Brad Christiansen
Low Mileage
I have a 1978 US X19, stumped on installing timing belt. Hints. Belt doesn't seem long enough, but I know it's correct belt. Thank you for your help.
Brad
Brad
Timing belt install
- Thread starter Brad Christiansen
- Start date
bb4re
86X 22,000 miles
Welcome to XWeb!
....here is one of the many links on this topic. The SEARCH function works great when you enter some keywords like TIMING BELT INSTALL...
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/6201/
There are many other features to this site we can show you around, as well. Never be afraid to ask anything.
....here is one of the many links on this topic. The SEARCH function works great when you enter some keywords like TIMING BELT INSTALL...
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/6201/
There are many other features to this site we can show you around, as well. Never be afraid to ask anything.
Last edited by a moderator:
Is the old belt off already?
Hi Brad,
Welcome to Xweb!
Since you have a 78 it is probably a 1300. Early 78s were still interference engines, although some late 78s had deeper valve reliefs in the piston tops to make them non-interference. That means there is a fair chance it is an interference engine. In an interference engine, the valves and pistons will come together in an unpleasant manner if the cam and crank are spun independently. Maybe you know all about this issue, but I figured I would throw it out for consideration.
If the old belt is still on, make sure you get very comfortable with the t-belt procedure before getting into the job.
Here is the online shop manual:
http://socalx.com/xhelp/shopmanual.htm
Here is the t-belt manual section:
http://www.socalx.com/xhelp/X1-9_101-06_10-69.pdf
Here is a thread I posted a while back:
http://www.xwebforums.org/showpost.php?p=59474&postcount=4
Good luck!!
Hi Brad,
Welcome to Xweb!
Since you have a 78 it is probably a 1300. Early 78s were still interference engines, although some late 78s had deeper valve reliefs in the piston tops to make them non-interference. That means there is a fair chance it is an interference engine. In an interference engine, the valves and pistons will come together in an unpleasant manner if the cam and crank are spun independently. Maybe you know all about this issue, but I figured I would throw it out for consideration.
If the old belt is still on, make sure you get very comfortable with the t-belt procedure before getting into the job.
Here is the online shop manual:
http://socalx.com/xhelp/shopmanual.htm
Here is the t-belt manual section:
http://www.socalx.com/xhelp/X1-9_101-06_10-69.pdf
Here is a thread I posted a while back:
http://www.xwebforums.org/showpost.php?p=59474&postcount=4
Good luck!!
Brad Christiansen
Low Mileage
Thank you. I'll try the ideas.
sdlsaginaw
Steven Lawson
Differences between 1300 and 1500
Be aware that the 1300 and 1500 cam pulleys are lined up differently.
The 1500 has a mark on the back of the pulley that lines up with a pointer on the back sheetmetal.
I believe the 1300 has a mark on the front of the pulley that lines up with a mark on the snail motor mount, though I've never done a 1300.
Also, remember that the distributor must be lined up with #4, not #1 as with most cars. This gets alot of people.
Be aware that the 1300 and 1500 cam pulleys are lined up differently.
The 1500 has a mark on the back of the pulley that lines up with a pointer on the back sheetmetal.
I believe the 1300 has a mark on the front of the pulley that lines up with a mark on the snail motor mount, though I've never done a 1300.
Also, remember that the distributor must be lined up with #4, not #1 as with most cars. This gets alot of people.
Correct belt, TOO SHORT, making you crazy?
The first time you do it, the belt feels way short and you don't see how it can ever go on properly. My first time, it took me hours, I had to give up and walk away a few times, I was almost weeping with frustration and ready to just burn the damned car...
To get the belt on:
First you need to pull the tensioner spring in the front (snail) engine mount all the way back and hold it there (visegrips on the shaft work). Then you can swing the tensioner pulley towards the snail mount and tighten the nut enough to hold it there. Chances are that you already did this as part of removing the old belt.
Then, start the new belt at the crankshaft pulley. Pull it as tight as you can before you wrap it over the aux shaft pulley, and then pull it as tight you can while wrapping it onto the camshaft pulley. You really need to pull it tight - it's really easy to get one too many teeth on the run from crank pulley to aux pulley to cam pulley, and if you do that you'll never get the damned thing on.
Now all of your remaining slack is on the back of the motor, between crank pulley and cam pulley. You will be able to just barely hook the edge of the belt over the edge of the tensioner pulley... and you twist it a bit straight and it just slips onto the tensioner. If it doesn't, start over again from the crank pulley, and get it TIGHT between crank and aux, and aux and cam this time.
Don't worry about moving the aux pulley - that just affects the distributor position, and you can correct that by rotating the dizzy when you're done. You do need to be careful to keep the cam timing mark lined up though, or the cam timing will be off and the car will run like crap.
The first time you do it, the belt feels way short and you don't see how it can ever go on properly. My first time, it took me hours, I had to give up and walk away a few times, I was almost weeping with frustration and ready to just burn the damned car...
To get the belt on:
First you need to pull the tensioner spring in the front (snail) engine mount all the way back and hold it there (visegrips on the shaft work). Then you can swing the tensioner pulley towards the snail mount and tighten the nut enough to hold it there. Chances are that you already did this as part of removing the old belt.
Then, start the new belt at the crankshaft pulley. Pull it as tight as you can before you wrap it over the aux shaft pulley, and then pull it as tight you can while wrapping it onto the camshaft pulley. You really need to pull it tight - it's really easy to get one too many teeth on the run from crank pulley to aux pulley to cam pulley, and if you do that you'll never get the damned thing on.
Now all of your remaining slack is on the back of the motor, between crank pulley and cam pulley. You will be able to just barely hook the edge of the belt over the edge of the tensioner pulley... and you twist it a bit straight and it just slips onto the tensioner. If it doesn't, start over again from the crank pulley, and get it TIGHT between crank and aux, and aux and cam this time.
Don't worry about moving the aux pulley - that just affects the distributor position, and you can correct that by rotating the dizzy when you're done. You do need to be careful to keep the cam timing mark lined up though, or the cam timing will be off and the car will run like crap.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Just adding my Welcome, Brad...
Let us know how it goes...
Let us know how it goes...