<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]1300 Head & Lowered springs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 2 2000 at 8:43 AM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "g";n54_em = n54_em + "f";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "l"; document.write("Felix"); // --> </SCRIPT>Felix <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT> [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Two questions... I read the "power" thread with the suggestion to use a 1300 head on a 1500. I thought the 1300 has smaller valves, doesn;t that impair the power gain? Could I combine this head with twin weber 40 DCNF's on my 1500?
Second, I want to install lowered springs. The local salesman has springs for Fiat X1/9 up until 1982. Is the post-82 suspension that different? Or are they forgetting that after 82 it's not Fiat but Bertone (mine is a 85). Can I use these springs?
thanks,
Felix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Author[/FONT]</TD><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Reply[/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Ulix[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Springs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 2 2000, 9:32 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
I think you are correct in that they are forgetting the later cars. The springs are exactly the same for the later cars.
I can't remember the valve size difference, but if only the exhaust valve is different, it supposedly doesn't have much impact on performnace. The intake valve is much more important to this motor.
Ulix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "v";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "i";n54_em = n54_em + "w";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "y";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "t"; document.write("Steve Hoelscher"); // --> </SCRIPT>Steve Hoelscher <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Valve sizes<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 2 2000, 7:35 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The 1500 motor has a slightly larger exhaust valve. Two milimeters I think. But the valve seat is exactly the same size, so there is no performance gain. The 1300 head does have a slightly smaller diameter to the ports, so you might want to open them up a little. They don't need much.
The 1300 head will drop right on your 1500 motor. Be sure to use the alignment dowels. The smaller combustion chamber of the 1300 head will bump the compression slightly, yielding more torque. It will work fine with the big carbs.
Steve
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Felix[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Accompanying cams<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 3 2000, 9:43 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->What camshaft would you recommend on this combination? I don't care much about mpg but I want to be able to drive through town in 5th (or 4th if necessary) like I can now...?
Emissions are a (minor) issue too but I don't think the cam would change that much, at least not at idle...?
Thanks in advance
Felix
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Felix[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks, and..<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 3 2000, 9:34 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Is the fitting of springs a DIY job? I'm quite technical but don't have much heavy duty equipment. Can I do it with the car jacked up? Must the entire suspension assembly be removed? Do I need a spring compressor? other special tools?
Thanks in advance for your replies
Felix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Ulix[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Cam and springs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 3 2000, 10:53 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
Regarding the cam, is your car a euro model?
If you want to drive through town in 5th, maybe you want to stick with the stock cam for a while. It's probably much better than the US cams.
Otherwise, a 40/80 (300 deg) cam will still give you good torque.
For changing springs, it's very easy, but you do need a spring compressor.
1) Try to loosen the big nuts on top of the shocks while the car is still together. Just try to get them a little loose.
2) Jack up car, remove wheel, undo the two bolts/nuts that hold the strut to the upright.
3) Undo the 3 small nuts from the top that hold the strut to the body. Withdraw strut.
4) Now you need to get the top nut loose if it isn't already. If the nuts are correoded, this can be the hardest part of the job. You have to hold the funnel-shaped part that the nut sits in while you undo the nut. I have used big pliers for this.
5) Once the nut is a little loose, use the spring compressor to compress the spring a little, then remove nut completely, along with the other hardware.
6) You way want to replace the top mounts (the part with with the three little studs on it) if they are worn. They will induce negative camber if worn.
7) If the new springs are shorter, you may be able to install them without using the spring compressor.
8) Make sure your shocks are in good shape. Stiff springs and worn (or too soft) shocks give a bouncy ride.
Ulix
'67 Sprite
'74 X1/9
http://www.mirafiori.com/~ulix
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "x";n54_em = n54_em + "1";n54_em = n54_em + "9";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "y";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "m"; document.write("Mac"); // --> </SCRIPT>Mac <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 6:58 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->And...
Ulix wrote:
Try to loosen the big nuts on top of the shocks while the car is still together. Just try to get them a little loose.
There are 'special' sockets out there that are good for this job. The top of the shock (the threaded part) is notched on either side so that instead of being round, it is shaped like 2 letter D's butted against each other. In fact, that is what the socket is called, a "double-D socket". If you have one of these in the right size, removing the big top nut is a lot easier.
However, it is not truly necessary. I usually soak the nut with WD-40 or similar, then use a regular box-end wrench to turn the big nut while I hold the double-D's flat sides with a visegrip to keep the shaft from just rotating with the nut.
Ulix is correct, that is the hard part, and even that is not too hard unless the threads are really bunged up. Overall, the job is much simpler than one might expect. Definitely do replace the top rubber 3-stud mounts if they are worn, these are a very important piece of the suspension, believe it or not.
Another easy way to tell (in general anyway) wether these should be replaced is to look at the top of each strut while installed on the car. There is a circular hole in the top of the strut tower, and a circular metal lip on the 3-stud mount. If the metal mount lip is not centered in the strut tower hole, especially if the lip is touching the edge of the tower hole, then it is almost definitely shot, with very few exceptions (like the frame of the car being bent)... In any case, that is a good tip for checking them by eye. -Mac.
