Looking for bigfoot (strut tower braces)

Kevin Cozzo

Kevin Cozzo

True Classic
noticed a crack developing between the strut bolt holes- not good..would like to acquire some of those strut tower reinforcement plates if someone has a spare set, before I try to fabricate something...If not available, maybe someone could send me a pattern, and thickness info? Any help is appreciated
 
Kevin, I would be interested to see what you come up with if you decide to make your own. It's something I've had in the back of my mind to do someday. One thought is to make reinforcement plates that bolt on top of the towers instead of under them. Granted being under provides better surface area of contact. But it would be easier to make something to fit on top. I'm thinking a thicker material in a ring shape, like the base mounts for typical "strut tower braces". I'm not saying the X necessarily needs such bracing, but if you were to add it then the mounting plates would also reinforce the tops of the towers. Add a couple extra bolts to help distribute the load around the ring.

whiteline_strut_tower_braces_clamp.jpg
FR3Z-16A052-BL_inst_01.jpg XC90_front_strut_brace__31975.1297571600.500.750.jpg
 
Me thinks it does indeed need reinforcement from underneath...I know all 4 corners of mine have had cracks from the bolt holes to the center hole, and the tower tops are all slightly bulging upward...might not hurt to go from above, but I think the most good would be to spread the weight on top of a plate...kinda like framing a wall, the top plate sits on top of the studs. Many years ago, the couple that run Shadetree enginetrics down here in Tex warned me about cracking strut towers from continuous hard driving on worn out shocks, or heavily modified suspensions. I see Chris O has them
 
After what is probably hundreds of these cars coming thru the shop, experience tells me to say just use the Bigfoot reinforcement plates. After you beat the top of the tower back into shape (per suggestions from Steve Holesher, Mark Plaia, and myself) I would weld up the cracks.
And your done.

A good time to install other Plaia suspension upgrades...
 
yeah, already got me some pivots...be ordering the plates soon...thought they were like hens teeth, or unobatanium, but obviously you have them...not looking forward to having to realign...ugh
 
Chris Obert said:
After you beat the top of the tower back into shape (per suggestions from Steve Holesher, Mark Plaia, and myself) I would weld up the cracks.
Click to expand...

@Chris Obert and/or @Steve Hoelscher - I did buy the Bigfoot plates, but do not remember the instructions on beating them back into place. Is there a reference plane I should look at? Would love to check out these suggestions. I was considering cutting out a large 3/8" plate that would serve as a backing then pounding from the top. I tried with my body hammer and dolly but wasn't sure if there is supposed to be a slight dome to it or not (1976 model year BTW).

Alternatively, I was considering TWO heavy plates and a crap load of C-clamps to coax it back into shape.

Thanks.
 
Kevin Cozzo said:
yeah, already got me some pivots...be ordering the plates soon...thought they were like hens teeth, or unobatanium, but obviously you have them...not looking forward to having to realign...ugh
Click to expand...

Kevin, I have plenty of 1/4" steel, a plasma cutter, Bridgeport and welders, those plates could be basically free... just sayin.

Pete
 
The only thing I keep debating on the plates mounted under the towers is the added thickness increasing the ride height even more than it already is. Not that .25" will be significant, but it all matters. However I completely agree locating them there is better than on top. Although on top will work if the four corners are secured to the towers, or the plates are welded to them, as well. Between this attachment and the 3 bolts on the upper mounts (sandwiching the tower) it will distribute the load across the surface. For under side mounting, perhaps a stronger material than plain steel in a thinner dimension - which I think is what the Big Foots are (SS)? Just throwing out thoughts.

Pete, curious - is it a hand held plasma cutter or a programmable (X-Y) bed type? I've seen some intended for hobby use that are relatively more affordable.
 
A plasma cutter and a mill are the two most useful items lacking in my shop. Especially the mill I'd like to have. But with my situation being rather temporary I'll have to relocate everything again, so no more large equipment for now.
 
To flatten out the towers use a block of dense wood, or something like nylon or delrin. The block should be large enough to span the width of the turret beside the inner rolled lip. Place the block atop the turret and gently hammer the block to drive the tower back into position. Work gradually shifting the block's position to maintain an even progression.

Use a straight edge across the flat of the turret to gauge your work. It doesn't take much.
 
Steve or others: has anyone actually put eyes on a virgin and undamaged factory shock turret? Is the top flat in a level plane or does it slant to any given side slightly?
 
Cracks developing at the bolt holes are likely due to the sharp edge from the hole punching process when this part was made. Over time from load cycles and more, the once microscopic crack grew into what they are now. The cure is to deburr these hole edges and ANY sharp edge. This can and will reduce the possibility of cracks developing. Alternatively, peed both inside edges of the hole with a ball ended punch (can be made by braze or welding a ball bearing on to a steel rod). This effectively compacts the material reducing the possibility of crack propagation.

And no, adding material under the guise of "reinforcement" might not cure the problem.


Bernice

Kevin Cozzo said:
noticed a crack developing between the strut bolt holes- not good..would like to acquire some of those strut tower reinforcement plates if someone has a spare set, before I try to fabricate something...If not available, maybe someone could send me a pattern, and thickness info? Any help is appreciated
Click to expand...
 
Coupefan said:
Steve or others: has anyone actually put eyes on a virgin and undamaged factory shock turret? Is the top flat in a level plane or does it slant to any given side slightly?
Click to expand...

The turret tops were originally flat.

The 1300 tops would crack but I rarely see 1500s do so. The 1300's larger hole and smaller lip are not as strong and more easily mushroomed.

The mushroomed strut turrets are almost always the results of bottoming and are typically the reason for cracking.

For repairs I would flatten the turret and if cracked, drill the end of the crack before welding it up and grinding it flat again. If you don't bottom out the strut its unlikely to mushroom again.
 
Wow, this turned into quite a discussion
Pete- thanks for the offer, but there is that scale of "doing it myself for cheaper" and "paying for the convenience" ...right now, I'm dealing with a paint failure, considering replacing the windshield, and putting together a dual carb setup....I think it might be worth the 90 bucks right now, as time is money, lol...again thank you
Dr Jeff...My car rides very low, almost too low, I can afford the 1/4"...also, I think there has been a discussion about strut reinforcements that many of the ricers use, if I remember, I think due to the design of our cars, we don't get as much flex...If I was racing it, I might actually consider those, especially in the front, where I could see hard cornering might cause an issue. Kinda like the same reason for using a front sway bar on the X...( and oh yeah, just got one of those also recently...got to put it on...just ain't got enough time!!)
everyone else- thanks for repair tips, even tho, I think the plates themselves will probably help just by themselves, I'm probably going to pound them down some, and weld the cracks...I did one like this years ago, then welded a fender washer over the hole for reinforcement
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top