windshield leak

jvandyke

jvandyke

True Classic
The two times my X saw rain the passenger floor pooled and got wet all the way behind the seat (this is sitting still in the driveway), short ride in the rain (after being in it all day) there were drips from the upper right corner of the dash, under the vent, you could hear water sloshing in that area.
Expect rain tomorrow but really want to drive X so went looking for leak source. Found huge gaps between the chrome trim of the windshield and the body, I mean 1/8" easy. Along the left A pillar bit on bottom, a bit on driver's A pillar too.
I assumed this was the entrance then it ran down. I sealed it all as best I could with silicone for now.
How hard is it to pull a windshield and properly seal this?
 
jvandyke said:
How hard is it to pull a windshield and properly seal this?
Click to expand...

HARD.
Maybe easy for some, but the list is small. I've tried twice and broke them both times.

Suggestion: Take it to an auto glass replacement shop OR have them come to your place
with that nifty tool that cuts through the glass seal material. It'll save you at least a couple
hundred bucks (plus ship) for a new windshield, and they'll have it out
in minutes compared to what
time you'll spend in the attempt.

My :2c:
 
I agree with Bob

bbrown said:
HARD.
Maybe easy for some, but the list is small. I've tried twice and broke them both times.

Suggestion: Take it to an auto glass replacement shop OR have them come to your place
with that nifty tool that cuts through the glass seal material. It'll save you at least a couple
hundred bucks (plus ship) for a new windshield, and they'll have it out
in minutes compared to what
time you'll spend in the attempt.

My :2c:
Click to expand...

Never tried it, but I have heard it is very easy to snap the glass if you make one wrong move.

Another thing to keep in mind is to be prepared to do some rust damage control while the windshield is out. If it is leaking that bad, there may be some long term damage in the lower windshield area. If you find anything that looks like it should be addressed, you may need the windshield guy to make a second trip to put the glass back on another day.

Hopefully, all is well with the metal and resealing will be all you need.
 
"you could hear water sloshing in that area"

Did you take the little scuttle grilles off to check the drains that are in the left and right corners? The drain holes are right in front of the side dash vents, so clogged drains would pool water right in front of the vents.
 
The chrome trim is not part of the seal----

....I'd remove the trim & check around the windshield frame/glass. Use a garden hose & sit inside while someone sprays from the outside - allow the water to drop rather than spray at the car. There is normally a gap between the glass & the body, so that wouldn't be a direct indicator of where the water is entering.

On mine, I was able to inject 3M grommeted sealer into the gaps & that did the job. Mine was leaking on the drivers side post area, and the pass lower.
 
Windshield R&R... My wrecker does...

... or rather did, THOUSANDS of these with great success using a "wire-saw"... and was ALSO successful using them on FIATS.

It comes from A LOT OF EXPERIENCE... and even Matt stating he's done 30 or so... is NOT enough experience.

I hae never had to save the glass I was taking out... so basically, I have never had the experience either.

I believe if the posts are basically sound, you should be able to remove the chorme (or black) trim gently by cutting it off with a razor and then forcing in a bunch of sealer. Most try and do this without removing the trim and I think this is the key to their failure.

Spread excess sealant around the glass perimeter and then replace the trim and embed it in the sealant. Tape down to allow it to cure for a good 24 hours using BLUE painter's tape for easy removal.

Clean up using a razor and careful use of lacquer thinner...

Or... move to Arizona! HA

HTH...
 
I hear tell that silicone sealant is not the thing to use. One of the byproducts of its curing is acetic acid (vinegar) and the acid sets up electro-chemical corrosion. The same reaction that takes place in a battery or on the outside of ships in salt-water.
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
"you could hear water sloshing in that area"

Did you take the little scuttle grilles off to check the drains that are in the left and right corners? The drain holes are right in front of the side dash vents, so clogged drains would pool water right in front of the vents.
Click to expand...

I poured water into that area and it flowed out fine. There was no water in there when the sloshing was heard. It was trapped near the vent but not in it I guess. The drains are clear and run fine.
 
lookforjoe said:
....I'd remove the trim & check around the windshield frame/glass. Use a garden hose & sit inside while someone sprays from the outside - allow the water to drop rather than spray at the car. There is normally a gap between the glass & the body, so that wouldn't be a direct indicator of where the water is entering.

On mine, I was able to inject 3M grommeted sealer into the gaps & that did the job. Mine was leaking on the drivers side post area, and the pass lower.
Click to expand...

I didn't know how to take anything apart so I didn't. :dead:
How does the trim come off? I could look right under the chrome and see the edge of the glass and basically right into the cabin (or so it seemed). I suspect the windshield was removed for paint or something and not put back well at all. To be honest, unless it still leaks or something bad is happening, I'm considering it "fixed". Not the correct fix but good for now. There is no evidence of any decay in these areas so either it saw little weather since the seal was broken or it hasn't been very long. It won't see anymore leakage because I'm monitoring it now. Only concern now is if the windshield is so poorly installed as to compromise strength and safety.
 
One of the byproducts of its curing is acetic acid (vinegar)
Click to expand...

Some silicones release acetic acid while curing, others don't. GE Silicone I is acid cure and releases acetic acid. GE Silicone II does not. Silicone II is available in black and is indicated for automotive use. My tube is green and says "Silicone II - Gasket and Seal". I don't know how suitable it is for sealing windshields.
 
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