1.9L stroker build for my 1977 X1/9

elderair

elderair

True Classic
Here is the nearly finished product. I need to degree the camshaft and adjust the valves. Still playing with the length on the ARP head Studs and will have to do some digging in the archives for the proper length on them. 1500 front water jacket cover with the 1300 timing tensioner pulley and bracket and a 1500 timing belt . Only one hole on the 1500 water jacket cover needed to be welded shut. 1500 aux. shaft with millers mules pulley. 1.6 Punto block (block and crank plus vendor assistance provided by user gtturbo!) and a Tipo head with 40 mm intake and 35mm exhaust valves. Stilo 78.4 mm stroke crankshaft. 87.5mm Iapel forged flat top pistons and custom forged rods (standard 1.6 length). The block was decked .6mm for .6mm pop up. Custom 1.9mm Thick head gasket with removable rings around the combustion chambers with allowance for crush will give .040 piston/head clearance. Computronix ignition. Sprint Filter Intake manifold with a pair of NOS Italian 40 DCNF Weber carbs. Allison exhaust header and muffler. Pittatore #87 grind 10.6mm lift camshaft. Using the factory 4spd. trans with a CG Motorsports kevlar clutch disc and stage II pressure plate. Will have to see how the transmission holds up. Should be fine till I decide to gather up 5spd. spindles, axles, etc.






























 
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HP/TQ expectations

Since most of these 1.9 conversions are made with low compression for turbo charging I really have no real world estimates for a N/A build. I am sure they may be out there but not seeing it. I would like to see 150hp at least. The torque is where I expect this thing to do well. The rod ratio is somewhat below the 2:1 I see as the desired ratio. 1.7:1 or slightly less. So volumetric efficiency as a N/A may be somewhat below ideal. But I am hoping it will put a huge smile on my face at our next track day! :thumbsup: Also wanted to thank Matt and crew at Midwest Bayless for all the help rounding up extra hardware to put this mess all together into a hopefully usable unit.
 
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Looks beautiful, love the pulleys. Where did you get the water pump pulley with the holes. Actually all the pulleys look aftermarket and I'd love to know the source. I have the same camshaft pulley on my 1600 stroker but not the others.

Keep up the amazing build. :)
 
Water Pump pulley and others

Andrea Vencl in Puala Croatia supplied the trick water pump with aluminum pulley along with an alternator pulley and underdrive crankshaft pulley. Somewhere in the 260 usd. and it was shipped with a bunch of other items so not sure what shipping would have been. That was a new water pump included with alternator pulley and crank pulley. Millers mules makes the trick aux pulley. Andrea supplied the adjustable cam pulley at 70 usd. email for Andrea is avencl*net.hr :pimp:
 
Hussein, You Contributed!

Thanks for selling me the trick ignition unit to complete the build. I also can't wait to hear it crank the first time. Still need to address the Volvo oil cooler issue. Thanks again. :)
 
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Nice to see stroker builds being done on these engines. If you don't mind me asking, how were you able to purchase the iapel forged pistons? years ago i spoke with them on the phone, and tried to purchase a set of forged one's for my 1.6 project, but they were not of much help and didn't supported paypal.... Have things changed? Or being from North America, makes things easier?
 
Iapel pistons

I went through hps parts in Germany for my order. I guess they do enough volume to order what they want. info*hps-parts.com is their contact info. Great to deal with! :)
 
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Work on the Stroker

Thanks, I have been an Aircraft Mechanic by trade so I am used to an inspector following around behind me to sign off my work. Keeps me on my toes and helps with quality control. No inspector on this project so it's up to me to keep the quality of the build at a level I can live with. :) I will make sure to get the event on film and post it. Found rjplenter's thread on head studs and that was very helpful so thanks XWEB! If anyone wants specifics feel free to pm me and I will dig up what I have on the build so far. Having a spare 1.5 laying around would have been handy since I have basically assembled a complete engine from parts I have had to source down to the last nut and bolt.
 
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elderair said:
I went through hps parts in Germany for my order. I guess they do enough volume to order what they want. info*hps-parts.com is their contact info. Great to deal with! :)
Click to expand...

