WTB: yugo 1300 head

J

joshb

Daily Driver
hi
im after a yugo 1300 head for my x19 im looking for this style because i want to increase compression and ive been told the yugo head is good for that.
im a bit on the fence about putting a 1100 head on but dont really wana lose all puff at 5krpm.
if anyone has anything itll be much appreciated or even any info on a different way of doing it.
i live in australia btw.

thanks heaps
 
An x19/regata 1500 (euro or aust spec) cylinder head would be better, as they have a bigger port size and the advantage of the larger exhaust valve...but neither of those is going to avail you of any compression increase, as they have the same (nominal) combustion chamber volume as the head your car was born with.

Buying something used means it will probably need guides, seat cut, stem seals etc etc anyway.... what's wrong with the head that came with the car?

Buying anything from the USA will almost certainly mean it has the full circular recess machined into it, which will drop the static CR. Yugo 1300 head is the same combustion chamber as you have already.

SteveC
 
well my current head needs new valves so i asked around and was told the hugo head will increase the compression.
so i should just keep the current head? maybe just get bigger valves perhaps and port?
 
The yugo 1300 head would increase compression if you had a USA spec engine with the full circular recess machined into the head, but for your Australian spec engine the combustion chamber and valve sizes will be the same, so net result would be 9.2:1 static... to get some real oomph you need to get it up at or very close to an actual (measured and verified - not just guesswork) 10:1 static CR.

If the valves are U/S on your current head, then you might as well replace them with larger ones, but the biggest cost of this is the supply and installation of the larger valve seats to suit...

IMO your best starting with a 1500 (aust/euro spec) style head, you won't need to replace the exhaust seats... you'll have the benefit of slightly larger ports and seat throats to start with...

come up with a plan, a budget, and stick to it. Follow the 7P rule.

Perfect
Prior
Planning
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance

SteveC
 
Quality hay costs good $$$, hay that's already been through the horse comes considerably cheaper....you'll get what you pay for.

I don't have any stock cores left, they have all been sold or fitted with bigger valves already...

Expect around $150au for a good core

SteveC
 
Steve's covered most of the info you need, but I'll a bit more to the heap. :)

The reason you hear most USA-based folks recommending the Yugo 1100 head is because it doesn't have the circular recess around the combustion chamber that our 128-X1/9-Strada heads have. The difference is, of course, a higher compression ratio. The Yugo 1100's were sold here in the USA for 4-6 years, so they do still show up in the junkyards every now & then for us to steal the cylinder head from. It's an inexpensive, bolt-on "performance" item for folks who drive in the lower-rpm powerband (like comfortable highway cruising with a tall-geared transmission).

The Yugo 1300 head is similar to the Yugo 1100 head, but the combustion chambers are wider, like the 1300/1500 128-X1/9-Strada heads. So a Yugo 1300 head will give slightly higher c/r than our stock USA heads, but not as high as the Yugo 1100 head. The valve sizes between the Yugo 1100 & 1300 heads are about the same (.5mm on 4 of the valves).

However, the Yugo 1300 head was only available on the Yugo GVX (carb 1988) & GVPlus (FI 1990-91), which were sold in a shorter time period & in far fewer numbers than the earlier 1100 version. So the Yugo 1300 head is a bit on the rare side to find here, & those folks who do have one usually hold onto it for their own car (like me), since it is comparable to a Euro X1/9 1300 head to us (1300 valve & combustion chamber sizes, & flat combustion chamber surround areas), & the head doesn't have to be milled down like USA heads do to get rid of the c/c recess (so no additional fussing needed with timing belt/bearing sizes & adjustable cam wheels).

The Euro/Aussie X1/9 (or Regatta, as Steve indicated) head should likely be far easier & cheaper for you to get a hold of, & perform better. :2c:
 
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