verdebiancorosso
Daily Driver
Is there any info on bleeding the cooling system . I tried a search and did not find anything specific -
bleed cooling system
- Thread starter verdebiancorosso
- Start date
Factory bleed procedure...
verdebiancorosso
Daily Driver
Hey Thanks
Appreciate that . Found the leak sources . One of the Radiator Hose and the two drain plugs on the front to rear plumbing.
Appreciate that . Found the leak sources . One of the Radiator Hose and the two drain plugs on the front to rear plumbing.
Randy Brown
Low Mileage
Bleeding coolant replacement
How much coolant would one expect to need after radiator replacement with remaining coolant still in the block?
How much coolant would one expect to need after radiator replacement with remaining coolant still in the block?
Bleeding the cooling system
There's a bleeder at the top of the radiator, reachable from the front of the trunk at the left-hand side, all the way up in front under the nose.
Here's how I do it:
Park the car on level ground, cold.
Remove the expansion tank cap. Top it up to at least 3/4 full if it's low.
Now, while cap is still off, open the bleeder in the front trunk with an 8mm hex key. Just slack it a bit so that air and then water comes out (it's lower than the level of the tank, so you'll get water eventually).
When just water is flowing, close the bleeder, top up the tank and put the cap back on, and drive. You may have to repeat a few times to get all the air out; there's lots of places for it to hide. At some point, try running the heater at high revs; there's going to a big bubble of air in the heater circuit that you need to force out.
There's a bleeder at the top of the radiator, reachable from the front of the trunk at the left-hand side, all the way up in front under the nose.
Here's how I do it:
Park the car on level ground, cold.
Remove the expansion tank cap. Top it up to at least 3/4 full if it's low.
Now, while cap is still off, open the bleeder in the front trunk with an 8mm hex key. Just slack it a bit so that air and then water comes out (it's lower than the level of the tank, so you'll get water eventually).
When just water is flowing, close the bleeder, top up the tank and put the cap back on, and drive. You may have to repeat a few times to get all the air out; there's lots of places for it to hide. At some point, try running the heater at high revs; there's going to a big bubble of air in the heater circuit that you need to force out.
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
Which rad did you use? There are a few posts about the VW Scirocco rad - http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/1199811127/scirocco+radiator+redux
the 87 year model rad has the bleed screw.
Matthew
True Classic
You could loosen the upper radiator hose and stick a bent screwdriver between the hose and radiator hose barb so that air can escape. Just pull out the screwdriver and tighten the clamp when coolant starts running out.
Also, there is a bleeder on the t-stat housing (at least on my car). Filling the system with both bleeders open has always been fool proof for me without ever raising the rear of the car.
Also, there is a bleeder on the t-stat housing (at least on my car). Filling the system with both bleeders open has always been fool proof for me without ever raising the rear of the car.