clutch problem

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User1

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 2 2000 at 1:48 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Scott [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey guys!

I just replaced the slave cylinder on my 86. I have bled the system (only old dirty fluid comes out, no more bubbles), and I tightened the bleed screw with the pedal down and the hose still intact. Now, the pedal only moves the slave and lever a couple of inches and the clutch will not do much of anything. The car is in neutral, so I can start it, but when I press the pedal it will not disengage so I can put it in gear. Any advice??

Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->More info...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 2 2000, 2:46 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Ok - it appears that I just do not know how to adjust the clutch at all! I have been tinkering and reading the manuals, etc. I know can get the car in gear and drive it somewhat, but the clutch "takes up" right next to the floor - then goes 6-7 more inches until it stops moving back towards me...I am just not sure what to do to get the pedal to let out gradually as normal. Is this adjustment at the pedal or at the slave? Question 2: manual shows only ONE spring connected between the fork lever on the tranny and some other point (under the F.I. manifold). My car had a second spring connected between a little hole on the slave and the fork lever...what gives?

thanks - and Happy New Year too!

Scott<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 3 2000, 5:29 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi Scott!

First, about the bleed. That should be clean fluid coming out. If there is still dirty in there, continue to bleed (within reason). You may never get it "clean" but if it still looks burnt or strongly discolored, I would keep bleeding it with new fluid until it looks at least reasonable...

If you have problems getting the system to bleed, it is very helpful to move the piston around inside the slave cylinder. If the piston is bottomed out while you are trying to bleed the system, you can just pump forever and not get anywhere. If you just back the piston away from bottom enough for some motion to take place, bleeding will be much easier on your leg!

Also, it is a big help to use one of those vacuum or pneumatic bleeders, such as the Easybleed or the Supersucker or whatever it is that they're calling it this week...

Be sure that your system is properly bled, no air in the system and positive pressure, then you adjust the clutch action at the slave by adjusting the position of the threaded block which is screwed onto the slave piston rod. Don't mess with this one though until you are sure the system is bled properly, only then will your adjustments be accurate.

Once that is done, you should be pretty close to normal pedal travel. Then if you like, you can tweak (slightly) the pedal-stop at the adjustment nut on the pedal mount (under dash behind pedal).

That should do it hopefully. If not, please do let us know and we'll go from there.

About the springs, I don't know. My '80 has no springs there, although I think that one was originally installed as an 'assist' for the lever arm, supposed to make the clutch pedal easier to push. I don't know anything about a second spring there. A lever-arm return spring? In any case its absence has had no influence on the car as far as I can tell. Mine drives the same without either spring. -Mac.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks Mac!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 3 2000, 7:10 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I will try these suggestions later this week and let you know. I think I finally got all of the bubbles out and it is an adjustment problem I am having right now...the fluid finally started to clean up a little too. I will fill you in and let you know if there are any more questions. If the clutch takes up right at the floor and makes it hard to engage 3rd-4th gears without giving the engine a little more gas, which way would the adjusting nuts on the slave piston rod move...toward the release lever or back towards the slave casing itself...?

thanks again!

Scott<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Mac[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->threaded block<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2000, 4:33 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The further the block is turned away from the slave cylinder, the less tightly the clutch would engage when you are off the pedal. This means that if it were too far away from the slave, your clutch would slip (or not engage at all)...

The further you rotate the block toward the slave, the sooner the clutch will take hold. Too close to the slave and you'll find that you can't fully (or at all) disengage the clutch when you hit the pedal.

Somewheres in the middle ground is best `;) -Mac.

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2000, 5:08 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->For starters, the Bertone's did not have a threaded block. The block has a through hole and it is positioned via the two lock nuts. But Mac is right on track otherwise.

If the clutch works only when the pedal is almost all the way to the floor, your acutaing rod at the slave cylinder is too short. Lengthen it by moving the lock nuts, and hence the block, further away from the slave.

Bertones should have two springs, one is attached at the very end of the actuating rod and actually goes over the rod and is held in place by a washer and a little cotter pin. One end of the spring pushed against the clutch fork and the other against the washer. It is trying to keep the rod/lock nuts/block pushed firmly against the clutch fork.

The other should go from the bellhousing to the clutch fork, pulling the fork in the counter-clockwise direction as viewed from above.

In the earlier cars the spring pulled the clutch fork in the opposite direction, in effect pulling the throw out bearing away from the clutch when not in use. In the later cars they turned it around causing the throw out bearing to always be in contact with the pressure plate. The goal was to have it be a self adjusting clutch. This idea works, but the problem is that you are now wearing out your throw out bearing in 20k miles instead of 60k miles because it is always spinning with the engine.

My advise is to discard all the springs. I have without any side effects.

Lalo<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Mac[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 90px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->thanks Lalo!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2000, 10:15 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 90px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have not dealt much with the late models, thank you for the word on the locknuts. I didnno that!

Glad to hear you are running without the springs `whew! - that confirms my suspicions on them...

I am usually pretty confident about my views on things like that, but it is always reassuring to hear it from someone with the personal experience. -Mac.

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