Anybody have KYB performance shocks on their X?

W

wrxdrew

1300cc's of Angry Bees
I'm looking at doing the struts on my new X. Are the KYBs worth the price, and what are the handling pros VS. the ride cons?

Anybody use these KYBs with lowering springs?

Better still I'm considering replacing the shocks myself, does anybody have any advice or instruction for me?
 
I don't think KYB makes a performance damper for the X. AFAIK, their replacement struts are valved pretty similar to stock. Does anybody know otherwise?

///Mike
 
Links to the online shop manuals

This one hosted by Rudy:
http://socalx.com/xhelp/shopmanual.htm

Another hosted by Damon:
http://www.midwesternmedicalmachine.com/~damonfg/X_FSM/FSM_index.html

Bookmark them. You will need them more than once. :)

I have KYBs on my 78. I believe they are the only readily available strut for the X these days. You can go with coilovers, but that is way more expensive.

The lowering springs from IAP or Vicks are 15% stiffer than stock and will lower the car about an inch at all 4 corners.
 
IIRC, The kyb GR2's are valved slightly more aggressive on rebound, and close to stock on compression. They work well with OEM and slightly stiffer springs (on DSP x, I have them paired with FAZA stage 3 springs and they are way under valved for this application ( I have Konis to go on when the time comes)) but you will notice that, new out of the box, they will slightly increase ride height untill everything settles (way over gassed from KYB).

You will not be dissapointed for the money spend...
 
Shocks- not too hard.

I put KYBs on last year, and wow, what a difference. Of course, one can see that the old shocks were spent.

oldandnew.jpg


Yes, the photo is old front shocks and the new one is a rear shock, but I did get them on right.

First step after removal is to cinch up the springs:
spring.jpg


The strut spring compressors are cheap ($12.99) at Harbor Freight :
hf.jpg




Next is removal of the top bolt. Its easier if a vice holds the unit:
vice.jpg


In order for the assembly to not spin around, use a flat metal bar to keep the notched cup from turning while using a wrench with a cheater bar on the nut:
topnut.jpg


That top nut was the hardest part.

Matt had the rear strut supports that are needed. Sure is nice not bobbing up and down after speed bumps anymore!! :headbang:
 
Thanks guys, these links and images will help imensly. I was told Xweb people where amazingly helpful, and you guys have definately lived up to expectation.

Okay, So I'll probably go with the KYBs then. The next question is aftermarket lowering springs VS. OEM. While I have the suspension apart, would it be a good idea to do the springs as well? Do the lowering springs lower the X to the point of scraping in driveways and over speed bumps or is it tolerable. I'd probably end up doing the pads at the same time as well.

Does anyone have recommendations regarding springs and performance pads?
 
springs

I for one used the stock springs. IMHO the X1/9 is low enough. Just pull up to a Camry and see how low you are in comparison!
 
IMHO, the X suffers from its nose-high attitude...

Both from a handling AND braking standpoint.

I've proved it to MYSELF, but will not argue the point.

Of course, lowering any suspension will make you more suceptible to road hazards and speed bumps... but the trade off is more than acceptable, again, IMHO. Usually a 2" drop will not impact you that much. I ran a "rubber rake" in addition which probably brought me down another inch or two and I had to be more careful, but to me, the LOOK was worth it.

(BTW, its my understanding the late model X's used a taller front spring to meet US Bumper Height requirements.)

Lowering just the front will tend to put more STATIC weight transfer on the front tires which in turns gives you better grip for turns and braking.

Our 5 time SCCA champ used cut down stock springs and preferred them over the aftermarkets available. You can now decide for yourself.

As far as the struts, springs and pads... and doing them at the same time... is a good idea as you are in the 'ballpark' with the disassembly work at the time. Also consider a set of PLAIA PIVOTS from OBERTS to replace the factory plastic washers under the main strut nuts. Everyone that has done this has sworn by the conversion saying it makes parking so much easier.

Lastly, I've had great luck and excellent performance from the stock FERADO (sp?) pads many suppliers have. My problem has always been front wheel lock-ups and now that I have 50 and 60 series tires, decent rubber, and a decent static weight distribution, if I do lock them up, its all evenly, and in very rare events. I also have not experienced any noticable fading.

There are lots of upgraded pads out there though, GREEN STUFF, RED and different makes, which is kinda surprizing. Again, that'll have to be your decision.

AND... I almost forgot... do REPLACE all four rotors while you are at it. Usually 16 - 20 bucks apiece, I doubt if you could resurface the old ones for that kinda money and it's not recommended anyway. You will be happy you did.

Didn't get to the calipers, flex lines, or master... but we can save that for another day if you see no IMMEDIATE need.

Have fun...
 
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