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "g";n54_em = n54_em + "f";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "l"; document.write("Felix"); // --> </SCRIPT>Felix <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->More questions...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 10:55 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks a lot for all the info, but other questions raise ...
Yes I do have a European model ('85, carbureted, catalytic converter, PCV valve, but Swiss- and
the Swiss are known for being the California of Europe regarding emissions, so i could have a "crippled" engine regarding compression and cams. But I don't know. It uses unleaded btw. The carb is unusual also, 32 DATR instead of 34 with idle solenoid. No mechanic here has ever seen anything like it, let alone understand it)
Can I determine the type of camshaft that I have from the outside? With a disc with degrees on the camshaft or something like that??
Can I use the 1500 valves and/or seats, which in my case can sustain unleaded fuel, in the 1300 head-to-be-transplanted?
(If I get a 1300 head here I'm afraid it cannot have unleaded due to its age (unleaded here only since 1984 or so))
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Ulix[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->cat?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 1:09 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
that is an odd model that you have. I don't think the other euro 1500s with carbs had cats. They all the used the 4into2 manifold.
You should find out your engine specs somehow.
You could have a '79 US spec engine but I think they didn't have a 32 DATR, correct?
Do you have an air pump?
The carb used on the US 1300s was the 32 DATRA, where the last "A" stands for "America".
If you had a degree wheel and a dial indicator you could indeed determine what cam timing you have.
All X1/9s can use unleaded. If you don't believe me, check the british classic car magazines. The brits are obsessed with unleaded conversions and fuel additives, now that they just lost leaded gas.
They list all X1/9s as unleaded ready.
The US market fortunately doesn't worry too much about this and we haven't had truely leaded gas in a very very long time.
Ulix
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "g";n54_em = n54_em + "f";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "l"; document.write("Felix"); // --> </SCRIPT>Felix <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 5 2000, 2:55 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 90px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I know the configuration is "odd". I strongly suspect that the car has been converted - the exhaust "hole" in the left side of the bodywork is covered with filler while the exhaust is on the right side.
There are additional stickers on the dash and at the gas cap stating "UNLEADED", apparently sticked on later, while the service history says something about changing the head (in illegible German). No air pump (I think, don't know what it looks like)
Carb most certainly isn't a DATRA - American ones have VERY small choke sizes as far as I know, mine has 22/22 mm instead of the 23/26 of the 34 DATR.
Thanks for the tip on the 1300 heads. Leaded gas is on its way out here too.
Can I determine the type of head by compression measurement?
Thanks in advance
Felix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Ulix[/FONT]
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 11:29 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
I just read that on EURO engines, the 1500 and 1300 heads may have the same volume, so nothing would be gained from the swap. You may want to find some other info on this.
Of course if you have a US head, any euro head would be a great swap.
Ulix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 2 2000 at 8:43 AM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "g";n54_em = n54_em + "f";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "k";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "d";n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "l"; document.write("Felix"); // --> </SCRIPT>Felix <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT> [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Two questions... I read the "power" thread with the suggestion to use a 1300 head on a 1500. I thought the 1300 has smaller valves, doesn;t that impair the power gain? Could I combine this head with twin weber 40 DCNF's on my 1500?
Second, I want to install lowered springs. The local salesman has springs for Fiat X1/9 up until 1982. Is the post-82 suspension that different? Or are they forgetting that after 82 it's not Fiat but Bertone (mine is a 85). Can I use these springs?
thanks,
Felix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 2 2000, 9:32 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
I think you are correct in that they are forgetting the later cars. The springs are exactly the same for the later cars.
I can't remember the valve size difference, but if only the exhaust valve is different, it supposedly doesn't have much impact on performnace. The intake valve is much more important to this motor.
Ulix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 2 2000, 7:35 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The 1500 motor has a slightly larger exhaust valve. Two milimeters I think. But the valve seat is exactly the same size, so there is no performance gain. The 1300 head does have a slightly smaller diameter to the ports, so you might want to open them up a little. They don't need much.
The 1300 head will drop right on your 1500 motor. Be sure to use the alignment dowels. The smaller combustion chamber of the 1300 head will bump the compression slightly, yielding more torque. It will work fine with the big carbs.
Steve
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 3 2000, 9:43 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->What camshaft would you recommend on this combination? I don't care much about mpg but I want to be able to drive through town in 5th (or 4th if necessary) like I can now...?
Emissions are a (minor) issue too but I don't think the cam would change that much, at least not at idle...?
Thanks in advance
Felix
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 3 2000, 9:34 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Is the fitting of springs a DIY job? I'm quite technical but don't have much heavy duty equipment. Can I do it with the car jacked up? Must the entire suspension assembly be removed? Do I need a spring compressor? other special tools?
Thanks in advance for your replies
Felix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 3 2000, 10:53 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
Regarding the cam, is your car a euro model?
