from the '79 and '80 carbed non-AC cars works just fine on a '74. I'm running two of my cars that way. I'd have to poke around the wiring diagram to tell you exactly what changes, but it's really not much at all - basically just disconnect a few wires in the engine bay and tape them off,
I'm also interested in an alternator replacement as I haven't had much luck with my 56Amp Marelli so I was considering the a rebuilt Bosch instead.
What size alternator did you use for your GM swap and do you have any more photos of the complete install as I lost you when you were discussing the arm of sort that mounts to the water pump ?
but can't locate.. I know others do, hopefully will chime in...
the alt is GM alternator rated at 63 amps for a 350 Chevy Camaro, 1975... just like the one pictured. AutoZone P/N DL7127M, also listed for a 1985 Chevy Truck, C/20 and Suburban
but can't locate.. I know others do, hopefully will chime in...
the alt is GM alternator rated at 63 amps for a 350 Chevy Camaro, 1975... just like the one pictured. AutoZone P/N DL7127M, also listed for a 1985 Chevy Truck, C/20 and Suburban
What it does solve it the availability of a reasonably priced alternator, a more ROBUST alternator, and about .5 volts more charging capacity.
The .5 volts might help but at idle your typical CD player will cough and restart using the factory supplied voltage source.
You really NEED to do ONE of several BWM variations and I strongly suggest relays or a separate fused source of direct power for the horns, ignition, lights and stereo.
Stop by Radio Shack after ya go to Auto Zone... (I sure wish there was a better resource for electrical components OFFLINE though...)
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