New member in So Cal looking for a X1/9

T

timster

Low Mileage
I am in Ridgecrest, CA, about 2.5 hours northeast of LA.

Not particularly picky on year, just would like something solid and hopefully a driver. I am looking for a driver/project car hopefully in the LA area. If not, then maybe a good deal on something I can drive home. Prefer a 5 speed, a/c would be nice, and so would fuel injection but none of those would be deal breakers. Prefer to not mess with a roller project unless it was a solid body car and free or close to it.

If you know of a car that might fit the bill, feel free to email or PM me.

Thanks.

Tim
 
Welcome Tim...

Living at altitude you would most likely want an FI car and somewhat better "comfort" with A/C that a later model offers. That would be a late '80 to '87 locally... there are some '88's and the later the better for you.

Do look here in this section for many posts, along with Ebay, Craig's List and Hemming's.

Do also post what ya find here and ask for OPINIONS and possibly for one of us that lives nearby to look it over for you. Unless its some outstanding deal, they rarely sell fast so you have time to scrutinize them. A couple posted here recently though were such good deals they were gone in a heartbeat! HA!

Lastly... living where you do, especially... you'll haveta WANT to work on your own car... and figure 2 hours for every hour driven.

Think about it... and hope you join us.
 
Thanks for the reply Tony.

I can do most of the basic things. I have swapped engines, transmissions, converted to disc brakes in 60's/70's Ford F100s. Some minor bodywork such as patching floors and inner fenders. Those are easy vehicles to work on, lots of room and pretty simple vehicles. A FI Fiat would be different, but hopefully not too overwhelming.

Saw an interesting add on LA craigslist: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4715914753.html

I asked the seller why it was a parts car and was told it hasn't been registered for 20 years. They bought it with a bill of sale 2 years ago and was told by the DMV that the car is no longer in the system, and not sure I understand, but "no smog". I don't know if they mean all the pollution stuff was removed or if they mean no records of it having been checked for pollution compliance. I have only been in California a couple of months, but is this really how it goes, there is no recourse to get it titled and legally on the road?

Looks like a pretty good candidate if it could be titled, but they all look good online in a 3"x4" photo. Or maybe it is just a parts car due to unseen damage or the title issues?
 
Well, if the buyer only has the bill of sale and not the title, then that might be why it is being offered up as "parts".
In order to register it, one would have to locate the last registered owner of record and have them apply for a duplicate title.
 
Lien Sale

You could also do a lien sale. I am not sure on all the details but that is how I got my X1/9. I got it from a mechanic who had it in his shop for several years. He did the lien sale but I still had to pay some of the non-paid registration fees on the car.

You most likely need a smog. Not knowing if the car will pass smog will be a gamble. In CA it is the sellers responsiblity to get the car smogged unless the buyer is ok without a smog. Maybe this is why the seller said it is a parts car.

Good luck.
 
Looks awful good to be a parts car. This is an 81' EFI. If the engine and associated parts are in reasonable condition, it should be able to pass smog once sorted.

Be ready to replace all of the hoses and related bits as LA smog would have eaten that stuff up alive, adding age to this, every hose and related is likely past done.

To register, it will need a bill of sale, VIN number verification by the DMV or CHP. Have done this with another car years ago. It was not that difficult to get done. Check with AAA (wait line is much less) or DMV to have them help you with step by step instructions.


81' is a good year for an exxe.


Bernice


timster said:
Wonder why the current owner didn't try this route. Unless the PO had died and was an estate sale.
Click to expand...
 
Rupunzell, I was thinking the same thing. I emailed the seller and asked if I could get the VIN, to do a check on it and if they had any contact info for the prior owner. The current seller could be totally legit but the person that sold it to them might be hiding a salvage title or something else.

I spoke with the Ca DMV. Person I spoke with was very helpful and explained all the steps to take which didn't seem very hard, but I won't get into here.
 
Tim... everything, everyone said...

and more.

1. This is a great PROJECT car for the money... all that you would want. That is... if the passenger side is as good as the driver's.

2. I get to Northridge about 2 - 3 times a week. If you want, set it up with the seller and I'll go take a peek at it with more photos. From what I see, its rather UNMOLESTED except for all the fuzzy junk and shag carpeting. Call me at 661-296-7277.

3. This guy is selling this car for PARTS because of the problems associated with the TITLE and past REGISTRATION and SMOG TEST issues. In CA, the seller is required to ensure the car passes smog test and the tests have to be done within 30 days of the sale, lest they be tested again. Getting a NEW title is a hassle like any other state, registering it there MAY be past fees involved that could run a lot a money.

4. Go to CA DMV and look for details concerning tests and "referees" and engine swaps. Unless you wanna get into some big bucks I doubt they would allow many exceptions. As far as "dropping out of the system... Even if you register your car as "Non-Op" the state will only do this for 7 years and then just stop sending you notices. In my case, I went to register my car just after the 7 year limit and hadta have it inspected all over again.

5. Like I said, this is a great PROJECT car but there are many others out there for 3X the price that would probably be a better fit for you, being a newbie. It the $$$ are a problem, then you could reconsider this one. BTW, everything you ever thought you knew working on Fords will need to be reassessed when it comes to working on these cars. Do check here first before attempting to even change the oil or the air in the tires!

let me know if I can help...
 
