replacing clutch lever

jvandyke

jvandyke

True Classic
From this thread

Got new lever and fork, can't "see" any noticeable twist between the old and new but I had to cut the old off so hard to tell.
Anyone see any blatant red flags with this set up? Wrong TO bearing? (same as the one that was in there before). I'm just expecting to bolt it all back up and have the same issue.

file_zpse3bb8716.jpg


video
http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/javandyke1/media/Fiat/file_zps92e97ed5.mp4.html
 
I dunno Jeff, what brand if T/O is that? It has no retainer clips the keep it on the fork, and it looks like it's not riding all the way in on the fork pivot area. Look again at Dans pics in your other thread, you can see what I mean, can't readily link it from my phone
 
Bearing doesn't look like it's sitting back far enough to me...and no retaining clips as Hussein said, although the bearing doesn't look like it has provision for them.

Jeff, try actuating the fork forward, and then install the bearing... the little tang on the top arm should hook around the clutch fork, and then when you move the armback to rest position, the bearing will slide back on the shaft... the bearing should move back and forth 'captured' by the arm.

Looks like you may have had the TO bearing incorrectly installed rather than a bent/twisted shaft if that's how the old one was mounted

SteveC
 
I think I have it right, there's not too many ways to put it on, in shot of the old bearing laying in the bell housing you can see that one end has a "tab" that holds onto the top fork, wraps around the back, the bottom doesn't, this is a SACHS set. I know some bearings have clips, other's not
 
If you flip it 180, does it fit in against the ridge? Does the retaining tang work, since it doesn't pivot like the spring clip would...
 
check Hussein's pic from your other thread on the first page... see how far back the bearing sits...

a tiny bit of HT grease on the back of the bearing where the actuation arm rides, as well as a tiny bit of HT grease on the shaft and splines is a good thing too, for nice smooth clutch operation

SteveC
 
I'm holding off on this job until I can confirm this bearing is kosher. Something is/has been throwing off my geometry and I'd just as soon fix it. I always had a ton of play before the clutch lever starts to contact the pressure plate, starting think it's this style TO. I'll look into just getting one of the pin versions and compare.
 
I have never touched the throwout bearing on my X, but from your first photo, it looks like the throwout bearing would fit better on the fork if you rotate the bearing 180°. Or maybe not.
 
okay, I'll try to flip it "upside down" although I can't see how it would make a difference, I usually don't though!
 
Release bearing is upside down. It will not fully seat in this position and will cause the clutch to stay in the released position.

Reverse it top to bottom and make sure the bearing with the release fork sits flat against the removable stub sleeve on the input shaft.

Check to see if the two clips in the ends are properly seated behind the release fork top and bottom.

Lube the areas where the release bearing contacts the release fork and stub sleeve on the gear box.

Bernice

jvandyke said:
okay, I'll try to flip it "upside down" although I can't see how it would make a difference, I usually don't though!
Click to expand...
 
Okay, thanks, that would be ASSUME if all this time the throw out was upside down. This is the non clip style though. This is the style the PO installed, I re-installed, have run 30,000 mile like this, albeit with screwed up clutch lever geometry. I can't see how the would effect "lateral travel" though, but who knows, not me obviously.
 
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I'm surprised the clutch worked at all with the release bearing upside down. The geometry would be out -a - whack and the pedal feel and clutch height would have been weird.

Bernice


jvandyke said:
Okay, thanks, that would ASSUME if all this time the throw out was upside down. This is the non clip style though. This is the style the PO installed, I re-installed, have run 30,000 mile like this, albeit with screwed up clutch lever geometry. I can't see how the would effect "lateral travel" though, but who knows, not me obviously.
Click to expand...
 
Rupunzell said:
...The geometry would be out -a - whack and the pedal feel and clutch height would have been weird.

Bernice
Click to expand...

It is and it was. Although it worked fine, it's all I've ever known. I will go home and flip it over, perhaps take some measurements if possible.

Later that day, it was upside down. How do I know for sure? How about the word "TOP" thoughtfully inscribed on one end? No kidding. Even so, it works the same as far as I can tell, and seems to rest and extend the exact same amount, again as far as I can tell, which, apparently isn't much since I missed the word "TOP" repeatedly. Aren't I cute?
file_zps42bb1de5.jpg
 
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jvandyke said:
Even so, it works the same as far as I can tell, and seems to rest and extend the exact same amount, again as far as I can tell, which, apparently isn't much since I missed the word "TOP" repeatedly. Aren't I cute?
file_zps42bb1de5.jpg
Click to expand...

file_zpse3bb8716.jpg


Now you can see the offset of the T/O pivot plates looks better aligned with the centerline of the input shaft & T/O sleeve - that will definitely impact the lever/pivot action
 
well, good fix then (if indeed that's it) and pretty dang funny, hey, if we can't laugh at ourselves…glad I asked
Sometimes it's okay to swallow some pride, risk looking stupid and get some help. I'd rather look stupid and get it fixed then be prideful with a busted car.:doh:
I won't know if it helped or not for a bit, I loaned out my engine hoist and can't reattach my gearbox without it, even with the rope method and a son taking some weight, I was dying trying to get that stupid output flange around the flywheel. I need to work on my technique refitting the gearbox that's for sure.
TOP, that's a riot.
That'll teach me to assume the PO had it on correctly and simply copy him. I need a beer now.
BTW, that's not the stupidest thing I've done either!
 
You live and learn Jeff, you live and learn...

+1 on the beer, you deserve it for admitting the mistake :thumbsup:

SteveC
 
Since the box is still out, why not collect some data with the TO bearing installed as before, and the TO bearing installed with the TOP up? You would be measuring the travel of the TO bearing along the tube it slides on, in relation to say 7 to 10 waypoints along the arc of travel of the clutch operating arm. What we would expect and hope to see is that at each given waypoint of clutch operating arm tavel, the TO bearing travels farther along the tube when it is oriented right side up vs upside down.


As far as installing the trans, I remember the last time you struggled with this. If you have a slide hammer, bolt it up to the flange and pop the stub axle out, easy peazy.

If no proper slide hammer, I have seen them in the loaner tool section of the parts stores.
 
When All Else Fails.....

...Read The Instructions:thumbsup::innocent::happy:

I'm with you, from the pix I can't see how this will make a difference, but I'm sure if it does somehow make the clutch work better, you'll be a happy camper!


Here's another example of a product that needs to be installed according to the instructions on the product:

US_M18a1_claymore_mine.jpg
 
Good stuff.
I measured from a few spots and got the same results with bearing flipped either way, seems to ride up and down the shaft just fine either way, obviously it matters or they (whoever "they" are) wouldn't have made it asymmetrical and marked it "top", right?
 
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