Head is off, what else should I do?

ecohen2

ecohen2

True Classic
So I managed to remove the head and camshaft box and send it off to Midwest Bayless to have them fix and rebuild it. I now have a couple of weeks to do other stuff to the car. Unfortunately I have to pass state emissions, so I am back to the stock exhaust system and am limited to what else I can improve for performance. The car still has under 30k original miles, so most of it is in good condition..

On my list of things to do:

1. Passenger rear brake is dragging and appears to have been dragging for along time. Fix/replace/rebuild it, maybe rotors and pads :(
2. I have a new water pump in a box. My old one seems to work fine, should I do that while everything is apart and drained?
3. Going to replace the sensors that go into the head. Temperature etc..
4. Change out engine/transmission oil.
5. Replace some of the fuel lines.

I have a set of new pistons in a box, but I am not really sure I want to tackle that with everything else going on.

I also have a set of what appears to be rebuilt injectors that were at the bottom of a box, but are still in the wrappers. Again, I don't believe I have an issue with the existing ones, but everything is apart, do I do those?

Anything else a must do?
 
Fuel lines are a good idea. The problem is finding good replacement fuel line. I am on my third set of replacement lines and hopefully these won't degrade like the previous versions (they all claim to be ethanol safe).

Tom's brake caliper write up is great! Thanks Tom.

If you replace the water pump, it's worth the time to check the impeller clearance. I found that mine had too much clearance and bringing it into spec made a noticeable (although not huge) difference.

In my experience, temperature sensors either work or don't. I wouldn't change them unless they test bad. Replacement parts are often suspect. Same goes for fuel injectors. You can do a few simple tests by pressurizing them and then applying a voltage to turn them on. Compare flow and spray pattern.

Oil changes are a no brainer. If in doubt, change the oil.
 
ecohen2 said:
So I managed to remove the head and camshaft box and send it off to Midwest Bayless to have them fix and rebuild it. I now have a couple of weeks to do other stuff to the car. Unfortunately I have to pass state emissions, so I am back to the stock exhaust system and am limited to what else I can improve for performance. The car still has under 30k original miles, so most of it is in good condition..

On my list of things to do:

1. Passenger rear brake is dragging and appears to have been dragging for along time. Fix/replace/rebuild it, maybe rotors and pads :(
2. I have a new water pump in a box. My old one seems to work fine, should I do that while everything is apart and drained?
3. Going to replace the sensors that go into the head. Temperature etc..
4. Change out engine/transmission oil.
5. Replace some of the fuel lines.

I have a set of new pistons in a box, but I am not really sure I want to tackle that with everything else going on.

I also have a set of what appears to be rebuilt injectors that were at the bottom of a box, but are still in the wrappers. Again, I don't believe I have an issue with the existing ones, but everything is apart, do I do those?

Anything else a must do?
Click to expand...
Replace ALL the hoses, no exceptions.

Before replacing the coolant pump, check the clearance between the impeller to housing. All coolant pumps eventually wear out demanding replacement. New does not mean serviceable or better than the pump currently in service. Given this, what brand/quality is the possible replacement pump..

Replace the thermostat with the correct type and of known high quality.

Replace ALL the belts with the highest quality belt (gates and similar).

New hardware of identical type/grade. This is low cost insurance and problem prevention. Use anti-seize and Loctite as needed.
New cylinder head bolts (technically screws), washers and matching head gasket of known high quality.

~Check the deck of the block for flatness. It is possible the deck of the block is not flat, not common but can happen.

New pistons, why? If the current pistons/rings and such are good, that is a can-o-worms not worth opening. Replacing pistons involves honing/boring the cylinders to fit and seating new piston rings, new bearing and ....

Check/clean stuff normally not accessible.

Send the injectors out for cleaning/flow testing. Flow matching is an option.. Take this opportunity to properly address the injectors and related hoses. Do the same with cold start injector.

Check the flame trap in crank case vent hose and clean out the cyclonic trap.

Drain/fill the gear box oil with Redline MTL...

Rear brake calipers can be rebuilt or know good quality rebuild can be had. Know there are a stack of Bellevue washers inside the rear caliper that can be "fun" to deal with during assembly.


This is one of those fix/correct what is preventive maintenance now or deal with a "problem" later. Keep in mind, "penny wise-pound foolish" applies here.

Bernice
 
beezee said:
Fuel lines are a good idea. The problem is finding good replacement fuel line. I am on my third set of replacement lines and hopefully these won't degrade like the previous versions (they all claim to be ethanol safe).
Click to expand...

It's actually available:

belmetric.com

M7.5X13.5 Smooth - Flennor Multifuel Hose RHM7.5ECK

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.
belmetric.com belmetric.com

It's what I've used for years.
 
