Kevin Cozzo
True Classic
For those wanting the joy of dual carbs, and never having the experiance
I got an exhaust leak with my vicks header and stoles dual dcnf setup...apparently a nut vibrated off the far end exhaust stud, so off with everything...no big deal...while taking off the intake, I just didn't think, and started removing fasteners...on the Stoles intake I had, there's a center fastener thru the cross bar, and now I know why. It should be put on first and removed last, especially if you leave the carbs on...I didn't and all the weight caused the outer end mounting ear to break off the intake, and lead me down a painful journey, lol. So I start looking around and I was in a big hurry, as the weather right now is perfect where I live for top down driving
I found a pierce intake on Ebay, actually from pierce, for a bargain of 160 bucks...it was listed as the dreaded 128/x universal angle. I bought it on impulse thinking I can make it work, as all this aftermarket stuff isn't just plug and play, and it really is up to the end user to make it work. So after I got it, I noticed the angle sloped back to nowhere close to level, and started looking elsewhere, and/or investigating changing the angle. And oh yeah, like the previous one I had, it wouldn't just slip on, because the vicks header flange conflicted, so I had to painstakingly grind the bottom flange with a belt sander. So after I did that, it was no longer "returnable" and it was mine now
About this time, besides the angle issue,I had the reality that the new manifold did not have the center support, and it was shorter in height, and placed the carbs closer to the cam box....all I could imagine was the intake breaking off hitting a big pothole, and what about the geometry of the linkage? Another issue was if my custom phenobolic heat shield spacer would fit. The big advantage here is I can build a bigger airbox, for better airflow, which was another problem I've been looking at
I measured the angle difference which was about 2.5 degrees, and took it to the machinist. I opted to have the engine side machined, as there is already some slop in the bolt holes, and they could be dremeled out. As for the thickness of the flange, I would just have to mill down the header bolt hole thickness to match, which I had to do with the previous manifold...For you newbies, the intake and exhause share mounting studs, and the flanges on both need to be very close in thickness...My last remaining issue was the center support ear hole...fortunantly, the crossbar had a flat edge, and I was able to make a bolt on bracket to add the added support.
So I got the intake yesterday after work, and the machinist even cleaned up the stud holes to be perpendicular to the flange (yes, thank you!) I checked out the bores with a gasket, and they are close nough for now, but of course the inside was rough as sandpaper, so I spent a couple of hours clening it up on the inside with the dremel. I decided to mount the intake first then the spacers and carb. My old studs were M8....I thought I was over the hill, nope! the new intake has m7x1.0 mounting holes for the carbs wtf? lol. So after work today I will be getting out the drill, drill guide and tap and die. I thought about getting m7 studs, but all I can think of is the "centering" of the carbs
I wrote this for all those that are contemplating dual carbs for the first time, especially if you're piecing it out, I'm sure most with the 2 carb setup have been thru this. It isn't just bolt on and go...I will try to post some pics later today
I got an exhaust leak with my vicks header and stoles dual dcnf setup...apparently a nut vibrated off the far end exhaust stud, so off with everything...no big deal...while taking off the intake, I just didn't think, and started removing fasteners...on the Stoles intake I had, there's a center fastener thru the cross bar, and now I know why. It should be put on first and removed last, especially if you leave the carbs on...I didn't and all the weight caused the outer end mounting ear to break off the intake, and lead me down a painful journey, lol. So I start looking around and I was in a big hurry, as the weather right now is perfect where I live for top down driving
I found a pierce intake on Ebay, actually from pierce, for a bargain of 160 bucks...it was listed as the dreaded 128/x universal angle. I bought it on impulse thinking I can make it work, as all this aftermarket stuff isn't just plug and play, and it really is up to the end user to make it work. So after I got it, I noticed the angle sloped back to nowhere close to level, and started looking elsewhere, and/or investigating changing the angle. And oh yeah, like the previous one I had, it wouldn't just slip on, because the vicks header flange conflicted, so I had to painstakingly grind the bottom flange with a belt sander. So after I did that, it was no longer "returnable" and it was mine now
About this time, besides the angle issue,I had the reality that the new manifold did not have the center support, and it was shorter in height, and placed the carbs closer to the cam box....all I could imagine was the intake breaking off hitting a big pothole, and what about the geometry of the linkage? Another issue was if my custom phenobolic heat shield spacer would fit. The big advantage here is I can build a bigger airbox, for better airflow, which was another problem I've been looking at
I measured the angle difference which was about 2.5 degrees, and took it to the machinist. I opted to have the engine side machined, as there is already some slop in the bolt holes, and they could be dremeled out. As for the thickness of the flange, I would just have to mill down the header bolt hole thickness to match, which I had to do with the previous manifold...For you newbies, the intake and exhause share mounting studs, and the flanges on both need to be very close in thickness...My last remaining issue was the center support ear hole...fortunantly, the crossbar had a flat edge, and I was able to make a bolt on bracket to add the added support.
So I got the intake yesterday after work, and the machinist even cleaned up the stud holes to be perpendicular to the flange (yes, thank you!) I checked out the bores with a gasket, and they are close nough for now, but of course the inside was rough as sandpaper, so I spent a couple of hours clening it up on the inside with the dremel. I decided to mount the intake first then the spacers and carb. My old studs were M8....I thought I was over the hill, nope! the new intake has m7x1.0 mounting holes for the carbs wtf? lol. So after work today I will be getting out the drill, drill guide and tap and die. I thought about getting m7 studs, but all I can think of is the "centering" of the carbs
I wrote this for all those that are contemplating dual carbs for the first time, especially if you're piecing it out, I'm sure most with the 2 carb setup have been thru this. It isn't just bolt on and go...I will try to post some pics later today
