, there seems to be very few. As for spring rates for the street, there seems to be quite a diversity of opinions out there. I sort of recall one member ( I think maybe Dan from Philly) who has 2 or more X's, one of which has some maybe IAP springs on it. Those springs are only claimed to be about 15% stiffer than stock (which would make them about 140/180) yet I thinks he finds it uncomfortably harsh compared to his other X. This gives me cause for concern.Have you ever run stiffer than stock springs ? I am encouraged by your comments about stiffer springs and ride quality, so perhaps we will have to try and see !

Pete. How are you my friend ? I hope you remember me. I still remember I owe you a favour. Thanks for your input on the Tokicos. What else have you run on an X or a Scorpion and how would you compare them ? Remember I am talking street and maybe occasional track usage. Yes I have a brand new pair of the VW Tokico Illuminas.They measure (with my plastic vernier) about 42.0mm O.D. (1.654"). If you have any of the X rebuildable original strut housings in your stash (and I know you have quite a stash !), would you be so kind as to measure their I.D.

Odie. Let's make your suspension as quick as your engine is going to be !

Thanks, Doug
 
The ID of a KYB housing is about 40 mm, OD about 45.5mm dia. or a damper diameter of 42mm will not fit.

I'm going to call the folks at Performance Shock to see what they can do with these housings..
http://performanceshock.com/

Bernice

If you have any of the X rebuildable original strut housings in your stash (and I know you have quite a stash !), would you be so kind as to measure their I.D.

Thanks, Doug
 
Hey Doug

Pete. How are you my friend ? I hope you remember me. I still remember I owe you a favour. Thanks for your input on the Tokicos. What else have you run on an X or a Scorpion and how would you compare them ? Remember I am talking street and maybe occasional track usage. Yes I have a brand new pair of the VW Tokico Illuminas.They measure (with my plastic vernier) about 42.0mm O.D. (1.654"). If you have any of the X rebuildable original strut housings in your stash (and I know you have quite a stash !), would you be so kind as to measure their I.D.

Thanks for the measurement. My K20 X1/9 had the X rebuildable housings, converted to coil-overs, but I haven't taken delivery of it yet so I haven't had a chance to measure the housings, but I see that Bernice has verified they will not fit.

Matt is working on a set of Bilsteins for it, they are documented in another thread around here somewhere.

My experience with VW strut inserts is thus far limited to only the KYB's and the Tokicos. The Tokicos are a nice step up from the KYBs, the KYBs are only good for 200-225lb springs. After that they lose control and the car pogos. The Tokicos do nicely with the 250lb springs on the front of the Scorp, they control excess oscillation and can be firmed up with a twist of the screwdriver. I will say that I wish their firmest setting was a bit more firm, but I'd say they are well worth the $60-70 step up from KYBs.

How's the rest of your X project coming? Did you ever find the interior pieces you were after?

Pete
 
This MIGHT be the answer..

Spoke to the folks at Performance Shock.. damper inserts with a 40mm dia is VERY limited. Basically these will be KYB for VW rabbit or Bilstien for VW rabbit.

More conservation went on.. the consensus is, make new housings for Koni 8610 or 8611 or other larger diameter damper inserts..

I kept thinking about how to solve this problem.. knowing that Koni's are a twin tube damper. Some time ago, I spoke to the folks at Truechoice about this problem and they suggested putting the Koni 86xx innards into the stock housings..

With a bit of searching for what the innards of a Koni 8610 looks like, this appears from the VW folks:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4901485-strut-shortening-how-to

This how to shorten the piston on a Koni 8610.. but after looking at the 8610 innards, it looks very possible to install these damper bits into the KYB housings..

All the machined parts are quite do-able based on this bit of info. So, I'm going to round up some Koni 8610-1436 dampers, take them apart and see if the innards can be installed into the Fiat/KYB housings..

If this does not work, I'll need to make another set of housings specifically for the 8611 series..

Bernice
 
My local suspension guru (Peter Wilkinson of Wilkinson suspension - who is also a Koni stockist - rebuilder) uses 8610-1343 legs front and rear, fitted into stock dismountable strut tubes....or he can cut the top off sealed units and modify the strut tube to suit a gland nut

I've posted this info before....

I'm pretty sure he uses the same leg in scopicarlo struts too...

SteveC
 
J(and you would be suprised how high a spring rate you can go and still be comfortable on the road)
^Good point. The use of a high quality spring can feel lighter than a standard quality spring of the same poundage. They can have a thinner diameter, have a "quicker" movement (keeps the wheel on the ground on the bumpies), and allow more travel due to thinner wire. A quality damper also affects the feel of a spring. I'm using Swifts, which are about $100 each. They are 25%+ stiffer but feel really nice.

