1600 Stroker motor build....

Engine assembly is going great. The most fun you can have without breaking the law :).

Progress pics:




'PeteX1/9
 
not to highjack your thread...

but what engines 67.4mm crank comes from besides Fiat Punto Gt?
Or perhaps you can post a part number of the crank?

Steve C can chime in here, please?
I am in Europe right now and can score one for cheap, but need to know what to look for.

Thanks,
 
Pete, your build is looking like a million bucks! Best of luck:)

PS: One minor thing I noticed in the pix, you might want to check the position of the heater elbow at the right rear of the head, since these are a bitch to adjust once in the car.

It looks like it's pointing a bit down. Most I've seen are either level (3 o'clock) or point up a little (2 o'clock).
 
Looking Good!

Thanks for all the pics - yesterday I was looking at that standoff bolt (that goes on the head) & wondering where the heck it came from :rolleyes:
 
WOW Pete! Looking good... Ya know...

If you want it timed properly you oughtta just ship it down here for a few weeks or so and I'll set it all up for ya... No charge!

HA!

I like the limited color theme as well... bits of BLACK are a given, the "SILVER" or "ALUMINUM" is great with a few RED accents. Looks PURPOSEFUL! Love it!
 
Thanks for all compliments guys! The block is fully assembled but the top half was more of a mock up just to ensure that I hadn't misplaced anything over the past months. On with the final assembly.


'PeteX1/9
 
Engine is almost fully assembled so now is where I have to enter uncharted waters before re-installing it into the car. Not sure if anyone has ever written up a "first start-up preparation" thread as it would definitely be a real asset in the "best of' section.

From what I've read regarding domestic vehicles, I need to get the oil pressure up to operating pressure. I've read that this can be done using an oil pressure priming tool. It can be done by filling the oil pump prior to install, the oil filter and then after engine install and everything is connected, removing the spark plugs and the HT coil lead and cranking the engine over until adequate oil pressure is reached.

Any thoughts or suggestions and will any of these methods work for our X's.

'PeteX1/9
 
Just unplug the coil & crank the motor until the idiot light goes out. Standard procedure even for oil changes on turbo Volvos.

Prefilling the oil filter helps on cars where the filter is bottom mounted, not so much on our X's.
 
Would I keep the electric fuel pump turned off while the oil pressure is building up and then run the fuel pump and all electrics for the actual first start-up? So no need to remove the spark plugs when building up the oil pressure as it would crank over easier.

'PeteX1/9
 
petex19 said:
Would I keep the electric fuel pump turned off while the oil pressure is building up and then run the fuel pump and all electrics for the actual first start-up? So no need to remove the spark plugs when building up the oil pressure as it would crank over easier.

'PeteX1/9
Click to expand...

With the coil disconnected, there should be no power to the fuel pump, the ign pulse is required, unless I'm mixing up my fuel systems. Can just unplug the pump or pull the fuel system relay otherwise.

No reason to have the motor crank faster by removing plugs, it will turn over fast enough to build pressure as it is. As long as your battery is in good shape, cranking for a couple of minutes to build OP isn't going to hurt it.

Once the oil pressure is there, just fire it up! :nod:
 
Thanks for the kind words. I wouldn't be able to do this build if it wasn't for all the amazing assistance from our members. :clap:

'PeteX1/9
 
I wouldn't crank it for a couple of minutes though. You should be able to get oil pressure (light goes out) in about 10 seconds or so, and you shouldn't crank the starter for more than that without a minute or so of rest. Removing the plugs will make the starter's work easier for sure.

Another way is to turn the aux shaft with a drill with the timing belt off, then reinstall after you see oil in the cam gallery.
 
Can you explain the drill method in more detail. I've seen this done in videos with American engines but places like Summit racing sell special priming tools to adapt to their distributors. :( I have a few spare distributors so would I just need to cut the shaft off the spare distributor and put it into my cordless drill and slowly build up the oil pressure? I also have an oil pressure gauge in the car but if I can do it with a drill then should I do it while the engine is still on the engine stand.

Or....do you mean turning the auxiliary shaft pulley with a drill and build up the oil pressure that way.

'PeteX1/9
 
budgetzagato said:
I wouldn't crank it for a couple of minutes though. You should be able to get oil pressure (light goes out) in about 10 seconds or so, and you shouldn't crank the starter for more than that without a minute or so
Click to expand...

Perhaps I shouldn't have said 2 mins, I wasn't being literal. However, 10 seconds on a bone dry motor is not going to build oil pressure throughout the motor - or have you personally found that to be true from experience? Cranking a starter for 30seconds at a clip is reasonable unless the Marelli unit is prone to overheating?
 
Drill on aux shaft...

I used a drill with socket on the aux shaft pulley to build oil pressure on a resurrection (not a fresh rebuild) years ago. I was being super careful though. I think pulling the plugs and cranking it will suffice. Using the drill method I could feel the pump prime, and just stopped after the oil had made it to the cam gallery. This was on a TC Fiat engine with belt removed and then reinstalled.

The SOHC should work the same, but again using the starter judiciously should be fine.

Hussein, you can see how quickly oil pressure builds by cranking your engine with the ignition disabled. The oil pressure warning light goes out fairly quickly. Once there's oil up top in the cam gallery the oil circuit is full.
 
Remember that the aux shaft...

budgetzagato said:
I used a drill with socket on the aux shaft pulley to build oil pressure on a resurrection (not a fresh rebuild) years ago. I was being super careful though. I think pulling the plugs and cranking it will suffice. Using the drill method I could feel the pump prime, and just stopped after the oil had made it to the cam gallery. This was on a TC Fiat engine with belt removed and then reinstalled.

The SOHC should work the same, but again using the starter judiciously should be fine.

Hussein, you can see how quickly oil pressure builds by cranking your engine with the ignition disabled. The oil pressure warning light goes out fairly quickly. Once there's oil up top in the cam gallery the oil circuit is full.
Click to expand...

Drives the dizzy, and so you must reposition the shaft to the proper distributor position before re-installing the belt.

But if the engine builder used assembly lube, this is all moot and unnecessary IMO. Just spin it with the starter until pressure shows on the gauge and oil is present in the cam area.

Pete
 
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