128 wheel specs

Agnelli

True Classic
The goal of the following measurements is to ascertain which wheels already in stock to run. Current installed alloys are Compomotives, 13x5.5 with 175/70s. Rear tires scrape the outer rear fenders (at about 2 o'clock on the driver's side 10 o'clock on passenger side). I've already hammered back the edges of the fenders with a small sledge, don't want to cut or further bow out the fenders, or run flares.

Table below developed to determine how far outboard rear tires will run. Figures are in inches, weight in lbs.

Most likely will run 124 steelies which have been stripped and powdercoated in original light grey shade. Wider Cosmics will likely rub, unless I shift tire size.

128 wheel specs
TypeWidth, outsideWidth, beadBackspaceOutside : hubWeight
128 steel5 1/24 1/24 7/161 1/1612
124 steel654 1/81 7/814
Cosmic alloy764 3/162 13/1616
 

carl

True Classic
Can't help with the wheels, try asking Chris Granju since he bought my 128 wagon and it has non stock wheels. I seem to recall with my 128 wagon that lowering the rear is what causes tire rub. Is your car is lowered, maybe it's too much?
 

johnph

True Classic
Since the tires are rubbing the (outboard side) fender, you might want to check how much space there is before rubbing on the inside.
Write down that figure for each side. Then measure the backspace dimension of the stock wheel. Backspace is the distance from the back rim flange down to the hubmount surface of the wheel center. Then get wheels which have a lesser backspace dimension.
Let's say you have 40 mm clearance on the inside. Select a same width wheel with 30 mm less backspace and install it. Now, you will have 10 mm clearance on the inside and 30mm more clearance on the outside.
In the pic, backspace on the wheel shown is 55mm.
 

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Agnelli

True Classic
Can't help with the wheels, try asking Chris Granju since he bought my 128 wagon and it has non stock wheels. I seem to recall with my 128 wagon that lowering the rear is what causes tire rub. Is your car is lowered, maybe it's too much?
Yes it may be too low in the rear.
 

Chris Taunton

Daily Driver
Agnelli,

Here is my 2 cents.

The CD 30 wheels I love so much did not rub with 165/70R13 Tires and 1/2" lower ride height (this was the setup on the car when I bought it). With 175/70R13 tires, it rubbed like crazy. The current setup is 185/55R14 Federal tires on Alfetta wheels 14x5.5 ET45 with 20 mm H&R hub centric spacers and 1" lower ride height with no rubbing. The summer tires are 185/55 R14 Yokohama A052s on 14x6 Alfetta wheels ET45, same spacers with no rubbing. Also, the steering and suspension feel better with this offset, compared to the ET7 CD30 wheels.

So, I think going for a tire close to the original diameter and a wheel close to the original offset is the way to go.

Full disclosure: the big brake kit from MWB I have on my car came with a steel spacer that is about 6.5mm thick, so my offset in front is 18.5 mm. If you don't need the clearance for brakes, I'd stick to 13" wheels with about 25 mm offset.

These cars are very sensitive to wheel run out. I had to sandwich the H&R spacer between the hub and the steel spacer and clamp it in place with longer rotor bolts after using a dail gauge to eliminate the run out due to manufacturing tolerances. Avoid spacers if you can.

I hope these data points help. My car still has the original 3 leaf rear spring, and 1" spacers to lower the rear.

Chris
 

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Agnelli

True Classic
Agnelli,

Here is my 2 cents.

The CD 30 wheels I love so much did not rub with 165/70R13 Tires and 1/2" lower ride height (this was the setup on the car when I bought it). With 175/70R13 tires, it rubbed like crazy. The current setup is 185/55R14 Federal tires on Alfetta wheels 14x5.5 ET45 with 20 mm H&R hub centric spacers and 1" lower ride height with no rubbing. The summer tires are 185/55 R14 Yokohama A052s on 14x6 Alfetta wheels ET45, same spacers with no rubbing. Also, the steering and suspension feel better with this offset, compared to the ET7 CD30 wheels.

So, I think going for a tire close to the original diameter and a wheel close to the original offset is the way to go.

Full disclosure: the big brake kit from MWB I have on my car came with a steel spacer that is about 6.5mm thick, so my offset in front is 18.5 mm. If you don't need the clearance for brakes, I'd stick to 13" wheels with about 25 mm offset.

These cars are very sensitive to wheel run out. I had to sandwich the H&R spacer between the hub and the steel spacer and clamp it in place with longer rotor bolts after using a dail gauge to eliminate the run out due to manufacturing tolerances. Avoid spacers if you can.

I hope these data points help. My car still has the original 3 leaf rear spring, and 1" spacers to lower the rear.

Chris
Thanks Chris. Your Alfetta Campagnolos look great (I had those w/ spacers from serpent on my former X with Yokohamas). I have mounted my 175/70r13 Michelin Defenders on powdercoated 124 steelies, yet to install, will do that with rear brake refresh and new reinforced rear A arms at the same time, and report back on clearance results.
 

Chris Taunton

Daily Driver
Thanks Chris. Your Alfetta Campagnolos look great (I had those w/ spacers from serpent on my former X with Yokohamas). I have mounted my 175/70r13 Michelin Defenders on powdercoated 124 steelies, yet to install, will do that with rear brake refresh and new reinforced rear A arms at the same time, and report back on clearance results.
I had 13x5 124 steel wheels on my 1972 128 sedan at stock ride heightand even 165/70R13 tires rubbed in back if I had passengers. I think you will need more offset.

Wagons have stiffer springs, so it might be okay.

Chris.
 

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johnph

True Classic
First, there is something wrong with the specs you posted at the top of this thread. It is impossible to have a 4 1/2" wide wheel with a 4 7/16" backspace. (this is more than a measurement error).
With proper measurements, of wheel width, backspace and clearance on both the outside fender and (whatever is close on the inside) (like the lower spring seat on an X 1/9, you can easily calculate what backspace dimension will solve the problem. Then, go out and find wheels that meet your calculations. I had to do this when I had 6" wide wheels made for my SCCA road race X. The only thing wrong with those wheels (pictured) is that they did not have the proper hub centering ring.
More offset means a smaller backspace dimension. Remember that given two different width wheels with the same backspace dimension the extra width is all on the outside face. For example:
stock 4 1/2" and another wheel that is 5 1/2
This 1" wider wheel is going to be 1" closer into the outside fender. In your case, you want something that is FARTHER from the outside fender.
 

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