WTB: 1500 block

hahahahahaha

JJ! Are you trying to pass off what is clearly just a boat anchor as a 1500 block?!?!?

Too funny! :laugh:

Cheers,

Rob
 
rjplenter said:
JJ! Are you trying to pass off what is clearly just a boat anchor as a 1500 block?!?!?

Too funny! :laugh:

Cheers,

Rob
Click to expand...

That block could actually be saved by sleeving the bores (I have been salvaging a lot of earlier car's blocks with sleeving, and the new sleeves are better material than what Fiat used 50 years ago). But since it's not the last one, it's better as a jack stand.

Rob,
I can think of four different 1500 blocks. Any preference?
Chris Obert
 
HAHAHA... a jackstand?

My Lord... I would be hard pressed to even use it as an anchor. It would probably make a better REEF or BREAKWATER and a home for crabs and sea urchins!
 
That's a very good point Chris

Chris Obert said:
That block could actually be saved by sleeving the bores (I have been salvaging a lot of earlier car's blocks with sleeving, and the new sleeves are better material than what Fiat used 50 years ago). But since it's not the last one, it's better as a jack stand.

Rob,
I can think of four different 1500 blocks. Any preference?
Chris Obert
Click to expand...

Sleeving with modern materials would yield a better block. I must admit I only know of two blocks, the 10 bolt and the 14 bolt, so good to know there are more variants.

My first preference is for a 10 bolt block to match the 10 bolt Yugo head I am currently working on.
I'd prefer something close to Denver since I figure the cost of shipping a block would be horrendous?
The block will be bored out to accept 87mm pistons and will be run with a 67.4mm crank.

So, roughly, how much does sleeving add to the cost of a basic bore and hone?

Cheers,

Rob
 
Rob - I just shipped 90lbs of wheels via NEX - a discount shipper that actually uses Fedex as one of their carriers. Get some weight/dimensions of the block and check out their pricing on shipnex.com. I was skeptical at first but when I prepared the shipment I saw the price was $120 LESS than fedex quoted on their website, then when I printed the NEX label, it was actually a fedex ground label, then a fedex guy called me within 10 mins to schedule the pickup. It was also a fedex truck that came to the house - you get the idea - everything was fedex, but without fedex pricing. I think they also use UPS too. If you could get a nice block from anywhere, shipping shouldn't be too bad with this option.
 
Forgot to mention that it was 4, 17" BBS wheels shipped cross country from SoCal to Virgina for $85. Not bad.
 
I could always wrap it up in Something and get some weight for anyone that wants it............ Free


Mine is an early big bold 10 head. from an 81 X

As a Boat anchor I would have to paint it:jedi:
 
Last edited:
Black-Tooth said:
My Lord... I would be hard pressed to even use it as an anchor. It would probably make a better REEF or BREAKWATER and a home for crabs and sea urchins!
Click to expand...

Tony,
You have never heard of putting a car "up on blocks"?
I have saved old blocks for years. I have sets of 850 size, SOHC size, & twin cam size. I even have a set of 850 transmission case size...
And I do put cars up on them. More stable than jack stands!

Chris Obert
 
rjplenter said:
Sleeving with modern materials would yield a better block. I must admit I only know of two blocks, the 10 bolt and the 14 bolt, so good to know there are more variants.

My first preference is for a 10 bolt block to match the 10 bolt Yugo head I am currently working on.
I'd prefer something close to Denver since I figure the cost of shipping a block would be horrendous?
The block will be bored out to accept 87mm pistons and will be run with a 67.4mm crank.

So, roughly, how much does sleeving add to the cost of a basic bore and hone?

Cheers,

Rob
Click to expand...

You have 4 blocks:
carbureted
early FI with big head bolts
later with small head bolts
14 bolts

So you need to determine which yugo head bolt size head you have to determine which block. Big bolt, either of the earlier blocks. Small, either of the later blocks.
Yes, you can put a 10 bolt head on a 14 bolt block.

As for sleeving it's expensive as it's two bores, some press time, and at minimum time to confirm the block has not distorted (and if it has, align boring everything). Then decking the block. Only worth it if it's real important to keep that particular block (like on a matching numbers Jolly), or if it's the last one (as it seems most 1200s have become).
Currently I am taking blocks that are worn out at the biggest oversize piston size (won't accept larger pistons without cylinder failure from too thin of walls), and then sleeving them to available piston size.

Chris Obert
 
You got me... I thought they were Cinder-blocks though...

which are very popular in our poorer neighborhoods around here. Some are actually on permanent display in their front yards as well!

I never thought it was because they couldn't afford the PROPER engine blocks like you use! HA!
 
Chris Obert said:
You have 4 blocks:
carbureted
early FI with big head bolts
later with small head bolts
14 bolts
Click to expand...

So, on checking my head, I need a later small head bolt block.

Thanks Chris! I daresay you have saved me from possibly buying the wrong block.

Cheers,

Rob
 
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