Help with Spider (Spider owner content)

D

DuaneEstill

Banned User
Must be the winter induced bugs or something....

83' Spider just decided not to start the other day. Turns over for as long as you care to hold the key, but won't hit.

The coil-distributor wires all arc and everything.

I've heard of the coolant temp in the T going bad....but I've never tried to look at that, though I've changed out T's before, how does one go about doing this?

Any other ideas?
 
Quick check...

You say you got spark?

Try starting fluid for a quick check.
If your timing is correct and you've got spark, it should kick over pretty quick.
If your timing is off, watch your hands! :eek:
If it's fuel related, it'll die just as quick too, but you'll know it''s not ignition or timing related. Good luck....
 
Got spark...

Verified spark from coil yesterday.

I drove it to my studio the other day, got in it, ran sluggish for a second then nothing. Just spins.

I'm going to verify fuel pump today.

Anybody know about that T stat housing coolant sensor?
 
I think I remember posts that say it's not a show-stopper. IIRC when defective it will always have the LJet system running rich because in failure mode it sends a signal that the engine is cold and thus needs more fuel.

But that's just from memory of other posts, don't take that to the bank until an FI guy confirms.
 
Coolant Sensor in tee...

It measures coolant temp and the ECU richens/leans mix accordingly (O2 sensor refines this above idle and below Wide Open Throttle or WOT).

Sensor can be checked using VOM. Remove wire harness plug, carefully touch tester leads to metal tabs inside sensor plug. Desired values are 2500-3000 ohms cold, 250-300 ohms hot. Outside of these general values will lead to flooding, lean condition or no start, can fail either way. Lean hot no-start is common due to heat soak. Also check the harness plug itself for corrosion, loose connection, broken wires, etc.

Fuel pump check is easy; turn key on, push flap of AFM open. Pump should run (audible hum). If not, check that dual relay connector isn't loose, check fuel pump ground at taillight stud (common overheating area).

ECU switches injector grounds according to pulse from coil; make sure coil connection (separate yellow wire?) is connected and clean/tight. Another good test option is a "noid" light, which is a special test light for injector harness plugs.

Also check for air leaks, and make sure timing belt is not stripped.
 
My '81 Spider left me dead on the side of the road once... with similar symptoms to yours... starter cranked fine... had spark, but engine would not fire... Turned out to be the main fuse to the ECU... which on my car is located in its own holder under the dash, driver's side, up close to the clutch pedal pivot...

Fuse was fine, but the holder had disintegrated...

I remember it taking me an embarassingly long time to find that fault...

Good luck...
 
Update

Replaced the ECU fuse. Had someone to turn over the ignition whilst touching the fuel pump, I could feel it activate. Replaced other fuses that looked somewhat nasty.

Sprayed ether in the intake and it runs momentarily.

I'm running out of options here.

I'm wondering if I'm having some sludge in the filter that's clogging it up.

Does anyone know exactly what to look for on the T-stat sensor or do you just replaced the T.
 
Duane...

Well... you have proven it is NOTa spark issue, but a fuel delivery issue.

The following guide is what I use to diagnose the X1/9 system and I betcha it is similar to the 2000. I suggest you follow it in a LOGICAL sequence and it SHOULD take you to a LOGICAL conclusion.

Being OLD, I have to download and actually PRINT this out, then read it cover to cover... then walk through the sequence.

If you don't, then you'll be huntin' 'n peckin' all over the place like you were doing with the SPARK side of the equation.

Good luck... See if you can recruit some help as two heads are usually better than one...

http://www.angelfire.com/wa2/fits/index.html#ljetguide
 
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