Removing the O2 Sensor
- Thread starter Sparks
- Start date
No real tricks...
Use lots of penetrant...
Try using a torch to heat up the bung, but try to keep the sensor cool, even ice it. The temperature differential may help loosen things up. I also often try tightening a smidge (technical term equal to about 1/2 skoshe)
Eventually it should break loose.
Use lots of penetrant...
Try using a torch to heat up the bung, but try to keep the sensor cool, even ice it. The temperature differential may help loosen things up. I also often try tightening a smidge (technical term equal to about 1/2 skoshe)
Eventually it should break loose.
No luck yet....
I tried four cycles of bung heating & ice cubes on the sensor base, but nothing yet. Each time it's cool enough I hit it with some more PB. I'm thinking that the crush washer is keeping the penetrant out. I soaked it well, and will let it sit overnight...
Thanks for the input!
Brian, "in da UP"
I tried four cycles of bung heating & ice cubes on the sensor base, but nothing yet. Each time it's cool enough I hit it with some more PB. I'm thinking that the crush washer is keeping the penetrant out. I soaked it well, and will let it sit overnight...
Thanks for the input!
Brian, "in da UP"
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
You did NOT mention TIGHTENING it though...
If you have not tried that... do so.
Good luck... and be patent... it might even take a few MORE days... Sorry for your trouble!
If you have not tried that... do so.
Good luck... and be patent... it might even take a few MORE days... Sorry for your trouble!
Is that the sensor in the exhaust? I finally took the car out for a long drive (40 miles), came back and when everything was hot slipped a long wrench over it, so it was at about 11:00 position looking from the back. Took a long 2x2 three feet long, slipped that in from the right side under the air intake thing and reached in from the trunk access to align it on the wrench, then moved my left hand back to the striking end of the 2x2 to hold it in place. Then tapped with a framing hammer, and it came loose.
This was after it was all back together and running after painting the exhaust manifold and heat shield, because I tried for a week to get that sucker out of there.
This was after it was all back together and running after painting the exhaust manifold and heat shield, because I tried for a week to get that sucker out of there.
dcioccarelli
Dominic Cioccarelli
PB Blaster
Note that now that you have used PB Blaster on it (or any other penetrating oil) you will need to replace the O2 sensor (I'm assuming that was your plan anyway).
Cheers,
Dom.
Note that now that you have used PB Blaster on it (or any other penetrating oil) you will need to replace the O2 sensor (I'm assuming that was your plan anyway).
Cheers,
Dom.
Not likely...
... especially if the thing's still stuck. The threads are on the other side of the crush washer and aren't likely to be getting wet, let alone the sensor element.
... especially if the thing's still stuck. The threads are on the other side of the crush washer and aren't likely to be getting wet, let alone the sensor element.
And the cigar goes to Kayaker37!!
It's out!!! :excited: I'm not sure what the long ride does, but I was ready to try anything. Besides, I had to check out the new throttle cable I put in yesterday (another merit badge, for sure..), plus I wanted to check out the Fuel Injection re-mapping. Let's just say that 100 mph shows up awfully fast with Matt's new head!
When I got back from the ride, I used Greg's hint and melted a couple of ice cubes on the sensor only. Then Kayaker37's 11 o'clock wrench technique, plus a bigger hammer (3 lb), did the trick. I used a piece of 1X3, as it fits easily between the air plenum & the coachwork. The sensor came out hard all the way. Looking at the sensor, it's apparent that the crush washer prevented any PB Blaster from penetrating, plus the threads are severely galled & rounded. Rust & exhaust deposits completed the picture.
When I bought my X this winter, one of my first purchases was a comprehensive 110 pc tap & die set. The largest tap size included is an M18 x 1.5, which just happens to be the right one! Not my usual luck, I assure you... As the newly cut threads are dry, I used extra anti-seize on them, besides that which comes on the sensor, being careful not to have too much. Q-tip's work great for that.
Apologies to Greg & Tony for not mentioning that I had tried the tighten technique to no avail.
Thanks for all the suggestions & moral support, this group is the greatest!
Brian, "in da UP"
It's out!!! :excited: I'm not sure what the long ride does, but I was ready to try anything. Besides, I had to check out the new throttle cable I put in yesterday (another merit badge, for sure..), plus I wanted to check out the Fuel Injection re-mapping. Let's just say that 100 mph shows up awfully fast with Matt's new head!
When I got back from the ride, I used Greg's hint and melted a couple of ice cubes on the sensor only. Then Kayaker37's 11 o'clock wrench technique, plus a bigger hammer (3 lb), did the trick. I used a piece of 1X3, as it fits easily between the air plenum & the coachwork. The sensor came out hard all the way. Looking at the sensor, it's apparent that the crush washer prevented any PB Blaster from penetrating, plus the threads are severely galled & rounded. Rust & exhaust deposits completed the picture.
When I bought my X this winter, one of my first purchases was a comprehensive 110 pc tap & die set. The largest tap size included is an M18 x 1.5, which just happens to be the right one! Not my usual luck, I assure you... As the newly cut threads are dry, I used extra anti-seize on them, besides that which comes on the sensor, being careful not to have too much. Q-tip's work great for that.
Apologies to Greg & Tony for not mentioning that I had tried the tighten technique to no avail.
Thanks for all the suggestions & moral support, this group is the greatest!
Brian, "in da UP"
Good news...
Now before you install a new one, get a proper O2 sensor thread chaser and chase those threads, and install the new one with proper anti-seize (most come with it already on the threads) and tighten only as much as is needed to crush the sealing washer.
The chaser you want looks like this (but I don't think this is the one, it only lists the 14mm threads on the description):
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_3379_0100567522
Now before you install a new one, get a proper O2 sensor thread chaser and chase those threads, and install the new one with proper anti-seize (most come with it already on the threads) and tighten only as much as is needed to crush the sealing washer.
The chaser you want looks like this (but I don't think this is the one, it only lists the 14mm threads on the description):
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_3379_0100567522
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
No apologies necessary... congrats on finally...
... succeeding...
We're just grasping at straws here trying to help as many of us have BEEN THERE and know your misery!
Let us know how much difference the new sensor makes!
... succeeding...
We're just grasping at straws here trying to help as many of us have BEEN THERE and know your misery!
Let us know how much difference the new sensor makes!