No power, overheating...No FFO!

Lambertta X1/9

Lambertta X1/9

Michael L
I've been working on my X for the past couple of months making cosmetic improvements. Taking off the late model bumpers, installing euro bumpers, fixing rust spots and spot painting, Abarth steering wheel. I took my 1980 carbed X out this evening for a drive to test her out before driving to Asheville. I haven't driving her much this year due to working on her, but the last time she drove fine. She has been leaking a little oil (leaves about a nickel sized spot on the drive way after parking. Also has been blowing some puffy white smoke when first starting. I knew these problems needed attention but I've concentrating on what she looks like, and honestly what I could do easily...I'm no mechanic.

Anyhow, when I started her she blew a lot of smoke and burned a lot of oil off the exhaust manifold (I guess). I was driving for about 15 minutes no problem, then when I shift into 3rd...no power. I downshift to 2nd, run the rpm's up, shift to 3rd no power. Run the rpms way up, shift to 3rd some power, but not normal takes forever to get to 45 mph. I limp home about 2 miles going 35 - 40 mph. I notice during all this the water temp is climbing and by the time I get home its almost in the red.

So, I guess I'll be going to FFO X-less, damn-it all. I was excited about taking her. :sad:

Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Michael
 
Pull the plugs & check compression.

Oil smoke on startup is often valve seals, but that wouldn't cause overheating. .....
 
Do you still have a catalytic converter?

If so, after the compression test, if it has decent compression, disconnect the pipe before it goes into the catalytic converter and retest. Catalytic converters can get plugged (from age, oil, fuel) and will get worse the more you drive and try to flow exhaust through them. Hope that's it, it's an easy fix.
Dave
 
Common headgasket checks

Given the power loss, overheating and white smoke description, I'd suspect a headgasket failure.

Check coolant level first. Look at the underside of the oil cap for chocolate shake appearance, this is coolant getting into the oil.

Look in the coolant reservoir to see if there's oil contamination. Oil will float on the surface and film the sides of the tank.

To test for compression leaking into the cooling system, open the coolant expansion tank cap to relieve any pressure, reinstall. Start engine, after about 30 seconds to a minute, open cap. If pressure has built in that short of a time, it's likely from combustion getting into the system.

If you have a compression tester, use it and compare cylinders. Also, many compression tester kits can work as a leakdown tester as well; that is you pressurize a cylinder from an air compressor and listen for leaks... bubbles in the coolant expansion tank are a bad sign.
 
All good advice...

But also bear in mind that not every head gasket failure involves a water/oil breach. I have had them burn out between cylinders, resulting in little/no compression on adjacent cylinders but no breach of coolant or oil passages. That's why I'd start with a compression test.

I have also had a spun rod bearing that produced exactly the symptoms you describe - increasing loss of power, overheating. But it was also accompanied by a loud rod knock - any noise to report?

Pete
 
Michael... I've said this 1000 times...

But I bet you have a clogged carb...

Pull the 4 rods/tube between the two venturis in the carb... Use a CORRECLY SIZED screwdriver so that you don't mess up the brass.... and keep them in ORDER... DON'T MIX THEM UP.

Now carefully pull them apart on a WHITE rag and note any crud or black debri or sludge. Clean them and insure there is lightcoming through the small orifices... the reinstall and see if it runs better or differently. If so... the ya need to pull the carb and "boil it out" with a DIP in a carb cleaner bucket... and then flush and blow out all orifices...

Install new fuel lines, especially AFTER a new fuel filter... and you'll be OK for FFO.

As for the overheating and compression... ya may have just overstressed the situation trying to get this thing home... but do perform a compression test as well as a PRESSURE test on the system and the CAP to be sure also.

Sorry for your trouble... HTH...
 
Thanks for all the great responses

I work 8 to 7 so I haven't had time to get a compression tester yet and do that. When I got home from work I checked the water tank, there is definitely some oil getting in there. There is a sheen to it and a smell and when I rub my finger around the tank it is oilly. I checked the oil cap, no chocolate substance, but the oil looks awful "thin" and the level is still at the top mark even though its been leaking oil. The oil was last changed about 200 miles ago, and I also flushed the radiator about the same time when I replaced my heater control valve.

There was no noise associated with the loss of power...so hopefully thats good.

I do have a catalytic converter still. I plan on loosing it when I upgrade my exhaust. My X is old enough that in NC there is no emissions check.

I will check the carb as you suggest Tony, but I have to work tomorrow and then Thursday its FFO... so all this will have to wait until I get back.

Thank you all for your quick and informative replies,

Michael
 
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Sorry to read about the original posters problem... especially right before FFO (I've got local friends going!) but reading this thread and everyone suggestions is sort of cracking me up... it's one of those "You know you're a car geek...." moments.

Every problem listed I've personally experienced! Spun rod bearings, clogged carbs, blown headgaskets, corked cat convertors... it all reminds me of too much fun over the years! I bet the combined list of problems fixed by people on this board would be hilarious.

Timing sucks for the OP for certain...
 
mx5rush said:
snip...

Every problem listed I've personally experienced! Spun rod bearings, clogged carbs, blown headgaskets, corked cat convertors... it all reminds me of too much fun over the years! I bet the combined list of problems fixed by people on this board would be hilarious.

...snip.
Click to expand...

And an X is a pretty reliable car compared to many 25-35 year old cars, so just imagine trying to maintain most cars from the same time period.
 
when he said it was overheating slowly, clogged jets/carby/fuel lines/failing pump was my first guess, as this would make it run lean and hot.
 
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