Tried to look up their website, but no page online. Was digging for some info though, and their username popped up on some german forums. Will give it a look, so i can "add it to my favorites" list. thanks
 
Looking good! Lovely to see these filtering through and hopefully we will be seeing a few more :)

Can't wait to see your results.
 
Locating a Dyno

Thanks Gtturbo for your help in my endeavor! I have to pick up some plasticine to check top end clearance and proper head studs and then final top end assembly can commence. Once it is in the car I would like to locate the nearest dyno and get some results posted for everyone so all can decide on the pros and cons of the build. A turbo would have been great but I didn't want the extra plumbing, etc. I know that is where the real power is with these strokers.
Maybe a turbo version is in my future! I know just who to talk to for that add on!
 
Plasticine and camshaft timing

The beginning of the final part of assembly is happening. Also the most important part. Piston Head to valve clearance checking both vertically and radially and piston to cylinder head. I am using an adjustable camshaft sprocket without any reference marks as to where it should be located at tdc of crankshaft in relation to a back cover or flywheel marks , etc. and located on my engine stand. I also used a steel strap bolted to the block as a piston stop and a degree wheel on the crank pulley to establish true tdc and made my tdc mark on the virgin crank pulley. Referenced it to a modified timing tab from a a/c equipped 79 X1/9 motor that bolts to the two studs on the front seal carrier.

So I found f/l on the camshaft by using my degree wheel on the cam pulley and a dial indicator on the #1 intake valve. Made that mark on the inner cambox and camshaft. Timing spec for the 42/82 Pittatore states f/l occurs at 112deg. atdc crankshaft (does this sound correct) so I scribed a mark on the crank pulley at 112deg atdc. Now for this to occur I retarded the camshaft 56deg. from f/l. Now in my thinking this is now where my TDC on crank and my camshaft are in static alignment when fianl assembly occurs. Then rotated the crankshaft with timing belt installed and tensioned to the 112deg atdc crankshaft mark and the cambox marks aligned indicating f/l on the camshaft. Sound correct so far?

I rotated the crankshaft carfully through two full revolutions and I removed the head and checked the plasticine dimensions and found that I have 1.3mm clerance from piston to head at 20ft/lb head bolt torque so there may be a bit less after the final install although the gasket maker suggests there is no squish after torque. With this camshaft setting I have nearly 5mm of vertical clearance on the intake valve and about 2.2mm of radial clearance to the valve cut out.
So I reinstalled the plasticine and did a repeat of the checkout with the camshaft advanced one tooth and another with it retarded one tooth. As I imagined the one tooth advanced resulted in a bit more intake valve interaction and the one tooth retarded resulted in slightly more exhaust valve interaction.
Should I go any further than 8deg in both directions while checking for interference? Any thoughts on this? Don't want to ruin any parts on startup. All of this was checked with the valve lash at .016" clearance which is hopefully the correct setting for this camshaft. I could only find one reference to .4mm.

Just found this ON GCF so my timing may be two deg. retarded. [(42 + 82 + 180)/2] - 42 = 110 deg Wonder if it is beneficial or detrimental to run it that way. It is easy to remedy with the adjustable cam pulley. Guess I could wait for dyno day and then fine tune since I know what the plasticine says at 8 deg +!
 
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Priming the Oil system

Got my handy dandy Dewalt drill out and chopped the end off of a chineese extension to make my primer tool out of. Filled the crankcase with 30W Amsoil Breakin oil and took about 3 seconds to get oil coming out the cam bearings! Looks good. Also had awesome results with the Amsoil breakin oil on my last engine assembly. 500 miles then drain and straight to Amsoil ZRod high zinc synthetic 20/50.








 
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Three bolt thermostat housing adapter to two bolt Tipo

This seems to function as required. Not sure about heater hose going here but not finding any other place for it.








































 
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I went through hps parts in Germany for my order. I guess they do enough volume to order what they want. info*hps-parts.com is their contact info. Great to deal with!
Click to expand...
Thank you very much Kent ;)

Regards
Andre

*unfortunatly contact lost*
 
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