Specifically for fuel lines:

SAE ~J30R9~ Specification:

Fuel Injection Hose Medium-Pressure Coupled and Uncoupled Synthetic Rubber Tube and Cover (SAE 30R9)
Hose primarily intended to meet the demands of fuel injection systems. These would include, for example, electronic fuel metering (EFM), electronic fuel injection (EFI), throttle body injection (TBI), and the like. Other areas of utility are those applications requiring fuel permeation resistance exceeding 30R8 and ones which require fuel resistance greater than that obtainable with 30R6, 7, and 8. Exposure of this hose to gasoline or diesel fuel that contains high levels, greater than 5% by volume, of oxygenates, i.e., ethanol, methanol, or MTBE may result in significantly higher permeation rates than realized with ASTM Fuel C. This hose may be supplied in either a coupled or uncoupled form, and is useful in the transportation of gasoline, ethanol extended gasoline, diesel fuel, lubrication oil, or the vapor present in either the fuel system or the crankcase of internal combustion engines in mobile, stationary, and marine applications. This hose has a maximum working pressure of 0.69 MPa (100 psi) up to and including 12.70 mm (1/2 in) ID. This hose may be furnished in long lengths, specific cut lengths, or as a part preformed to a specific configuration. This hose is suitable for use in normal operating temperatures of 34 to 135 °C (29 to 275 °F) and intermittent use at 150°C (302 °F).

Don't skimp on EFI fuel lines given modern fuels with ethanol and _?_
Non rated "fuel" lines might work for a while, then they ALL fail due to what is in modern fuel.

There are alternatives like Parker 919

Nylon tubing specific to automotive fuel systems.

Do not use copper, galvanized steel, unknown "rubber"hose. Proper hose/tubing material choice is imperative as failure
=
Engine Compartment Fire and/or More..


Bernice
 
Rupunzell said:
Specifically for fuel lines:

SAE ~J30R9~ Specification:

Fuel Injection Hose Medium-Pressure Coupled and Uncoupled Synthetic Rubber Tube and Cover (SAE 30R9)
Hose primarily intended to meet the demands of fuel injection systems. These would include, for example, electronic fuel metering (EFM), electronic fuel injection (EFI), throttle body injection (TBI), and the like. Other areas of utility are those applications requiring fuel permeation resistance exceeding 30R8 and ones which require fuel resistance greater than that obtainable with 30R6, 7, and 8. Exposure of this hose to gasoline or diesel fuel that contains high levels, greater than 5% by volume, of oxygenates, i.e., ethanol, methanol, or MTBE may result in significantly higher permeation rates than realized with ASTM Fuel C. This hose may be supplied in either a coupled or uncoupled form, and is useful in the transportation of gasoline, ethanol extended gasoline, diesel fuel, lubrication oil, or the vapor present in either the fuel system or the crankcase of internal combustion engines in mobile, stationary, and marine applications. This hose has a maximum working pressure of 0.69 MPa (100 psi) up to and including 12.70 mm (1/2 in) ID. This hose may be furnished in long lengths, specific cut lengths, or as a part preformed to a specific configuration. This hose is suitable for use in normal operating temperatures of 34 to 135 °C (29 to 275 °F) and intermittent use at 150°C (302 °F).

Don't skimp on EFI fuel lines given modern fuels with ethanol and _?_
Non rated "fuel" lines might work for a while, then they ALL fail due to what is in modern fuel.

There are alternatives like Parker 919

Nylon tubing specific to automotive fuel systems.

Do not use copper, galvanized steel, unknown "rubber"hose. Proper hose/tubing material choice is imperative as failure
=
Engine Compartment Fire and/or More..


Bernice
Click to expand...

Yup, the Belmetric hose meets SAEJ30, up to E85 fuel, and has a 145 PSI working pressure, which is why I recommended it.
 
Yeah fuel lines are something that I had just ordered. I went with SAE30R9 which seems to cover every type of fuel and temperature along with a 900 PSI rating.. Big time overkill for the X, but it should do better than what is on the car now. Somewhere along the way someone replaced one of the fuel lines coming from the filter with a hose that literally turned my hands black because it was decaying..
 
The water pump I found in the box of goodies appears to be from Midwest Bayless and is in the image..
 

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ecohen2 said:
I went with SAE30R9 which seems to cover every type of fuel and temperature along with a 900 PSI rating.. Big time overkill for the X, but it should do better than what is on the car now. Somewhere along the way someone replaced one of the fuel lines coming from the filter with a hose that literally turned my hands black because it was decaying..
Click to expand...

No such hose as "overkill" as the very best hoses made will simply last longer and have much reduced possibility of failure..
Plumbing/hoses are the other most often neglected/taken for granted item in motos.. It is only when plumbing/hoses fail frantic-panic occurs.
Many times, plumbing/hoses failures results in catastrophic events like complete mech failure to the moto burning to the ground and possible fatalities...

Another "penny wise_pound foolish" item.. just like nuts/bolts/screws/washers... seeming insignificant low buck item that is all between driver/occupant and total-utter disaster..


Bernice
 
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