Rim Bolt pattern
- Thread starter syata
- Start date
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
Or wobble bolts...
I am running 4x100 on my Scorpion using wobble bolts. Not common in the US, I had to get mine from the UK.
Pete
I am running 4x100 on my Scorpion using wobble bolts. Not common in the US, I had to get mine from the UK.
Pete
Also known as "PCD Varaiation Bolts"
Check out this web site. Scroll down a bit till you find them.
http://www.serpentautosport.com/wheel_accessories_lugs.htm
Check out this web site. Scroll down a bit till you find them.
http://www.serpentautosport.com/wheel_accessories_lugs.htm
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
My wheels haven't fallen off yet,
If that's what you mean.
Pete
If that's what you mean.
Pete
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
The cone, or "spacer" as you're calling it
is separate from the bolt head, in that one can turn while the other does not. It can also wobble around the shaft of the bolt, hence the name "wobble bolt".
If you look at an ordinary wheel bolt, the cone is integral with the bolt and the two are concentric. So as you tighten the bolt, the cone gets pushed deeper into the recess in the wheel that it fits into.
This works exactly the same way, except the bolt is not concentric with the cone. The cone is offset from the bolt by (wheel bolt circle diameter difference / 2). When adapting a 98mm hub to a 100mm wheel, each hole is off by 1mm ((100 - 98) / 2). So the bolt stays on the 98mm pattern (the hub pattern) and the cones stay on the wheels bolt pattern - 100mm. But the bolt provides the same clamping force (which is really what holds the wheel on) as in a normal situation, where the wheel and hub patterns match.
There is an illustration on the Serpent website Jim cites above that may help to illustrate this.
Pete
is separate from the bolt head, in that one can turn while the other does not. It can also wobble around the shaft of the bolt, hence the name "wobble bolt".
If you look at an ordinary wheel bolt, the cone is integral with the bolt and the two are concentric. So as you tighten the bolt, the cone gets pushed deeper into the recess in the wheel that it fits into.
This works exactly the same way, except the bolt is not concentric with the cone. The cone is offset from the bolt by (wheel bolt circle diameter difference / 2). When adapting a 98mm hub to a 100mm wheel, each hole is off by 1mm ((100 - 98) / 2). So the bolt stays on the 98mm pattern (the hub pattern) and the cones stay on the wheels bolt pattern - 100mm. But the bolt provides the same clamping force (which is really what holds the wheel on) as in a normal situation, where the wheel and hub patterns match.
There is an illustration on the Serpent website Jim cites above that may help to illustrate this.
Pete
Arizonax19
True Classic
Ive used these on hubcentic wheels with no issue...
but on a wheel with a larger center bore, i had a vibration at speed - 70/80 mph. After loosening and retorquing the lugs, it did improve but not completely.
So, If the wheel is hubcentric I think you are good to go with wobble bolts. However, if the center bore of the new wheel is larger, you may want to try to find "centering rings" or have some made. That would be the way to go IMHO.
T
but on a wheel with a larger center bore, i had a vibration at speed - 70/80 mph. After loosening and retorquing the lugs, it did improve but not completely.
So, If the wheel is hubcentric I think you are good to go with wobble bolts. However, if the center bore of the new wheel is larger, you may want to try to find "centering rings" or have some made. That would be the way to go IMHO.
T
X1/9Cruiser
True Classic
before you buy the Serpent bolts
Be aware that they are barely long enough for one spacer. If you run more than one steel spacer you'll have to get extended length wobble bolts (from the UK). They can be found on uk ebay.
Be aware that they are barely long enough for one spacer. If you run more than one steel spacer you'll have to get extended length wobble bolts (from the UK). They can be found on uk ebay.
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
That's probably true...
But without knowing the exact length of the wobble bolts and the exact thickness of the wheels flange, it's impossible to say for sure. Measure carefully.
Pete
But without knowing the exact length of the wobble bolts and the exact thickness of the wheels flange, it's impossible to say for sure. Measure carefully.
Pete
X1/9Cruiser
True Classic
Pete is right
It will be really close in most instances. Depending on the rims you have you may or may not get enough turns into the hub to be really safe. I will say that the quality of Serpent's bolts are excellent, better than the quality of the extended wobble bolts I got in the UK.
It will be really close in most instances. Depending on the rims you have you may or may not get enough turns into the hub to be really safe. I will say that the quality of Serpent's bolts are excellent, better than the quality of the extended wobble bolts I got in the UK.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Wait a minute... Am I too old, or...
... what?
In my mind... you have studs that are 98 mm apart and holes in the wheels 100 mm apart.
The 2 mm should be enough so that the wheel will NOT fit over the studs... without butchering or forcing them on. Wobble-bolts or Wobble-nuts I understood were for slotted holes in wheels after the wheel self-centered (lug-concentric) on the studs, usually.
I believe 4 x 98 to 4 x100 adapters are the best way to go here... I believe thay can be had for about 150 for four on Ebay.... and then the PROPER lug nuts or bolts should be used to fasten the adapter to the hub and the wheel to the adapter...
Good luck with your decision...
... what?
In my mind... you have studs that are 98 mm apart and holes in the wheels 100 mm apart.
The 2 mm should be enough so that the wheel will NOT fit over the studs... without butchering or forcing them on. Wobble-bolts or Wobble-nuts I understood were for slotted holes in wheels after the wheel self-centered (lug-concentric) on the studs, usually.
I believe 4 x 98 to 4 x100 adapters are the best way to go here... I believe thay can be had for about 150 for four on Ebay.... and then the PROPER lug nuts or bolts should be used to fasten the adapter to the hub and the wheel to the adapter...
Good luck with your decision...
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
I'm going to go with "what" over "too old"
But only cause I'm no spring chicken myself, Tony...
If you measure the wheel bolt diameter and the hole in the wheel, I think you will find at least 1mm of play. My Progressive 15x6's fit over my studs without interference. Bolts should have the same major diameter as the the studs, so they should be no different.
I have never heard that wobble nuts/bolts are for slotted holes, I don't even see how that would work. They are designed to fit into the cone-shaped recess that a normal wheel bolt fits into. All the slotted wheels I have seen have a flat face in the area of the slot, not a cone-shaped recess.
Pete
But only cause I'm no spring chicken myself, Tony...
If you measure the wheel bolt diameter and the hole in the wheel, I think you will find at least 1mm of play. My Progressive 15x6's fit over my studs without interference. Bolts should have the same major diameter as the the studs, so they should be no different.
I have never heard that wobble nuts/bolts are for slotted holes, I don't even see how that would work. They are designed to fit into the cone-shaped recess that a normal wheel bolt fits into. All the slotted wheels I have seen have a flat face in the area of the slot, not a cone-shaped recess.
Pete