1600 Stroker motor build....

Thanks buddy!
It was as uneventful as I could have hoped for, but there was the odd coolant drip from a couple of the new hoses which just needed to be tightened further. I guess it should be expected with the expanding and contracting of things being heated up for the first time. The only thing that is really worth discussing is the fact that my timing belt went from being pushed back to the inside belt guard on my "Miller's mule" adjustable cam pulley to being flush with the outer edge. It didn't move any further then the outer edge but I would probably be more comfortable if it were sitting in the middle???

I'll take a (post startup)pic. tonight and post it but hopefully others that have the same pulley can share their experience.

Pic. of how it was installed (pre-startup)


'PeteX1/9
 
Got around to taking pics. of my possible wandering timing belt?
I'm guessing that it's probably in the right position now along the outer edge, but still gave me a cause for concern when it moved from the inner edge.

Installed t-belt pressed up against inner belt guard.






After first engine run.






'PeteX1/9
 
I don't know anything about the belt position on the pulley

But I love your engine, especially the fuel lines and fittings.

Again, very nicely done and congrats on the successful first run!
 
If the belt is fully on the cam and aux pullies, I wouldn't worry about it being at the outer/inner/middle, it's still fully on either way and gripping across the full width of the belt.

oil being like blonde beer and making pretty patterns with a magnet to me means that the block wasnt cleaned very well before assembly. If your oil came out nice and clean (apart from the darker colour due to the moly lube for cam etc) then that's a good thing, and you could have gone the 500km with that oil, but another fresh batch of the same oil and additive for the break in drive can't hurt...in the overall scheme of things the extra cost of another 5 litres of oil isn't really that much is it.

Personally I get very anal about cleaning the block and especially the bores before reassembly... I use clean engine oil and wipe the bores with a white cotton rag, until all I get is clean oil on the rag... the oil will lift all the machining debris out of the pores of the cast iron block... and you can really see it on a white rag, even after the block has been 'cleaned' with a solvent/petrol... that's what all the irredescent look to the oil would have been, tiny particles of machining debris...

SteveC
 
So Pete, surely it has started to thaw out up north by now??

Have you got anymore updates?

I'm keen to see what sort of result you have ended up with (as I'm sure are many other readers)

SteveC
 
Well actually sadly today was the first day that hit 2 degrees above zero celcius and their is still about 4 feet of snow outside my door. I ran the motor twice up to temp. varying the rpms to get all the fluids cycled and check for leaks and have changed the oil once. It seems as though spring may actually be around the corner as it is calling for a stretch of days above zero. I'm also dying to drive it and properly break it in. I can say that it fires right up and sounds incredible. I'm also in the final phase of installing an all stainless exhaust system that I purchased from Tim Hoover (Fiatmonkey) which should sound very nice. I also just bought a infrared thermometer so I can measure my header temps on each tube and compare it to stock as I had my PBS header Jet-Hot ceramic coated inside and out to reduce the temperature.

How about your stroker build Steve, how is it coming along?

'PeteX1/9
 
Wow, I thought mid way thru march you would have been warmer than that... today it's a sunny 32 degrees celcius here in Boddington.

The RPFCC with the nephews has been getting the time and money spent on it recently ...just bought a set of Koni adjustables from Matt for that project so this months budget is blown!!

It will be 1500 to start with and the 1600 is a development motor for that and my other race car project, so it's non urgent. Cylinder head is needing guides fitted and seats cut next, porting is done, then onto the flow bench to see what sort of result I got.

SteveC
 
This years winter is one for the record books for sure. I've owned my X for 21 years and have put it on the road for April 1st every single year. I mean by April 1st their has been no sign of snow and the temperature outside is in the teens celcius above zero on a cool day with all the roads washed and clean of any sand. We just got 25cm of snow this past Friday on top of the already four feet that was already there. Two nights ago it was still -24'C at night.:mad:

May 1st is going to be my target for having my X on the road to stay for this year.

