What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Yellow, and yellow stripe with Icsunonove script on the doors. Maybe also a Hotwheel sticker. I don't know, but I think it was already done... ;)
 
Years ago, I bought a junky pair of 74 and 75 race cars. The rules allowed wheels 1.5" wider than the stock 4.5". The wheels that came with the car were stock 4.5 which had been widened by cutting the wheel in two parts just outboard of the center with a 1.5" steel band welded outboard of the center and then the outer rim flange welded back on. Another way to get the widened steel result is to cut the stock rim off the center and weld on a wider rim. Now, it is cheaper to buy an aluminum wheel.
 
Applied power to the rear trunk circuit today. Added a lot of wiring to the car, so applying power to circuits, one at a time so as to minimize smoke. Rear trunk has amber LED strips that come on when trunk is opened. Used X door jamb switch, mounted 3" or so to the right of the latch. Also added a trouble light from a 90s GM truck. It is mounted to the back of the right tail light and has a 8' or so cord and a magnet to hold it in place while you work. CD changer is also mounted in the trunk. Would have gone to a stereo that has a plug in for a flash drive, but my wife bought me this stereo for Christmas in 1998, so it's a keeper.

Trunk,01.jpg
Trunk,02.jpg
 
7982X said:
CD changer is also mounted in the trunk. Would have gone to a stereo that has a plug in for a flash drive, but my wife bought me this stereo for Christmas in 1998, so it's a keeper.
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I still have a complete CD changer setup from the late 80's. Complete with the matching head unit, amp, sub, etc. State of the art from Sony at the time and I loved it. Also have the matching Sony home CD changer that uses the same magazines. Now it's all sitting in a box as I can't quite bring myself to dumping it. 😢
 
I've been busy working on my 1973 X1/9 this week. So far I've removed most of the exterior trim, gone through the front half of the car's electrical (Most things work now, yay!), replaced all the bulbs in the car, repaired the horns, and started refurbishing the exterior trim.

I should probably do a build thread on this car at some point.
 
7982X said:
Applied power to the rear trunk circuit today. Added a lot of wiring to the car, so applying power to circuits, one at a time so as to minimize smoke. Rear trunk has amber LED strips that come on when trunk is opened. Used X door jamb switch, mounted 3" or so to the right of the latch. Also added a trouble light from a 90s GM truck. It is mounted to the back of the right tail light and has a 8' or so cord and a magnet to hold it in place while you work. CD changer is also mounted in the trunk. Would have gone to a stereo that has a plug in for a flash drive, but my wife bought me this stereo for Christmas in 1998, so it's a keeper.

View attachment 41964View attachment 41965
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Lighting reminds us of the car in Repo Man
 
JTBernhardt said:
I've been busy working on my 1973 X1/9 this week. So far I've removed most of the exterior trim, gone through the front half of the car's electrical (Most things work now, yay!), replaced all the bulbs in the car, repaired the horns, and started refurbishing the exterior trim.

I should probably do a build thread on this car at some point.
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Ya think? Yes that would be nice indeed.
 
They look awesome. It has gotten difficult to find good chrome platers around here in the las 10 years. They're all gone.
That will be a beautiful finishing detail !!!!!
 
Thanks you, I’m happy with them, one was badly corroded and another slightly twisted due to a minor shunt so a fair amount of work needed in the end.
 
I would say it was worth the effort, even with the expense. It will really set the rest of the car off well.
 
Sourced a Ford inertia safety switch to wire between +12V and the electric fuel pump, this in case of a crash, it shuts down power to the pump to prevent raw gas from pumping on to a hot engine and creating a fire. Paid $20 on eBay including shipping.

A few years ago my neighbor was out for a drive in his 355 with his teenage son on Highway 1 in west Marin. He managed to lose control and hit a tree. Fire ensued, and it was determined he was behind the wheel at the time of the impact by dental records.

Switch will reside on a fabricated bracket bolted to one of two vertical studs at the front left corner of the engine bay frame rail, below the fuel pump affixed to the firewall.

inertia switch.JPG
 
I had a Mercury Sable wagon with this kind of inertia switch. On that car, the switch was mounted in the right rear quarter panel just 1 foot forward of the bumper. I worked as an auto insurance claims adjuster for years. Several times, customers reported to me that they were in a minor rear end fender bender (just a scratch on the back bumper) but their car would not start and had to be towed to a mechanic. If that happens to you, just press the red button and continue your journey.
 
I've used this switch on numerous builds and have one on my K20 swap. About the best inertia switch out there. I would give some thought to mounting it in a more accessible location in case something trips it. Somewhere in the rear trunk works well as does the inside of the spare tire compartment if you want to hide it.
 
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