how to remove the two bolts on the bottom of the overflow tank

The o-ring/collar around the stat itself is to seal flow within the piping of the cooling system. If you think of the stat as a valve that opens and shuts, the collar prevents coolant from seeping around the edges of the stat when the stat is closed, fully shutting off interior flow, in this case toward the radiator.

The paper gasket on the stat cover to stat housing mating surfaces is there to prevent coolant from leaking to the outside of the piping of the cooling system.
 
copper anti-seize?

I went to the local Napa and picked up a few items including anti-seize lubricant which I explained is for steel bolts into an aluminum housing and they gave me Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant Item#765-2569, is that what I want to use?
 
radiator cap parts in my overflow tank!

and a crack in my cap. Guess this couldn't have helped matters. Thought this would cause overheating not underheating.

Picked up the tank and heard something rattling inside, looks like a pressure relief, then I noticed the crack in the cap. The rubber thing wass just sitting loose in the top, don't know if thats supposed to be attached to something.

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I seem to have a couple of tubes of the aluminum/silver looking anti-seize, but I suppose if the NAPA guys say the copper stuff works, too, go with it.

You could always check at the website of the maker of the compound, ie, if it's Permatex AS compound, check their site to be sure.
 
I looked at the permatex site

Napa online says that is who makes it, and the copper technical sheet mentions spark plugs in aluminum heads and engine bolts, so I used it.
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
The paper gasket on the stat cover to stat housing mating surfaces is there to prevent coolant from leaking to the outside of the piping of the cooling system.
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This still actually makes no sense, since the rubber seal seats in the visible groove in the outer cup, and I would assume that the mating surface is flat. Volvo's all use this arrangement, and no gasket is necessary. I have the gasket (very thick) from Bayless, and the ID is smaller than the OD of the rubber seal, in other words, they will conflict as far I can see. Is it possible that early models used the gasket and later just the seal? I'll be doing my T/stat in the next couple of days, because mine takes an extremely long time (at least 20mins) to get to normal op. temp.
 
That hose

looks like it might be the fuel line coming out of the tank at the bottom.
If your car is running then it must be a spare or a leftover...
 
looking in the online manual

it shows the water pump housing, then a rubber seal, then the t-stat, then the gasket and finally the housing cover. So it looks like the t-stat was sandwiched between a rubber seal on top and a paper gasket on bottom.

I wonder if originally the rubber gasket did not wrap around the edge of the thermostat (more like a squared off O-Ring) and was a separate part. Now they come with a seal which wraps around the edge?
 
dropped in or put there for vibration?

I was wondering if maybe the air cleaners vibrate and maybe someone shoved it in there as a vibration absorption, or it just got dropped in and forgotten about.
 
do we need tha paper gasket at all?

lookforjoe said:
This still actually makes no sense, since the rubber seal seats in the visible groove in the outer cup, and I would assume that the mating surface is flat. Volvo's all use this arrangement, and no gasket is necessary. I have the gasket (very thick) from Bayless, and the ID is smaller than the OD of the rubber seal, in other words, they will conflict as far I can see. Is it possible that early models used the gasket and later just the seal? I'll be doing my T/stat in the next couple of days, because mine takes an extremely long time (at least 20mins) to get to normal op. temp.
Click to expand...

If early models used a rubber gasket which did not surround the t-stat edge and used a rubber gasket for the top, and a paper gasket for the bottom, and new t-stats come with a wrap around rubber gasket do we need the paper gasket? Not to mention we save a few bucks.
 
kayaker37 said:
If early models used a rubber gasket which did not surround the t-stat edge and used a rubber gasket for the top, and a paper gasket for the bottom, and new t-stats come with a wrap around rubber gasket do we need the paper gasket? Not to mention we save a few bucks.
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Since the rubber seal encompasses the t/stat lip, it has to seal the outer housing to the main housing. I don't see the need for the outermost triangular paper gasket. When I do mine, I'll dry run the assembly to check whether it's necessary. Basically, if the outer housing compresses the seal when the three bolts are tightened, the gasket is redundant. IMO.
 
I refuse to use "Tinnerman" clip nuts on anything. Cheap they are, but fought with problems.

I used clip nuts to replace the stock hardware, much easier to install and remove.

A 10mm "flex socket" or universal joint socket on a long_ish extension and a long 10mm wrench (back side nuts) works nicely to remove the stock hardware.

Bernice

LarryC said:
You know, those little clip on spring steel things that clip around a sheet metal edge. Unless they have been removed, you should be good to go as is with just the socket wrench. If not...you need to get a small box end wrench in there or something.
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done, holding at just below 190F

Followed C. Obert's tech notes on bleeding air out of the system. Although I was expecting to hear air hissing out of the front radiator valve, I left it open till I heard fluid dribbling out, but otherwise followed the directions and repeated a lot of the steps.

After driving it around should I still crack that front valve after I park it, or is that not a good idea?

Removed the large trunk access plate, sure gives easy access to those two lower bolts!

Thanks everyone,
Paul
 
warming up during drive

Just took the car out, it's 58 F outside. At 2 miles it hit 120F, at 4 miles 155F, at 5 miles midway between 155 and 190, and at 6 miles it settled in to 2 dots below 190, doing a fairly steady 35mph. Hit an intersection where a black Subaru blew across me at high speed, so I followed and then it just hit the 190 mark. Who says these are slow? He got stuck behind a Prius (thank you Toyota) at which point he passed and I got stuck due to oncoming traffic, and I had to turn off up ahead anyway.

Looks like the temps are fine, time to battle my cars other ills.
 
Go in through the rear access panel...

... and then do NOT re-install them.

I've run my plastic tank for over ten years with just the top two bolts with no adverse affects.
 
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