First start after setting static timing

petex19

petex19

True Classic
Set my timing marks to 10'BTDC on crank pulley and verified it matched the flywheel 10'BTDC mark. Ensured the rotor is pointing to #4 plug contact and that firing order is correct. 4-2-1-3 clockwise around the distributor cap.
Fresh fuel and new plugs prior to attempting to fire the engine. I expected it to start right up but it would just crank over. I loosened the distributor and a little at a time would advance it (turning counter clockwise) and attempt to start the engine. The engine started spitting and sputtering once I started advancing it. The engine ran once I advanced it about 15' but was idling only at 600rpm so it didn't stay running. My battery at this point became too weak to continue so it's now charging. Is any of this normal? I expected it to start at 10' advance of static timing and then once running I would set the timing advance with my timing light.
Should I be looking at ignition components such as cap, rotor or coil?

I did also change my f22 emulsion tubes for f24 over the winter. Are f24 harder to start the engine?
 
F24 and F36 are the most common emullsion tubes for dual DCNFs on an X1/9. I looked up F22 and they show up on a few Ford products. I don't think the F24 is the problem but what idle, main, and air corrector jets are you using? If those carbs came off a completely different engine type, there is no guarantee that any of the jets, etc. are optimal for that engine.

When your battery gets charged, try giving it a bit more advance and see if it starts. If you are running a performance cam, that will tend to push the advance at idle higher. I'm running 20 degrees static as instructed by the cam manufacturer. You should also aim for max advance in the 30 - 35 degree range at around 3,000 - 3,200 rpm. Depending on your distributor, the centrifugal advance may need to be recurved. The FI Bosch distributor curve is probably the closest fit and the distributors off the carbed cars are the worst. You might start out by trying to get the correct advance in the 3K rpm range and then see if it will idle as the timing at speed is most important.
 
Yes I'm running a Delta 40/80 cam with an adjustable Miller's mule pulley.
My carb jetting:
34 chokes
135 mains
F24 emulsion tubes
195 air corrector
49 idle jets
60 F9 starter jets
Accelerator pump jets 40
I did order a new ignition coil that arrives tomorrow to try. I also have a spare distributor that I'll try tomorrow as well.
 
The jets are roughly in the same range as yours but I am running 32mm chokes. Are you running a 1500 or something larger? I suppose that cam can suck in a fair amount of air.
 
dllubin said:
Got it! Any relation to the one in your signature line with the DCOEs?
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Same engine, different carbs. The car was running putting it away for the winter. I went back to the basics and set the static timing and working from there. Something has obviously failed from sitting. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge today so as to rule those things out. New plugs, fresh fuel. I tried a spare distributor cap and bosch ICM and no change. I ordered a new ignition coil and will replace tomorrow. The car did start after advancing the distributor but was idling only 600rpm. That's when the battery was almost dead.
I noticed my vacuum advance capsule isn't blocked off and I believe I used to have it blocked off in the past.
 
Changing the emulsion tubes from F22 to F24 could potentially affect engine performance, including starting. While this change may not directly cause starting issues, it's worth considering as a factor if other potential causes are ruled out. Perform a compression test to check the health of the engine's cylinders. Low compression can lead to starting and idling issues. Once the engine is running, adjust the idle speed to the manufacturer's specifications. Idle speed that's too low can cause the engine to stall. After addressing any potential issues and ensuring proper fuel and air mixture, recheck the timing with a timing light. Adjust the timing as necessary to achieve the correct ignition timing at idle.
 
DominickKelley said:
Changing the emulsion tubes from F22 to F24 could potentially affect engine performance, including starting. While this change may not directly cause starting issues, it's worth considering as a factor if other potential causes are ruled out. Perform a compression test to check the health of the engine's cylinders. Low compression can lead to starting and idling issues. Once the engine is running, adjust the idle speed to the manufacturer's specifications. Idle speed that's too low can cause the engine to stall. After addressing any potential issues and ensuring proper fuel and air mixture, recheck the timing with a timing light. Adjust the timing as necessary to achieve the correct ignition timing at idle.
Click to expand...
This has to be a bot!
 
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