Good Luck with all your projects. I think I can speak for a lot of us when I say that we are looking forward to your progress reports to see what else we can learn.

'PeteX1/9
 
Finishing up all the little left behind projects since my motor build.

Installed my new gorgeous aluminum radiator and it fits and looks incredible.




Finally finished fabricating and installing the stainless exhaust to go with the stainless muffler I bought from "fiatmonkey" on Xweb.










I just need to get my valence painted and cut out the exhaust holes in my rear grille using my cardboard template.







Now hopefully the weather will continue to get nicer and I can finally drive it and break-in the new engine.

'PeteX1/9
 
Looking Good

Looking Good Pete,
I'm sure the excitement is killing you with the weather not cooperating. Enjoy. The stroker is going to be a huge improvement.
 
WOW!... But what a shame you haveta drop...

that radiator again to CLEAN UP THE FANS... Pete!

GEEZ!

The rest of the bottom end is gorgeous!

Maybe you just oughtta send the fans to TOON and have them plated! They can chrome plastics as well, ya know!

HA!
 
Adjustable cam pulley advice for stroker build

Almost a full year later and I'm pleased to say that my stroker build is complete and I couldn't be happier :)
Now I just want to play with my Miller's mule adjustable pulley to find the most power I can.

I don't have any experience with adjusting them nor do I have access to a dyno. Just seat of the pants feel I guess.

Judging from the photos I'm posting my machinist just left the adjustable pulley at 0' with neither advance or retard. Unfortunately Miller's pulley doesn't have the increments indicated but unless I'm mistaken the full adjustment is two teeth or 16degrees. So I guess that means I can go up to 8degrees of advance or retard. I just want to try 2degrees each way and see if I notice any difference.

I'm running a delta A-16 camshaft from Midwest.
Duration: 240 degrees duration (intake / exhaust) * .050 lift
40-80 / 80-40 (seat-to-seat)
Lift: 10.1mm (.398") maximum lift
Lobe center: 112 degree
Grind A-16
http://www.midwest-bayless.com/stor...l.aspx?sid=1&sfid=208227&c=193056&i=250929213

In the picture you will see that the blue 1300 TDC mark lines up with the adjustment indent and you can see in the bottom of the picture the red 1500 TDC mark.







As the camshaft get advanced and retarded for test runs, is there something specific I should be looking for in the engines behaviour or just more power under my butt?
 
Don't bother retarding it... try 0, 2 and then 4 degrees advanced... do some runs up the steepest straightest hill you can find, record the time to a certain point from rest and note the speed you achieve..do each pass several times to get a repeatable result... it will give you a good indication.

you shouldn't need anymore than 4 degrees advance, usually if you feel it has more to offer after this, it would be time to change the cam for something with more duration.

Do a few 0-60 and 0-100 mph tests on a straight flat piece of road, again several runs to get repeatable results, it would be interesting to see what result you get.

SteveC
 
Peter - how is it going? What did you find with the cam timing?

I'm also curious what sort of timing you are running?
 
Sorry for not reporting my results. I found the most seat of my pants power by feel on the same stretch of road to be with 4 degrees of advance with my Millers mule adjustable cam pulley.

My cam box is shaved and I'm running a delta 40/80 hot street cam. My ignition timing is set at 11' BTDC * 850rpms

The power difference with my 1600 stroker, BVhead, 10.6:1 compression and hot cam is night and day over the BVhead stock compression and mild cam I was running before.

I really do need to post a video as it pulls like a train between 3000 and 6000rpms

Good Luck with all your progress
 
Thanks for the feedback, Pete.

I just have to get some run in miles on mine now that I have a reasonable state of drivability - I am at about 7ºBTDC, more than & it knocks. My cam timing is only 1-2º advanced, so I'll likely bump that up, as I also have the shaved cam box from Bayless.

I must say that even in 'gentle' driving, it does feel much stronger than the old motor - looking forward to romping on it once it's run in :)
 
Fuel rating

Are you running high enough octane fuel to match the increase in CR? Low octane can cause pre-ignition.
 
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