verdebiancorosso
Daily Driver
I was trying to locate this valve to bleed radiator on 1979. Probably not where it's going to be shown (in my manual) any ideas? No place obvious when I opened the hood. On radiator? John
Coolant Bleeder valve location 79 X?
- Thread starter verdebiancorosso
- Start date
Bleeder,,
You won't see the valve actually but a round hole ( ~ 1 inch ) in the metal. Stick your finger in it and feel around and there will be an allen head bolt. It's a 5 mm allen. These can break out of the rad if rusted , so be cautious, and soak well in advance with a good penetrating oil.
You won't see the valve actually but a round hole ( ~ 1 inch ) in the metal. Stick your finger in it and feel around and there will be an allen head bolt. It's a 5 mm allen. These can break out of the rad if rusted , so be cautious, and soak well in advance with a good penetrating oil.
verdebiancorosso
Daily Driver
Oh that
Cool - I did see that and questioned what that was . . That helps - John
Cool - I did see that and questioned what that was . . That helps - John
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
As Jim Young stated... and a bit more...
1. The bleeder should be CENTERED in the access hole... If it isn't, then the radiator is installed wrong. Needs to be dropped and reinstalled as cooling will be impacted negatively if it isn't.
2. I've owned two 79's and after 30+ years of them NOT being opened, I wouldn't attempt it. If they break or fail to seal again afterwords, yur in deep poo-poo.
3. I recommend installing a FLUSH TEE in the upper heater hose near the cam belt cover and then use hose pressure to purge the water through the radiator and up and out the reservoir tank. There is USUALLY a junction fitting that the factory used to connect the engine and hose to the pre-plumbed hose into the firewall to the heater. Just remove it and install the Tee.
This method has worked for me on several cars over the years, cost about 3 - 5 bucks and found at WalMart and others...
Hope this helps.
1. The bleeder should be CENTERED in the access hole... If it isn't, then the radiator is installed wrong. Needs to be dropped and reinstalled as cooling will be impacted negatively if it isn't.
2. I've owned two 79's and after 30+ years of them NOT being opened, I wouldn't attempt it. If they break or fail to seal again afterwords, yur in deep poo-poo.
3. I recommend installing a FLUSH TEE in the upper heater hose near the cam belt cover and then use hose pressure to purge the water through the radiator and up and out the reservoir tank. There is USUALLY a junction fitting that the factory used to connect the engine and hose to the pre-plumbed hose into the firewall to the heater. Just remove it and install the Tee.
This method has worked for me on several cars over the years, cost about 3 - 5 bucks and found at WalMart and others...
Hope this helps.
Jim McKenzie
1972 850 Spider
Second the flush tee rec
Put it in my last 3 X's and it works great.
Put it in my last 3 X's and it works great.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Oh... Its been awhile since I really thought...
... about this.
After I back-flush the entire system in this aforementioned manner... I then drain the reservoir by removing its lower hose and then reinstall it.
(BTW... I drain the entire system by simply removing a lower radiator hose from a pipe going forward...)
Refill the reservoir with one gallon of antifreeze... it will hold it nicely, if I remember correctly with enough room to give you an air cushion.
I also keep my reservoir 3/4 full as I feel every little bit extra helps.
Also... some folks have noted that the hose pressure and the coolness of the water may keep the thermostat closed and thereby not allow the pressure forward to the radiator in order to force the air out of the top of it. I've ran my engine and kept it warm and at high rpms at times (3000-4000) and kept the hose pressure on and have been rather successful. There could be some air in there... but I doubt it and I don't have any overheating issues. Sure, I've had some hose failures and reservoir failures over the years... but no issues due to an air pocket. HTH...
... about this.
After I back-flush the entire system in this aforementioned manner... I then drain the reservoir by removing its lower hose and then reinstall it.
(BTW... I drain the entire system by simply removing a lower radiator hose from a pipe going forward...)
Refill the reservoir with one gallon of antifreeze... it will hold it nicely, if I remember correctly with enough room to give you an air cushion.
I also keep my reservoir 3/4 full as I feel every little bit extra helps.
Also... some folks have noted that the hose pressure and the coolness of the water may keep the thermostat closed and thereby not allow the pressure forward to the radiator in order to force the air out of the top of it. I've ran my engine and kept it warm and at high rpms at times (3000-4000) and kept the hose pressure on and have been rather successful. There could be some air in there... but I doubt it and I don't have any overheating issues. Sure, I've had some hose failures and reservoir failures over the years... but no issues due to an air pocket. HTH...