New battery time?

budgetzagato

budgetzagato

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The past couple of times I've gone to drive the X (including to Mac's memorial) it almost wouldn't start.

After topping off the battery with a smart charger, the voltage drops rapidly from nearly 14v (as supplied by charger) to under 12.5v. Seems to stabilize around 12.2. This makes it slow to crank, and therefore hard to start.

Seems like it's "not holding a charge" as they say. The current (heh) battery is an Excide 840, group 34. Fits well, lots of CCA.

I can't find a receipt for it and I'm pretty good about that sort of thing so I think it may be that it came with the car. I'll keep looking.

No real point to this post other than looking for reassurance that the battery is dying, but really a bench load test is the best way to find that out. :rolleyes:
 
The x is a small under powered car. Everyone is always trying to save a little weight here and there to compensate for that. I have replaced the batteries in my cars with one from a 95 Acura Integra. Its alot smaller and fully capable of handling what ever the x requires. Just a thought.
 
Having 12.2 volts in your battery is not necessarily bad. A volt meter will only tell you the voltage you have but not the amperage capacity to sustain the voltage. You are right the only way to now the condition of you battery is to load test it. But, it can be done in your car. Most auto parts shop will test it for free while it is in your car. Make sure your battery cable connections are CLEAN... I have seen more battery's replaced in car because of dirty or loose connections. Next,this is not a fix but something that will help. The electrical system is only as good as its weakest link. Installing a larger gauge battery cable from the battery to the back will in able more cranking amps to get to the starter. And not that this is your problem but advanced ignition timing with also make for hard starting. Last but not least, do not over look you battery's grounding point to the cars body:)
 
Greg, simple test, but

You'll need your wife to help. :happy:

Get a simple voltmeter and place the leads directly across the battery.
Look at the voltage (should read 12.6 V ideally) and ask your wife to start the car.
While she does it, LOOK at the voltage reading of the battery.

If the battery is good, it should NOT read less than 12V.
If the battery is bad, it'll read less. 10.5V indicates a weak cell and time to change out the battery.

This is the "poor mans" load test.

The X1/9 starter typically takes a couple hundred amps at a whack to start the car, so this load test
will bring out a weak or dying battery.

If the voltage does NOT go below (say) 11.5 volts, I would check the ground wire from the battery to the chassis.
If you haven't already changed it to a 4Ga wire, ($5 at your auto parts store) then you should do it.
Don't forget to install a star washer between the lead and the chassis.

Let us know your findings, and good luck!
 
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Battery connections. On that note, I have an 02 Ranger edge. On the way to work a few months ago, stopped for coffee. Came out , truck would not crank over. Was fine with no signs till this happened. Called triple A . they couldnt get it jump started, tried everything. The guy finally tells me I need a new battery, he has one on his truck that will fit. I decline and got it towed home. I cut about 8 inches off the positive battery cable at the battery end, the cable looked corroded inside. Installed a new fitting that I had sitting around and it fired right up. Cranks right up every time till this day.I would replce the whole cable, but the damn thing is integrated into the engine harness and Im sure would be very costly. Almost bought a battry that I didnt need.
 
Thanks. Also, as Spiderrey points out

It could also be the Positive lead off the battery.
I've seen them where the copper wire INSIDE the battery terminal goes bad.

Also, digging deeper, it's possible the starter motor is on it's way out, but I'd put that 3rd down on the list.
 
As BobB said, but if yur SINGLE...

Simply place it or tape it UPSIDE DOWN on the windshield.

Now you can see it from the driver's seat, check for static voltage, LOAD test, and charging... and with a bit more tape... a tour of the neighborhood!
 
Else stop by a Batterys Plus and have them check it.

My battery died in my X on one of the last drives this year. Turned out It was not the battery but a bad subwoofer....... Pulled the wire and no problem since... It sat 4 weeks in 30 degree temp and started right up Yesterday.
 
Thanks folks...

I'll be taking the battery in to be tested later today. :geek:

Grounds and other battery wires and connections clean and tight. Battery ground is about 4g. :thumbsup:

Will check to make sure my amp/subwoofer switch is off just for good measure. :dunce:
 
New one in.

A new group 34 battery fitted. I had to trim the stupid handle tabs of so it could set fully. Once that was done it snugged right down.

The unforseen trouble under the stock late plastic tray was not so easy to deal with:

IMG_9276.jpg
:censored:

Oh, and my ground is 6g not 4g. Oh well, still pretty stout.
 
Welp... that stuff happens Greg...

I like to use a bit of Baking Soda and water or a Diet Coke if I have one at hand.

Does a good job of neutralizing the acid... then ya can dry it and use the many different options available to slow its progress or stop it completely.

Sooooo, how did the battery test... probably sulfate-ed a bit and wouldn't stand a load, huh?

My local Honda dealer did me a service last time I took the wife's car in and actually load-tested the battery, just because. It was supposed to be rated at 550 cold cranking amps and would not do better than 300. Battery was close to 7 years old... and this time I was able to avoid problems by installing a new one now... without necessarily tossing out a "good" battery.

At least... they sure convinced me! HA!

Glad yur back in business...
 
Bad cell...

It was on year 6 of its 7 year warranty. Not my purchase so no pro-rating. Came with the X from Val.

Battery showed discharged despite having been on the charger, and only about 25% of the cranking amps, so about 200. No wonder it was "sluggish". Oh well, it lasted a few years. Worked well when it did.
 
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