On the later cars, '79 up, you can raise the upper mount a bit without modification of the engine cover. On the early cars you have to remove or cut the plastic filler strips on either side of the engine cover.Regarding creating a box, there is no room above the strut in front, the rear strut has room but you would need to modify the engine cover.
Not necessarily. On a stock chassis and suspension yes, but with some modifications the spindle and/or strut's location can be moved (relocated) relative to the chassis to lower the vehicle around the strut without decreasing the strut's travel. I'm not saying this is the "perfect" design solution, but in a real world where the owner desires a much lower vehicle height (for whatever reason) then mods can allow for it and still not bottom out the suspension. Some circles may refer to this as a "spindle drop", "body drop", "channeled", "Z'ing the frame" or other terms depending on the approach taken or the genre of enthusiasts. Lots of alternatives, all requiring modification of the stock design, which is not everyone's cup of tea. And often mods do come with a tradeoff, in one form or another. But depending on the owner's goals those tradeoffs may be worth the outcome. Anything is possible.As the suspension- chassis is lowered, suspension travel will be given up.
Not necessarily. On a stock chassis and suspension yes, but with some modifications the spindle and/or strut's location can be moved (relocated) relative to the chassis to lower the vehicle around the strut without decreasing the strut's travel. I'm not saying this is the "perfect" design solution, but in a real world where the owner desires a much lower vehicle height (for whatever reason) then mods can allow for it and still not bottom out the suspension. Some circles may refer to this as a "spindle drop", "body drop", "channeled", "Z'ing the frame" or other terms depending on the approach taken or the genre of enthusiasts. Lots of alternatives, all requiring modification of the stock design, which is not everyone's cup of tea. And often mods do come with a tradeoff, in one form or another. But depending on the owner's goals those tradeoffs may be worth the outcome. Anything is possible.
But don't get me wrong, I'm not disagreeing with the overall intent of your message at all.
Exactly, which is why I say this sort of approach may not be for everyone.Before any things is altered-modified, it must be very clear what the goals are and why any alteration-modification needs to be done.
I'll investigate putting the camber plates on top of the body and replacing components in rod with shorter ones, I have a plan!
Thank you everyone.
I'm running 15" wheels all round with 7" on the front and 8" on the rear, ET 20 with hub-centric spacers to clear the larger brakes.
I'll investigate putting the camber plates on top of the body and replacing components in rod with shorter ones, I have a plan!
Hi Bernice, I don't really have any goals or intentions really, it's not a track or hill climb car. I've owned it 20 years and modified it bit by bit to my taste. I used to run 195/45 tyres all round and the grip improved significantly over stock. I now use 215s on the rear and 185s on the front as I wanted the staggered set up. Brakes are 284mm vented discs all round with 4 pots, bias valve and bigger MC which stops the car on its nose. Engine is 3 times the hp of the original and the back end stays planted in the bends with those tyres.What size tires? Keep in mind, 7" front 8" rear is awful big for s stock body.
Wider tires do not increase grip, they alter the tire contact patch shape of the same area of a less wide tire. Wider rims also alter the dynamic roll center and not always for the better. Wheel spacers on the front will alter the scrub radius which can affect braking stability, steering feel and a list of other dynamic suspension behaviors.
~What are the original goals of chassis-suspension alterations?
Bernice
Bernice