Yes sir!
It is a WEBER 28/30' DHTA CARBURETOR, and according to the shop manual the pump diaphragm is what I am looking for
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1979 Fiat X1/9 Tranny/Electrical Repair
- Thread starter FiatKid
- Start date
It is a WEBER 28/30' DHTA CARBURETOR, and according to the shop manual the pump diaphragm is what I am looking for
That diaphragm looks like the right one to me!
That might just be the way to go, how long would you expect that to take for a newbie such as myself?Best to get a rebuild kit for the carby. If you just replace one part that has died, you will get to do that over and over. All the bits are the same ageAnd a kit will be cheaper than buying one part and then another part etc.
Tom Ginefra
True Classic
Not saying that you couldn't get this from one of our overseas vendors,
But US suppliers would probably be your best bet to get the right rebuild kit, as the DHTA carbs were exclusive to North America. And also the freight should be much less expensive.
Steve Thomas
True Classic
How long is a piece of string? It is a simple job, no fancy tools. Just needs cleanliness and basic care. Not sure if there is a guide but plenty others on here have done it. I have never done this model but Webers in general are easy to work on. Best advice is to really think it through before you start and divide the job into phases. Phase 1 - get if off
Lots of photos from all angles so you can connect it up again easily with no leftovers! Phase 2 - clean it before taking it apart at all [you do not want any dirt inside - zero dirt inside] Phase 3 - take it apart [lots of photos as you go] and clean everything. Phase 4 - install new parts and reassemble. Phase 5 - re-install Think about each phase and the tools, cleaners, nytril gloves, lighting, workspace etc before you start at all. Arrange all that stuff and then do it. How long? I would suggest you assume 4 hours.
Tom Ginefra
True Classic
First... buy a few cans of carb cleaner. If you don't use it all now, you will eventually. If you are going to maintain all the vacuum lines and pollution control hoses... make sure you clearly label which one ones go where. There will be 2 electrical connections (three total connectors) one for the idle stop solenoid and one for the carb cooling fan thermo switch. (Both of which are located on the rear facing side of the carb). Label the wires going to each, disconnect and tuck them out of your way. Tape the top of both barrels to cover them, before you start. You don't want any nuts or schmutz accidentally getting inside. Disconnect both the fuel feed and vent hoses coming from the fuel tank (at the front of top of the carb) and make sure you tape or bungee them higher up than the top of the tank, so no fuel leaks out. Undo the 4 nuts securing the carb to the intake manifold and pull the carb off the car to place it on a clean work surface. The hardest part will likely be disconnecting and fishing the top of the carb off the choke linkage. Patience and a light touch are needed as after you remove the tiny cotter pin, you have to kind of snake the cover around and off the top of the linkage. After that it's pretty straightforward. If you've never taken a carb apart before, this is a great "first lesson" in understanding how they work. Take your time. Keep your work area super clean and free of any extraneous clutter. Other than maybe soaking the carb for while in an appropriate solution, this shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. Depending of course, on how much crud you may find inside the carb, what tools you have, and if everything cleaned up as expected. I have no idea what documentation or manuals you have. Attached is an exploded view of a carb that is essentially the same as a DHTA, labeling all the individual parts (including any that would be in a typical rebuild kit). Ask first, if you don't understand something. Someone will usually be available to respond right away to help out.