Getting ready to start reassembling my 82 X. Any way need some info / input on the 5 speed trans. I would like to replace all the seals, it has for the most part set for the past 12 years. Would it be a good idea to replace the axel seals input shaft and shift seal? The shifter is seeping somewhat already. Also do you have to take case apart?? Don’t really want to do that if I don’t have to. Any help appreciated. Also it seemed to shift ok when parked. That’s what I was told.. clutch hydraulics was gone when I got it.
5 speed question
- Thread starter vafiatx19
- Start date
TonyK
True Classic
Changing seals.
You didn't mention if the engine was in or out of the car. But to change the inboard seal in the bell housing the transmission must be off of the engine. As for the rest of the seals no dissasmbly is required apart from removing the half shaft stub shafts, 4 bolts and the bearing keeper will come off to pop the seal out. You really don't have to remove the keeper to do it, but it is easier on the bench and there is an Large O ring behind it that you can change at the same time. A standard gasket and seal kit comes in the package. As for changing Gaskets, well that will require splitting the gear box case, but these paper gaskets seldom leak anyway.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
You didn't mention if the engine was in or out of the car. But to change the inboard seal in the bell housing the transmission must be off of the engine. As for the rest of the seals no dissasmbly is required apart from removing the half shaft stub shafts, 4 bolts and the bearing keeper will come off to pop the seal out. You really don't have to remove the keeper to do it, but it is easier on the bench and there is an Large O ring behind it that you can change at the same time. A standard gasket and seal kit comes in the package. As for changing Gaskets, well that will require splitting the gear box case, but these paper gaskets seldom leak anyway.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Steve Hoelscher
True Classic
Tony is correct
Pulling the axles is the toughest part of the job. You really need a slide hammer to get them out. Once out a standard seal pulled will do the job and a proper seal driver is best to get the new ones back in.
You will have to remove the input shaft sleeve to change the input shaft seal. That requires a new gasket.
The shifter shaft seal isn't too difficult. Its best to use a deep well socket of a length of pipe to help drive the seal home.
And check to see if the speedo drive is leaking. That's the tough one.
Obviously, to change the gaskets you have to split the case.
Pulling the axles is the toughest part of the job. You really need a slide hammer to get them out. Once out a standard seal pulled will do the job and a proper seal driver is best to get the new ones back in.
You will have to remove the input shaft sleeve to change the input shaft seal. That requires a new gasket.
The shifter shaft seal isn't too difficult. Its best to use a deep well socket of a length of pipe to help drive the seal home.
And check to see if the speedo drive is leaking. That's the tough one.
Obviously, to change the gaskets you have to split the case.
Thanks for all the help. The engine and tranny is out of the car. I do have a slide hammer universal type thing for body work but it does have a wheel puller type adapter that I think will bolt on to the half shaft.
Thanks again.
Well I guess its time to order some more parts.:wink2:
Thanks again.
Well I guess its time to order some more parts.:wink2:
Steve Hoelscher
True Classic
Excellent
Matt at Midwest/Bayless will have everything you need. Note that there are different size axle seals for each side of the transmission.
And be carefull driving in the shifter seal so as to not damage the top lip.
And while you are at it, pop the vent cap off and clean it and the little hole it covers. These often are stopped up and if so will cause the gear oil to varnish.
Matt at Midwest/Bayless will have everything you need. Note that there are different size axle seals for each side of the transmission.
And be carefull driving in the shifter seal so as to not damage the top lip.
And while you are at it, pop the vent cap off and clean it and the little hole it covers. These often are stopped up and if so will cause the gear oil to varnish.
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
5 speed transaxle seals list
Here is a list of seals need for the 5 speed:
*Left stub axle seal
*Right stub axle seal
These are different size seals even if they "look" similar.
*input shaft seal
*O-ring under the diff carrier bearing cover/cap.
Be careful, don't loose the shim ring that sets the pre-load for diff carrier bearings when this cover is removed.
*Shift shaft/rod seal
*Speedo drive seal (this is a small seal)
As noted by Steve, remove the plastic breather cap on the 5th gear cover and clean out the vent tube. I would suggest ordering an spare cap in case this cap get's broken during this process.
Consider replacing the snap rings that are on the ends of the stub axle. Every so often, they get pretty bent during the removal process. Worst, I recently took apart a transaxle where the wrong snap rings were use and a LARGE puller was used to remove the stub axles. The force applied cut spline grooves into the spline grooves into the snap rings after they were removed.
Who ever worked on this transaxle before made a mess of this transaxle. Third gear syncro band snapped and ....:shock2:
Drain the oil before replacing the seals.. might be obvious, messy if ya forget. Refill with Redline MTL when done.
Here is a list of seals need for the 5 speed:
*Left stub axle seal
*Right stub axle seal
These are different size seals even if they "look" similar.
*input shaft seal
*O-ring under the diff carrier bearing cover/cap.
Be careful, don't loose the shim ring that sets the pre-load for diff carrier bearings when this cover is removed.
*Shift shaft/rod seal
*Speedo drive seal (this is a small seal)
As noted by Steve, remove the plastic breather cap on the 5th gear cover and clean out the vent tube. I would suggest ordering an spare cap in case this cap get's broken during this process.
Consider replacing the snap rings that are on the ends of the stub axle. Every so often, they get pretty bent during the removal process. Worst, I recently took apart a transaxle where the wrong snap rings were use and a LARGE puller was used to remove the stub axles. The force applied cut spline grooves into the spline grooves into the snap rings after they were removed.
Who ever worked on this transaxle before made a mess of this transaxle. Third gear syncro band snapped and ....:shock2:
Drain the oil before replacing the seals.. might be obvious, messy if ya forget. Refill with Redline MTL when done.
Easiest way to find RedLine is
to key your zip code into http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.asp and see who is local.
For me, the answer turned out to be a very well-regarded local Mustang speed shop... Nice people too... although they found the notion of a 1300 cc engine a bit perplexing...:huh:
to key your zip code into http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.asp and see who is local.
For me, the answer turned out to be a very well-regarded local Mustang speed shop... Nice people too... although they found the notion of a 1300 cc engine a bit perplexing...:huh: