Willy... a couple of things... I believe Bob Brown...
PIONEERED the use of LED Headlights on his Queen many moons ago. At the time, I believe the PAIR ran close to $575.00 and he had also installed his "insert-able" no-cut, HRM beforehand by years.
Here is an example:
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/47876/?gclid=CI_hqcmqosgCFcOBfgodj28CFQ
They were BRIGHT to say the least... and and others that have installed the H4 Halogen lamps were happy as well for about $80 bucks.
Here is a good example:
http://www.carid.com/autoloc/7-halo...lenb1ab.html?gclid=CKrykqaqosgCFUdqfgodGckM3w
IN ANY CASE... the HRM is NECESSARY to supply a clean 12+ volts to the lamps. As I said earlier... measure your voltage NOW and you will have between 10.5 and 11 volts! No good!
And... a 65 amp Alternator means it has the capability to deliver MORE amperage if the DEMAND requires it, let us say, over a 50 amp Alternator. But it has NOTHING to do with the VOLTAGE available AT the lamp connector. This where the relay comes in triggered by the original voltage and switching a clean source for power directly from the battery to the lamps.
Hopefully I have explained this well... Common back if there are any further questions.
Oh... and B Brown build some beautiful, EXCEPTIONALLY HIGH QUALITY plug-in HRMS but I have no idea if he has any left.
IMHO... the ones sold on Ebay are quite sufficient and are LESS expensive than you can build them yourself. Some mods would need to be done, but the parts, being the terminals, fuses, relays and connectors... and most of the wiring is good to go.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-...DLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807
IMHO... and frugal-ness... I would FIRST insert the HRM with the standard incandescent lamps. Do ONE lamp and leave one stock... and COMPARE them against a wall or garage door. If they are NOT bright enough, step up to the Halogens... and if those aren't bright enough... save your pennies to purchase the LEDs.
Have fun!