Timster,

I don't know if you saw this one. Follow the email threads as the owner is down to $1500 and it is very tempting.

http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?posts/210999/

For squirts and giggles, I got some shipping quotes and they varied from about $750-$1100 to the left coast. If interested, you might want to request more photos and mileage as I don't think that's mentioned.

Mike
 
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Tony, thanks for the post. I emailed back the seller on Friday asking some simple questions with no reply. Stuff like do you remember the name of the person you bought it from, could you send me the VIN # so I could run a check on it, does the car drive enough to get it on a trailer or tow dolly. No reply yet. Other than the VIN, which I would understand due to all the scammers, maybe I ask too many questions.

Mbusman, I PM'ed the seller almost a week ago but have not heard back.

Also, there is a third car Aspen Import Auto put me in touch with. But seems all the pollution controls are gone. I have a post started on this car here: http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?posts/217502/
 
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Rupunzell said:
Looks awful good to be a parts car. This is an 81' EFI. If the engine and associated parts are in reasonable condition, it should be able to pass smog once sorted.

Bernice
Click to expand...

I am off work tomorrow (I work for the Navy and it's veteran's day), and was finally able to get a hold of the owner and make arrangements to see the car tomorrow.

So I will look for rust, obvious hacking and rigging of wiring, brakes, etc. Any other ideas? Not sure if I can get under it to look it over, but maybe I will find a small mirror and between that and feeling around get a better idea of what it is like. I am sure the seats are a bit funky under the covers. Should be able to lift the carpet enough to get a peak at the floors. Is there any sort of buyers checklist posted on this site?
 
Tim,

You're getting advice from the SoCal X 1/9 owners all thumbs award winner, so beware.

Although it's not registered, see if you can get a long enough test drive on the road at speed to see if it holds coolant temp at about 190 deg. Then see if the radiator fans cycle when stopped at a traffic signal or just stopped on the side of the road to hold the temp about 190. Check fluid levels and check for leaks. See if it shifts smoothly. You mentioned you can do a lot of work yourself, so that is a plus. As others have suggested, see what you can get for documentation to get it registered. Hopefully it will pass smog. I found on mine that the cat does the most work to meet emissions even with an EGR system that I doubt has worked since I bought my X. Check any maintenance records if they exist to see what has been done. Turn on the heat to see if the heater control valve works. Bring a can of parts cleaner spray to see if it gets sucked in at the intake and exhaust manifolds.

At the price being asked, if you can register it I think it will be a good deal if you can sort out minor repairs. Don't forget Tony or to post if you need a wrenching party to work on it. There a number of people here that would be willing to help out. We work cheap for beer and pizza and you supply the parts.

Other than that, it's up to your impressions of the X. Being a sailor, you should be in a good position to evaluate the boilers, feedwater pumps, deaerator, etc.

Let us know your decision.

Mike
 
Since it's sat a long time,

you can probably count on having to replace the brake an clutch master cylinders. If the seals have dried up and you start to exercise these items, they will probably start to leak. Replacement is not an easy job unless you're a contortionist.

Mike
 
Battery question

This X is missing a battery. I put a new battery in my Subaru a year ago, but it was a pita. Unless you buy the Subaru brand battery, from what I found everything else was about a 1/4" taller. What's a 1/4"? The difference between getting the battery in and fighting it for 1/2" an hour at the Autozone parking lot on a cold, wet, and windy day.

So, not wanting to repeat that scene, how dicey is it to just run jumper cables from the battery to the Fiat battery cables? Eliminates the test drive - assuming it starts.
 
Thanks

mbusman said:
At the price being asked, if you can register it I think it will be a good deal if you can sort out minor repairs. Don't forget Tony or to post if you need a wrenching party to work on it. There a number of people here that would be willing to help out. We work cheap for beer and pizza and you supply the parts.

Let us know your decision.

Mike
Click to expand...

Be careful, I might remember that offer!
 
looked at the 81 today

Seems like a good project car. Didn't try to start it, was looking like rain and I mentioned before about the issues getting the battery into my Subaru Forester. As sure as I would have pulled the battery out of my car the skies would have opened up. Car was in a fenced in yard so no obvious way to drive back and hook up jumper cables - doubt they would have went for that anyway.

No obvious rust other than some surface stuff under the battery tray and under the mats in the trunks. Has been repainted, apparently in the frunk as well, as some of the wires in there are now brown. Don't think it is an A/C car, unless the compressor mounts incredibly low and is hidden from site. Do all 81's have an A/C switch on the heater control panel regardless of how they are optioned?

Mike, I sent you a PM. Or give me a call if you would rather do that. I will send a 2nd PM with my number.
 
Hi Timster -- the 81 you looked at has or had A/C -- you can tell by the HVAC control panel on the dash. However, you'd need to check to understand if all the other parts (compressor, evaporator, lines, etc.) are still intact and I couldn't tell from the craigslist photos.

With respect to rust, you've got to take a good look at the tops and undersides of the strut towers. Should also pull the mat in the trunk and remove four screws which hold the metal shelf so you can expose the area most prone to rot back there.

If it were me, I'd still hold-out for the Arkansas car at $1,500 plus shipping :)
 
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