What does your temp gauge read?

HazN

HazN

True Classic
New thermostat (180°F) and temperature sender on my '86 X, filled and bled. Took her out for a mildly spirited run. Originally (for the last 16 years), the gauge was always below the 190°F, usually one, sometimes two clicks below. Now it's at 190°F and a click above. It's still in the normal range and am not worried (unless I get stuck in trafic), but I was wondering what the practical norm is.

Thanks!

Haz
 
The temp sensors can read a bit different, one to another....

I did some back to back to back tests one time to convince myself. No other changes to the system, and one read a bit above 190*F, the other two at 190.

No concern.

Ciao,
 
Why did you change out the stat???

Sounds like it was working good before as well as after.

For a more thorough read, read my Thermostat 102 post in vesion 1.0, Best Of.

Additionally, my car runs at 185 almost 100% of the time as indicated and also with TWO of Mama's Turkey Thermometers stuck in the reservoir as a reference.

I think you're probably OK... Try this test:

Idle your car to operating temp and then turn on the heater and fan. Your temp guage should DROP about 20 degrees almost immediately. Then, within a minute or two... return back to 190 degrees. If so... your stat is operating properly! If is stays down... its not!
 
mine stays at 155 deg

is that too low, and is that related to my problems with cold starting, in that it takes a couple of tries to cold start it? Starts right up after it warm.

Paul
 
Not related...

That is too low, it is not running at proper operating temp. It should reach 180ºF or better. This cold running will reduce mileage and increase wear. Your thermostat is probably sticking open.

If it stays at this temp even after a long freeway drive then I'd suspect the sender or gauge is not quite right.

Your fuel pressure may be bleeding out via the fuel pump check valve (built into the pump) or via a leaking injector. A fuel pressure test would tell you what is happening there. Should hold and stay at ~38psi overnight and longer.
 
turning on the heat didn't really change anything

I just took it out for the usual 23 mile country road loop, and the highest it hit was the fat dot midway between 120 and 190, which I guess is 155. When I was driving the first half staring at the temp gauge the whole time (not driving enthusiastically), it was maybe halfway to the next lower dot, and with the heat cranked at full blast just edged closer to the dot below, so not much change.

Bad thermostat?

Thanks,
Paul
 
Meat thermometer

Grab your wife's meat thermometer and stick it in the res tank in the engine bay. Let the car come up to temp and see what the temp reads on the thermometer. Perhaps the gauge itself is off and not properly displaying the actual temp.

Or if you want to go high tech and know someone with a fancy-schmancy no-touch infrared thermometer thing-a-ma-bob. You could use that, but Pappa Tony will not respect you if you don't pilfer your tools from wifey's kitchen. :)
 
meat thermomter results

took it out on the usual 20 mile plus loop, came back home, let it idle, and removed the cap in the plastic reservoir in back. When Idling the gauge on the dash read 155, meat thermometer read 160, climbed to 168, and the dash had climbed by one click. But that is the hottest it got, not quite that on the drive, so I shut it down.

Stuck thermostat? Where is that located, and is there a repair manual for dummies? Do I need to order a thermostat and a gasket, and would the gasket be specifically for this vehicle?

thanks,
Paul
 
The stat itself has a rubber o-ring-y kinda thingy that goes around the edge of the flat metal plate of the stat body. This is not something that one would be able to walk into a parts store and get.

The stat cover-to-stat housing has a triangular shaped gasket with three bolt holes. Just your basic gasket, you could make one in a pinch with some good quality thicker gasket paper and knife/scissors.
 
ng_randolph said:
Late cars with EGR needed a special gasket to block the EGR port, so no make you own gasket for this one. See Tech Tip for May 1998 and This thread.
Click to expand...

But you don't remove the thermostat housing from the head to replace the thermostat...
Get the thermostat, the rubber ring, and the cover gasket from your Fiat parts supplier (I do stock em), and pick some new coolant.
I always heat up the three bolts with the heat wrench as soon as the hoses are out of the way, and put antisieze on the clean threads when I go back together.
 
best way to partially drain system below thermostat

I read the directions and stared at the car. Where is the best place to drain the cooling system below the thermostat assembly level?

You have enough room to use a torch to heat the bolts working from above, or on a lift? Do you just use a regular propane torch similar for plumbing work? I can't imagine being able to easily direct the flame as the bolts are on the bottom of the assembly and screw up.

told you I needed a manual for dummies,
Paul
 
Drain Plugs

There are two drain plugs for the cooling system, on the undercar coolant tubes just as they exit the tunnel on the way up to the radiator.

One on each tube.

IMG_0340.jpg
 
kayaker37 said:
I read the directions and stared at the car. Where is the best place to drain the cooling system below the thermostat assembly level?

You have enough room to use a torch to heat the bolts working from above, or on a lift? Do you just use a regular propane torch similar for plumbing work? I can't imagine being able to easily direct the flame as the bolts are on the bottom of the assembly and screw up.

told you I needed a manual for dummies,
Paul
Click to expand...

I drain the block at the block drain below the exhaust manifold. I would not drain at the cooling tubes unless I was prepared to repair the tubes when the drains screw up.
I use an oxy/acetilyn torch, and I do it from the top. It's easy to gain access from the top if you remove the coolant tank.
 
oxy acetylene torch

I do have an oxy-acetylene torch. Do you adjust the torch for normal welding and hit the thermostat housing with the yellow part of the flame? How far are you supposed to keep the blue inner cone away from the delicate parts? I can just picture hitting the gas lines. I keep reading about people using the torch but have not seen anyone do this.

Paul
 
kayaker37 said:
I do have an oxy-acetylene torch. Do you adjust the torch for normal welding and hit the thermostat housing with the yellow part of the flame? How far are you supposed to keep the blue inner cone away from the delicate parts? I can just picture hitting the gas lines. I keep reading about people using the torch but have not seen anyone do this.

Paul
Click to expand...

i just put on the small tip, and then adjust the tip for normal welding. The idea is to just get things hot, you are not trying to melt stuff.
Heat all three bolt's heads until they are almost ready to turn red, then put your 10 mm box end on them and see if they budge. If they do, great. If they don't then heat the stuck one(s) to red and let them cool till they are not red (don't want to twist the head off the threads) until you try again.
If they are real stubborn you can heat the alloy housing around the bolt's threads, but be careful as alloy melts at much lower tempuratures!
Anything you are afraid of catching on fire because you cannot control your flame get out of the way.
The idea is to force expansion and contraction in locallized places between dissimilar metals...
 
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