Great info, Rupunzell! As usual your work is so nice, wish I had half of your abilities. Those threaded collars with painted mms are really cool. I have McPherson assemblies (Honda) prepped for the Race Konis (8611 1257) that have been modified for extra travel so when lowered they still have sufficient travel. I am temporarily using yellows (8610s?) while getting the springs/height calibrated. Can't wait for the d.a. Race Konis! It's been a lot of work and a pain in the rear but will be as good as much more expensive set ups. Highly recommended.
 
Swift Springs+++

These cars need a good amount of rebound damping in front, I used to like the oil Konis for that, since the adjustment dealt with the rebound.
 
Thanks folks...

for all your input. Please keep it coming.

Bernice: Thanks again. I guess I'll consider the KYB housings as "strike one" , at least as far as the Tokico or Sachs are concerned. A google search seemed to indicate the VW Rabbit Bilsteins are about 38.3mm O.D., so I reckon they would fit the KYB housings. I find it strange that the Bilstein inserts are so much smaller than the I.D. of the VW housings (42mm). It would seem to me that the bigger the shock, the better (more piston area, more fluid capacity).

Pete: Please note that Bernice gave us the dimensions of the KYB housings, NOT of the Fiat O.E. rebuilable housings. Nobody yet has come forward with these dimensions, so I aquired a pair to see for myself. Unlike the KYB housings, they are expanded for a couple of inches at the top, so I had to saw one apart. They are about 40.3mm I.D., 44.7mm O.D.. Pretty much the same as the KYB housings. Alas, also too small for the Tokico or Sachs VW inserts. "Strike two". But of course the Bilstein VW inserts can be made to fit. This does require, however, as Paul and others have found out, some lathe work on the top nuts and some spacers made.

Apparantly, the KYB inserts for a VW Rabbit will also fit in the Fiat housings. Again, lathe work also required. An archives search revealed that someone here (I think it was Ulix) found out - from KYB - that the Rabbit KYB inserts are actually valved far weaker than the X1/9 KYB complete struts (that are still available), so this would certainly seem to be a useless alternative ! I think KYB used to make an AGX adjustable insert for the Rabbit, but I do not know the size and from what I can gather they seem to be NLA.

Direct bolt-in replacement cartridges for the early X housings seem to be pretty much non-existant. There were, back in the day, some stock-type cartridges available from Gabriel, Munroe, and such, but even if you could still find some, they would probably be inferior to the current KYB assemblies.

A company called Carrera used to - many years ago - make a performance insert for the X housings, but good luck finding some now.

Koni used to make a cartridge for the X1/9, but these have been discontinued for at least 20 years. Even if you are lucky enough to find some NOS ones, I wouldn't bother. From my experience, new Koni's that have been sittig on a shelf for years suffer from dried-out seals and they fail within a few miles of use.

So to conclude - direct fit performance cartridges for the early X1/9 housings - ZILCH.

Performance cartridges that can (with a bunch of machining) be persuaded to fit in the early X housings - so far - just the VW Rabbit Bilsteins - available in regular, sport, and HD flavours - or can (at considerable expense) be re-valved by Bilstein to suit your needs. To repeat, the Tokico or Sachs inserts for the same VW Rabbit are TOO BIG for the X1/9 housings. The only unknown here is the VW Koni's (availble in HD or Sport Yellows), but I highly suspect that they as well are too large in diameter to fit the X housings. If someone out there knows, kindly let us know.

Bernice seems to have checked out possibilities as well, with little success.

For the majority of X1/9 owners out there, the answer is simple. Buy the complete KYB struts. They are still readily available from many places on the net, are reasonably priced (about $80 each), are gas filled, seem to offer better performance than the stock shocks, and still maintain a decent ride. Unless you are running really stiff springs, they work just fine. As Bernice has shown us, they do come apart easily, so if you want to move the mounting tabs or convert them to coilovers, it can be done. Or add a set of performance springs from IAP or Vicks or Obert or Midwest or cut down some stock springs, and you will probably be very happy.

But... there are those among us who feel that this is not good enough. And want something better. And not only that, want it cheap too !!

Several here have gone for the KSport complete assemblies. Also seem to sold under the the names of D2 and XYZ, etc.. While reasonably priced, to me they have a number of drawbacks. Out of respect for those who have bought them, I will not list them, but...

By all accounts, GForce make an excellent set-up for the X, but I think they are more suitable for track use than for street, and at close to $3k are a little much for many owners pockets.

Obliviously having faced the same problem of available inserts to fit the stock X housings, Mark Plaia, in conjunction with Chris Obert, designed, and built - from scratch - new housings that would accept VW Rabbit Tokicos or Koni's, and came with threaded seats to accept standard 2 1/2" racing springs. Now I can tell you that designing and having built anything from scratch in very small quantities is a very expensive proposition and is invariably reflected in the price. They are a thing of beauty, but from what I can gather, none of these are currently available for sale and a pre-order of minimum 10 complete sets is required before another batch will be made. Strangely enough, the listing on Obert's website says that these are designed to accept VW Rabbit REAR inserts, not front. I think this is a typo - I dont think Rabbits even used a rear insert. Now none of the above is meant to be a knock against this excellent product. If Mark or Chris is reading this and take it that way, then I apologize. But if a product is not currently available, then at least I think exploring other options is in order. Okay guys ?

