is there any difference inside X master clutch cylinders?

Gary McCormick

True Classic
I have been trying for a long time to get clutch working properly since installing new master clutch cylinder over winter. clutch seems to work for a very short while after bleeding (I mean a few shifts before starting engine; slave cylinder rod moves about an inch at those times, easy to move into and out of each gear, then when I start car, pedal goes to floor and stays there).

now I see on Xweb that some clutch pedals have a stop, while my '79 does not. might OEM clutch master cylinders have been different inside for models that did not have stop on back of clutch pedal.
 
All models the same.

What I have found is that the when the master goes change the slave as well. Here is the problem DOT 3 brake fuild abzorbs moisture and in Canada we have very humid days in the Great lake areas. Today 90%. The brake fuild abzobs the moisture then in the winter condenses and goes to the lowest part of the system, which is the slave cylinder. This corrodes the slave cylinder and you have no clutch. Change both master and slave and use Dot 5 silicone as it will not abzorb moisture from the air. It has been 16 years since I have changed my master and slave and fuild.

You could stay with Dot 3 but change it every 2 years to get rid of the moisture.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
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