Need advise on front end alignment/strut issue

[tomnj]

Over the weekend I installed a set of X 1/9 rear struts/springs in the front of my 128 (to lower it). I took apart a set of original X spring assemblies (including the strut) and compared it to my 128 assembly. The only part I used from the entire original 128 assembly was the top mount (the part with the rubber bushing and 3 studs that mounts to the car's strut tower). See the picture with the original parts, I used none of these. This appears to be correct, but after I installed it, the front end alignment is really out (was perfect before). The alignment is so far off that you can see the wheels are on a slight angle and they appeared to change after I drove the car! Now they seem to have "settled" into their new position.

My question is, is this normal after a strut/spring change and I just need to get an alignment? Or does the fact that the alignment moving during the first drive indicate a "sloppiness" in the assembly and the need to add some reinforcement parts (like plaia strut bearings that I am told helps the steering)?

Finally, as you can see from the photo's, the front tires are pointing slightly outward at the top while the rears (after lowering it with lowering spacers) are pointing slightly inward at the top. Is there any way I can adjust this myself or does an alignment shop need to do this? Am I going to be laughed at by a "chain alignment shop" bringing a 37 year old "foreign job" to them or do need to find someone whom specifically works on older cars?

 

[EricH]

Alignment shop

Is there any way I can adjust this myself or does an alignment shop need to do this? Am I going to be laughed at by a "chain alignment shop" bringing a 37 year old "foreign job" to them or do need to find someone whom specifically works on older cars?

You've changed the suspension geometry, so the alignment changes.... That's why the alignment is adjustable. There are threaded rods that adjust the wheels in and out.

Whatever you do, don't bring it to a chain alignment shop. If you want to hire the job out, look for the the tire and suspension shop in your area that has been in business for the longest. Find the oldest non-chain auto parts store in your area, and ask the oldest guy behind the counter who he'd recommend. Ask independent mechanics, the guys who run real old-fashioned service stations from the days before every convenience store had a gas pump, for recommendations. You'll end up with someone who will do a better job for less, and you'll meet some interesting people on the way.

Or you can do it yourself. Many posters here have had good experiences and can tell you about the "string method".

 

[jvandyke]

String method is super easy (I did for the first time a few weeks ago, if I can do it, you can do it) and all you would usually need but that sure looks like too much camber to me (on the rear). You'll need shims or other parts to fix that I think.

 

[tomnj]

I might try the string method. I'm just not sure what bolts adjust tow and camber.. does anyone know of a resource online for pictures of what to adjust?

 

[karhawk]

We did the same thing on my daughters 128 SL
Take it to an alignment shop, set the toe to factory specs and have them keep some negative camber in the front and rear. Any good tire and alignment shop can do the work for less then $120

 

[jvandyke]

I might try the string method. I'm just not sure what bolts adjust tow and camber.. does anyone know of a resource online for pictures of what to adjust?

Toe is easy (on an X) just crack loose the jam nut and turn the rod in or out, retighten the jam nut. Camber I understand is harder to adjust and needs custom parts or shims or something. Camber isn't really set up to be adjustable (on an X). Good struts and mounts and camber should be correct. But you mixed parts of an X and 128 so then, I don't know.