Has anyone actually replaced the rear A-arm outer balljoints?
- Thread starter Ulix
- Start date
Carl Pålsson
True Classic
Though I haven't tried the replacemant part I have removed, overhauled and re-mounted one of my original joints.
IIRC you need to drill/grind off the two rivet heads holding the joint to the arm and drive the rivets out. I replaced the rivets with a couple of stainless bolts with locknuts.
IIRC you need to drill/grind off the two rivet heads holding the joint to the arm and drive the rivets out. I replaced the rivets with a couple of stainless bolts with locknuts.
Carl Pålsson
True Classic
I would suggest an angle grinder, and just wear the whole rivet head/end away. It might seem brutal but I have a faint recollection of trying to drill first with little success. As long as you take care not to go into the metal of the arm you should be fine.
i've done this sort of repair on a spider 2000 I had ... not on any of my x's, tho. I thought it was a relatively easy repair ... drill the rivets out or grind the "tops" off 'em and tap-tap-tap 'em out, then bolt the new joint on. the last one I did was in the parking lot of the local grocery store with a battery powered dremel acting as the grinder. I think I was done in less than 30 minutes.
assuming the now-available new ball joints will go on the same sort of way, it should be a fairly easy task by my measure.
jim
assuming the now-available new ball joints will go on the same sort of way, it should be a fairly easy task by my measure.
jim
Paul Stoltze
True Classic
Rebuilt rather than replaced
I gave up after about 20 minutes of using an angle grinder on the rivet heads. I chose to drill out the back of the ball joint and inject it with urethane to tighten it up. It was relatively easy to do, and it fixed the problem (at least temporarily). It is on a race car that gets very few miles. I'm not sure how long it would last with regular street use, but I'd sure try it before spending the money on replacement ball joints.
Paul
I gave up after about 20 minutes of using an angle grinder on the rivet heads. I chose to drill out the back of the ball joint and inject it with urethane to tighten it up. It was relatively easy to do, and it fixed the problem (at least temporarily). It is on a race car that gets very few miles. I'm not sure how long it would last with regular street use, but I'd sure try it before spending the money on replacement ball joints.
Paul
Here's an aussie doc on how to rebuild them in place
Using 132 ball joints:
http://www.fiatlancia.asn.au/documents/FIATX1-9balljoint.doc
Using 132 ball joints:
http://www.fiatlancia.asn.au/documents/FIATX1-9balljoint.doc
etownsley
Streel Legal GP Race Car
I am doing it right now!
I used a milling machine to remove the rivet heads. Be very careful not to mill into the A arm box section as this will reduce the strength of the A arm.
With the rivets removed use 13 mm grade 8 bolts with castle nuts and cotter pins.
I had an extra pair of A arms from a parts car. I removed the ball joints from my original pair and the parts car pair. Now if one of them goes bad I can quickly change out the bad one with one of my two spares.
Good luck!
Eric
I used a milling machine to remove the rivet heads. Be very careful not to mill into the A arm box section as this will reduce the strength of the A arm.
With the rivets removed use 13 mm grade 8 bolts with castle nuts and cotter pins.
I had an extra pair of A arms from a parts car. I removed the ball joints from my original pair and the parts car pair. Now if one of them goes bad I can quickly change out the bad one with one of my two spares.
Good luck!
Eric