If you want to drive through town in 5th, maybe you want to stick with the stock cam for a while. It's probably much better than the US cams.
Otherwise, a 40/80 (300 deg) cam will still give you good torque.
For changing springs, it's very easy, but you do need a spring compressor.
1) Try to loosen the big nuts on top of the shocks while the car is still together. Just try to get them a little loose.
2) Jack up car, remove wheel, undo the two bolts/nuts that hold the strut to the upright.
3) Undo the 3 small nuts from the top that hold the strut to the body. Withdraw strut.
4) Now you need to get the top nut loose if it isn't already. If the nuts are correoded, this can be the hardest part of the job. You have to hold the funnel-shaped part that the nut sits in while you undo the nut. I have used big pliers for this.
5) Once the nut is a little loose, use the spring compressor to compress the spring a little, then remove nut completely, along with the other hardware.
6) You way want to replace the top mounts (the part with with the three little studs on it) if they are worn. They will induce negative camber if worn.
7) If the new springs are shorter, you may be able to install them without using the spring compressor.
8) Make sure your shocks are in good shape. Stiff springs and worn (or too soft) shocks give a bouncy ride.
Ulix
'67 Sprite
'74 X1/9
http://www.mirafiori.com/~ulix
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 6:58 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->And...
Ulix wrote:
Try to loosen the big nuts on top of the shocks while the car is still together. Just try to get them a little loose.
There are 'special' sockets out there that are good for this job. The top of the shock (the threaded part) is notched on either side so that instead of being round, it is shaped like 2 letter D's butted against each other. In fact, that is what the socket is called, a "double-D socket". If you have one of these in the right size, removing the big top nut is a lot easier.
However, it is not truly necessary. I usually soak the nut with WD-40 or similar, then use a regular box-end wrench to turn the big nut while I hold the double-D's flat sides with a visegrip to keep the shaft from just rotating with the nut.
Ulix is correct, that is the hard part, and even that is not too hard unless the threads are really bunged up. Overall, the job is much simpler than one might expect. Definitely do replace the top rubber 3-stud mounts if they are worn, these are a very important piece of the suspension, believe it or not.
Another easy way to tell (in general anyway) wether these should be replaced is to look at the top of each strut while installed on the car. There is a circular hole in the top of the strut tower, and a circular metal lip on the 3-stud mount. If the metal mount lip is not centered in the strut tower hole, especially if the lip is touching the edge of the tower hole, then it is almost definitely shot, with very few exceptions (like the frame of the car being bent)... In any case, that is a good tip for checking them by eye. -Mac.
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 10:55 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks a lot for all the info, but other questions raise ...
Yes I do have a European model ('85, carbureted, catalytic converter, PCV valve, but Swiss- and
the Swiss are known for being the California of Europe regarding emissions, so i could have a "crippled" engine regarding compression and cams. But I don't know. It uses unleaded btw. The carb is unusual also, 32 DATR instead of 34 with idle solenoid. No mechanic here has ever seen anything like it, let alone understand it)
Can I determine the type of camshaft that I have from the outside? With a disc with degrees on the camshaft or something like that??
Can I use the 1500 valves and/or seats, which in my case can sustain unleaded fuel, in the 1300 head-to-be-transplanted?
(If I get a 1300 head here I'm afraid it cannot have unleaded due to its age (unleaded here only since 1984 or so))
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 1:09 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
that is an odd model that you have. I don't think the other euro 1500s with carbs had cats. They all the used the 4into2 manifold.
You should find out your engine specs somehow.
You could have a '79 US spec engine but I think they didn't have a 32 DATR, correct?
Do you have an air pump?
The carb used on the US 1300s was the 32 DATRA, where the last "A" stands for "America".
If you had a degree wheel and a dial indicator you could indeed determine what cam timing you have.
All X1/9s can use unleaded. If you don't believe me, check the british classic car magazines. The brits are obsessed with unleaded conversions and fuel additives, now that they just lost leaded gas.
They list all X1/9s as unleaded ready.
The US market fortunately doesn't worry too much about this and we haven't had truely leaded gas in a very very long time.
Ulix
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 5 2000, 2:55 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 90px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I know the configuration is "odd". I strongly suspect that the car has been converted - the exhaust "hole" in the left side of the bodywork is covered with filler while the exhaust is on the right side.
There are additional stickers on the dash and at the gas cap stating "UNLEADED", apparently sticked on later, while the service history says something about changing the head (in illegible German). No air pump (I think, don't know what it looks like)
Carb most certainly isn't a DATRA - American ones have VERY small choke sizes as far as I know, mine has 22/22 mm instead of the 23/26 of the 34 DATR.
Thanks for the tip on the 1300 heads. Leaded gas is on its way out here too.
Can I determine the type of head by compression measurement?
Thanks in advance
Felix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]April 4 2000, 11:29 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Felix,
I just read that on EURO engines, the 1500 and 1300 heads may have the same volume, so nothing would be gained from the swap. You may want to find some other info on this.
Of course if you have a US head, any euro head would be a great swap.
Ulix<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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