Advice with 600 clutch issue

Hey Guys,

Hoping someone here can give me some advice on a clutch issue. I am helping a friend with his 600 clutch problem but unsure what needs to be changed to rectify the problem. The car is a 66 600 with the 600 trans and a 1969 817 block the engine was built up but doubt it is making super high power. The bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing are stock 600 and new. The issue we are having is despite 1st and reverse feeling good the clutch slips badly in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th and the clutch will not start to engage until the pedal is quite a bit off the floor even with pedal free play properly adjusted on the cable. Any ideas?

I see that Berni Motori sells a throw out bearing, pressure plate, and disc for installing a A112 engine in the 600D trans is this the solution due to the 850 engine being installed?

Thank for your help,
Cody
 
I would suggest checking where the clutch cable passes through the body. The outer casing may have pulled through the bulkhead. This is a common problem.
 
Is that something that can be fixed easily enough or does the cable need to be replaced?
 
Best bet is to get under the car and watch what happens when your mate operates the clutch pedal. If the ferrule on the cable pulls inside that very thin bit of old Fiat steel then you have found the problem. The photo shows how I solved the problem on my Coupe but there are other methods.
 

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Hi,
Barring any of the cable/linkage related problems remember the 600 pressure plate was originally handling around 22 horsepower. I had a friend try and run a built 1050 A112 with a stock 600 pressure plate and it showed the same tendency to spin the clutch. Because of the low ratio in first gear it will accelerate the car but when in the upper gears it's easier to spin the clutch than move the car! Simple cure but it involves pulling he transaxle. Assuming your PP has the 6 cups with a spring in each take it apart and INSERT a 903cc Sport inner valve spring inside each existing spring. You now have double springs like a Sport cylinder head valve system. It worked fine for a 1050 running an Aztech head and around 90+ horsepower.
 
Hi,
Barring any of the cable/linkage related problems remember the 600 pressure plate was originally handling around 22 horsepower. I had a friend try and run a built 1050 A112 with a stock 600 pressure plate and it showed the same tendency to spin the clutch. Because of the low ratio in first gear it will accelerate the car but when in the upper gears it's easier to spin the clutch than move the car! Simple cure but it involves pulling he transaxle. Assuming your PP has the 6 cups with a spring in each take it apart and INSERT a 903cc Sport inner valve spring inside each existing spring. You now have double springs like a Sport cylinder head valve system. It worked fine for a 1050 running an Aztech head and around 90+ horsepower.
I replaced the cable and that solved the releasing high off the floor, but I am thinking you are correct on the 600 pressure plate. It just can't handle the hp. I'll have to order up some valve springs and try that. Thanks for the tip Frank. The alternative would be to run the 850 pressure plate correct?
 
I replaced the cable and that solved the releasing high off the floor, but I am thinking you are correct on the 600 pressure plate. It just can't handle the hp. I'll have to order up some valve springs and try that. Thanks for the tip Frank. The alternative would be to run the 850 pressure plate correct?
It's been more than a few years since I've worked on 600/850 swaps so I'm a little fuzzy on details. Yes on the 850PP which I THINK (again fuzzy) bolts right up to the 600 flywheel but you will want/need to reverse the drag links going to the throw out bearing contact. If I recall removing a rivet at one end of the three links will allow you to swing them over about 120 degrees and replace the rivets. Contacting member Jeff Stich is another suggestion as he's very knowledgeable on details about 850's.
 
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