Now most of this rambling would be of little point if I didn't have a solution. I have done a lot of searching and have given this a great deal of thought. I have concluded, like Mark, that the best solution is to devise a housing that will accept ANY VW Rabbit insert - Bilstein, Koni red or yellow, Tokico, Sachs, etc.. All readily available. But I know that each of the above shocks have slightly different sizes and shapes on the tops of the inserts, so a housing and top nut designed for one will not neccessarily fit other. But... what they all do have in common is that they all come with hardware to fit the VW O.E. housing.

So, I figured, the oblivious solution is.... to use the stock VW housing. Ah, but you you say, the VW housing does NOT bolt onto the X1/9 hub, and the spring perch is the wrong size and in the wrong position. You are, of course, correct. So this looked like another dead end ... until I got to thinking some more.

Now my original intention was to use the Tokico inserts in the early Fiat housings ... until I discovered it was too large to fit !! I was planning to remove the spring perch (to convert to coilovers) and remove and re-position the mounting bracket higher up (to lower the car and still retain suspension travel).

So I bought a pair of good used VW Rabbit strut housings and figured it would be the same amount of work to strip them of their spring perch and mounting brackets, but...

1) I had to buy the VW housings. An added expense.

2) The mounting bracket is a sleeve type arrangement just like the Fiat, except where Fiat just weld it around it the bottom of the the sleeve only, those darned Germans welded it everywhere - top and bottom. And the VW spring perch has at least twice as much weld - top and bottom again, as the FIat.

3) The mounting bracket/sleeve is totally different and cannot be modified to use on the X.

My solutions:

1) Luckily the VW housings seem to be quite easily gotten. Over on the VW forums the going price seems to be $10-20 each for good ones. So no big deal

2) This was of course the major concern. My buddy Bruce the machinist figured if I could somehow hack off most of protuding bits he could - like Bernice did - chuck it in his lathe and remove everything else. He would first have had to machine an end plug for the bottom end of the strut to be able to put it on the lathe. He said, for a price, it was do-able.
But this seemed too easy for me. I really wanted to be able to do it myself. And besides, I'm cheap ! Although I am amazed at the amount of members here who have lathes in their basements, I began to think of a solution that ANYONE here could duplicate. I first imagined hacksaws and dremels. Nope. Bench grinder? Nope. Hmm... And then, with a hint from Bruce, I arrived at the solution. And I'm happy to report - it works. Easily. About 1/2 hour per strut. The end result was proper and beautiful. Something anyone out there can do easily in your garage. And how you ask ? Well... that will all be revealed in another post. Stay tuned. I'd post it now but I don't have a digital camera at this time.

3) Well this too was a problem. Easy solution - just use the original X1/9 bracket. It was simple - I will show you how later. This means sacrificing an old old X1/9 strut, but even an old dead/leaking sealed strut can be used here. If you don't have any dead struts lying around, I'm sure other members here do - just post a wanted ad here. At worst, Midwest sells dead early struts or housings for like $20 each, so no big deal.

I have found some coilover sleeves and kits just that right size and length. Uses standard 2 1/2" racing springs. Pick your own rate.

Another benefit of using the VW housings is that they are quite strong and sturdy. About 3mm thickness of good German steel. The original Fiat housings are only about 2mm thick, and according to one search are quite prone to bending. Sure enough, when we chucked one of my used Fiat O.E. housings in the lathe as an experiment, it was clearly bent !! There is no way one of the VW housings would ever bend.

So far, my costs are quite minimal. I scored 2 new Tokico Illuminas and 2 good used VW housings for $120 total over on one of the VW forums. A couple of dead X1/9 housings for $20 each. About $20 in supplies from Home Depot. The coilover kits are about $35 each. Springs will be about $40 each. You do the math.And an evenings worth of toil - well maybe two after priming and painting.

Interested ? Should I bother to post methods and pics ? Or have I ruffled too many feathers already ? Up to you folks. Any interest out there ?

I at least hope that some of my findings are of some use to someone out there, and perhaps leads to further discussions and sharing of info and ideas. I think we all like to learn stuff. I know I do.

Cheers, Doug
 
I read your entire post and I'm interested in learning more. Please post pics and updates of the entire process.
 
Interested ? Should I bother to post methods and pics ?


:hmm:

What kind of a question is that???


Don`t keep us hanging like this....its torture!!! :)

Please post the pics and methods, I`m sure I`m not the only one watching this thread with interest!!!

Cheers,

Ross
 
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