RED X19

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•Has anyone cleaned out heavy rust of gas tank from inside? Looking for method easier than to fabricate a new one.

•Saw comments time ago about manual popup lights that it has been done before- would like to see how (can't find that discussion)

• Swapping UT front brakes - what type of flexi pipes You have used - UT or X19?

•If car has sat before for ~15years, is there possibility to avoid renovating brake and clutch cylinders? (All that time fluids was filled)

•Does X19 have kick panels, on sides under dashboard or carpet covers that.

•X19 has 2 speedo cables, will length be enough with just using longer one?

• ..Tony Natoli or lookforJoe (sorry if misspelled) I think had adjusted position of that black wheel in AFM - mine has been opened up and looks adjusted, if I want to go stock - what could be my options?

This is just beginning of questions :D as I am working in my professionaly equipped workshop 24/7. Need to finish it before snow, then fingers will freeze quick.
 
You need both pieces of the speedo cable, or a single longer repalcement one. I have the two piece cable I removed from mine when I converted to electronic speedo. You can have the short piece (or both if needed) free, if you want to pay the shipping.

I repaired it thus:

X19speedoCableEnd.jpg


You should be able to loosen the tension spring to bring the AFM back to stock. You need a pic of a stock setup - changing the tension will typically move the fuel pump trigger contacts also, so you may need to tweak that. Don't remember how the adjustment was done now.

X19AFM.jpg
 
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Rusted gas tank: Acid solution to eat up rust (if bad use muriatic acid, otherwise phosphoric acid), then neutralize (baking soda solution) to stop acid. Depending on how bad the condition of the metal, you can then coat it with a "tank lining" product (like a type of special paint to cover inside).

Sitting for 15 years: Brake fluid absorbs moisture and causes corrosion inside, even when not used and kept full. So VERY likely you need to rebuild all brake system components.

AFM adjustment: The black wheel has a tight spring on it so be careful when you loosen it, you must hold it from spinning. It might be difficult to know where it was from the factory, most do not have any markings. Especially if it has been adjusted by someone else...no way to know what they did. Maybe just try it as is first and see if mixture is too lean or too rich, then adjust accordingly until the mixture is good.

Brake hoses (flexi pipes) for Uno Turbo swap: Look through this discussion, there is some info on them....
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/uno-turbo-front-caliper-install.31249/
 
Thanks for info

I'm in a city right now and would like to buy copper pipes for clutch and brake lines - measured diameters, but not sure, could someone tell me please?
4.75 or 5mm ?
And 7mm for clutch? Or 6.xx?
 
Brakes = 4.75, clutch = 6.35
We know them as 3/16 inch and 1/4 inch, so these metric numbers are just direct conversions from inches, the actual pipes there may be slightly different.
Hope this gets to you in time.
 
Thanks, will know what to buy tomorrow for clutch. at the moment am installing 4.75 pipes for brakes
 
Thanks for info

I'm in a city right now and would like to buy copper pipes for clutch and brake lines - measured diameters, but not sure, could someone tell me please?
4.75 or 5mm ?
And 7mm for clutch? Or 6.xx?
You do not want to use copper for brake or clutch lines. In a car, the copper will work harden and eventually crack. If you want something easier to work with than regular coated steel lines, look for Cunifer. This is an alloy consisting mainly of copper, nickel and iron. It is quite corrosion resistant and easier to bend and form than steel. See this site for details.
 
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I have never installed anything else except copper lines.
:/
Half jobe is done, thanks- I will find out can I buy it or alternatives here.
 
Per the website: http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicopp/ , it states....

"NiCopp® is a nickel-copper alloy brake tubing that meets SAE Standard J1047 and ISO 4038, meeting all international and U.S. requirements for brake tubing."

Copper is not so bad, it is used as a principle element in the alloy for what are often recognized as the best brake tubing available, "NiCopp". I get that is not quite the same as 100% copper but being in Latvia there might not be as many choices as we see here.
 
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Joe, thanks, I have both speedo cables- UT cluster just have click on speedo cable, but X19 has with thread. If it will be necessary- I will try to put that short piece in gearbox end, somehow.

So far interior is nearly assembled. Little fail with that UT cluster - steering wheel covers view of speedo,tach and boost gauges, will modify it later.

Finish comes closer
 
Joe, thanks, I have both speedo cables- UT cluster just have click on speedo cable, but X19 has with thread. If it will be necessary- I will try to put that short piece in gearbox end, somehow.

My speedo was push on - the short cable has the lobster trap clips on it..

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What year is yours?
 
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It’s 1981.
Maybe You have got same great picture for those switches? I would like to avoid ones from UT, they are absolutely different design..
 
All those cut wires...how fun. I'm not sure if it will help but there is a Fiat manual that focuses on the electrical system for 1980-1981 X's. To me it is a bit difficult to use because the photos are very poor and the diagrams are broken up making them hard to follow. But take a look and see if it offers you anything:
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/c/c7/ElectricalDiagnosticManual.pdf

[It is a large PDF file of the entire book, and seems to download slowly so don't try viewing it on your phone]
 
Thanks, didn't find info about that. I'll better go back stock on some components after car will be roadworthy, to avoid any new hidden problems.
At least in that PDF I saw everything what my X19 doesn't have.
 
All those cut wires...how fun. I'm not sure if it will help but there is a Fiat manual that focuses on the electrical system for 1980-1981 X's. To me it is a bit difficult to use because the photos are very poor and the diagrams are broken up making them hard to follow. But take a look and see if it offers you anything:
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/c/c7/ElectricalDiagnosticManual.pdf

[It is a large PDF file of the entire book, and seems to download slowly so don't try viewing it on your phone]

I would consider that the X1/9 wiring bible - so much easier to follow than the crap wiring diagrams in the shop manual :D
 
Good point. I guess when I say I find it a bit difficult, that is a relative thing with a Fiat. :)
 
And both of those are different from the one on the X1/9 engine. If your's is like the two on the right, it's the same type VW used for a long time; they work really well if you have/make a simple tool to adjust it:
oe_timing_tool_vw_audi_18t_20v_16v_2.1504225695.jpg

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