1974 correct replacement battery size - thoughts?

tvmaster

True Classic
Hi. I believe from what I’ve read here that 24R is the correct battery size for a ‘74 exxe?
Seeing that the alternator’s now replaced, it appears the battery is still draining too quickly after charging.
After I spend some time looking for a parasitic drain, if one can’t be found, does anyone have battery suggestions?
Budget is a concern, IE I have no problem with the AAA brand batteries all our other cars have, but if batteries of similar cost are far superior brands, I’d appreciate knowing about them.
Also, do most people place the posts away from the firewall, or beside it.
Anything else I should know?
Thanks
 
Somewhere I recall seeing it listed as a 24L. I think that the difference is that the positive and negative terminals are swapped.
 
Well look at us, R, L & F. :) That's why it's good to ask stupid questions. I think there's a 26 in there now, which seems small for the tray, but would have more cranking power than a 24?
 
I checked out some size 24 info and it appears that the 24 has the positive terminal on the left while the 24F has it on the right with the terminal side of the battery closest to you.

I also ran across a Consumers Reports review of size 24/24F batteries in the July issue. They say the best one is the NAPA Legend Premium 8424F and the best value one is the Bosch 24-700B.

I currently have my Volvo battery turned 90 degrees to fit in the X until I get around to getting my JC Penney Lifetime Battery replaced.
 
I checked out some size 24 info and it appears that the 24 has the positive terminal on the left while the 24F has it on the right with the terminal side of the battery closest to you.

I also ran across a Consumers Reports review of size 24/24F batteries in the July issue. They say the best one is the NAPA Legend Premium 8424F and the best value one is the Bosch 24-700B.

I currently have my Volvo battery turned 90 degrees to fit in the X until I get around to getting my JC Penney Lifetime Battery replaced.

I use the Interstate MT47/H5 (650CCA) from my Volvo, works well. Since the battery tray is the same for all years, there is no reason it wouldn't work in a '74. I bought an M24F (530CCA) as seen below & removed it.

PXL-20210418-204355747.jpg
 
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Thanks folks. Those quick-release, screw off terminal connectors are great. I’ve saved so many fuses with that thing…
Oh, what designates if the posts are at the front, or back of the battery? Are most batteries only labeled on one side, which I’d call the ’front’ if so.
 
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Thanks folks. Those quick-release, screw off terminal connectors are great. I’ve saved so many fuses with that thing…
Oh, what designates if the posts are at the front, or back of the battery? Are most batteries only labeled on one side, which I’d call the ’front’ if so.

I don't think there would be a front/back designation, since rotating the battery would be the answer to that. L/R designation is all the matters, I believe.
 
I have found that some group 24 batteries do not fit; they all fit in the battery tray, but on some the tabs for the carry strap make the battery too wide to fit under the battery cover.

I currently have a group 35 in my car, about 30 mm less width than a group 24. With the battery oriented with the positive post on the left (car left), the posts are towards the front of the battery. Prior to the group 35 I had a group 25. Same size, but with positive on car left, the posts were back by the firewall. Either type fits nicely.
 
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Battery capacities for a given size have gone up significantly since the X was designed. Last time I replaced my JC Penney Lifetime Battery, they put a significantly smaller and lighter battery in. It had higher capacity than the old JCP size 24. I had make some spacers to keep the battery in place but I'll take the weight savings any day.
 
antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx20-rs/
This is what I got ... A little bit larger than a motorcycle battery, 20 amp hour, 680 cranking amps, can be mounted in any orientation, and weighs less than 4lbs! Plus it has 'ReStart' technology. The battery will shut down if the voltage drops to a certain point, then you can push the button to restart it. There will always be power to start the car so you don't get stranded if you leave the lights or radio on etc.... Costs a little more, and you need a new charger for lithium, but is supposed to last 2 to 3 times longer than a lead acid... I love old cars, but there's no reason to lug around 50 or 60 lbs of outdated technology.. 😁
 

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Battery capacities for a given size have gone up significantly since the X was designed. Last time I replaced my JC Penney Lifetime Battery, they put a significantly smaller and lighter battery in. It had higher capacity than the old JCP size 24. I had make some spacers to keep the battery in place but I'll take the weight savings any day.
So now that the alternator has been replaced twice and seems to be working properly (charging between 13.8 and 14.3), the current battery may not be holding a charge properly? How would you test? I installed a volt meter where the ciggy lighter used to be, and it mostly matches what my multimeter reads. The battery charges up to about 12.6, then drops down to 12.3 or thereabouts.
If I don't drive for a couple of days, and turn the ignition to "on" without starting, voltage drops down under 12v, and I get one or two shots to start the car, then the dreaded "it's dead Jim" battery response.
If I let it sit for 30 minutes, the meter goes up 1/3 volt, and I get two more shots to start the car.
Opinions?
Are you still running a JC Penney battery?
 
So now that the alternator has been replaced twice and seems to be working properly (charging between 13.8 and 14.3), the current battery may not be holding a charge properly? How would you test? I installed a volt meter where the ciggy lighter used to be, and it mostly matches what my multimeter reads. The battery charges up to about 12.6, then drops down to 12.3 or thereabouts.
If I don't drive for a couple of days, and turn the ignition to "on" without starting, voltage drops down under 12v, and I get one or two shots to start the car, then the dreaded "it's dead Jim" battery response.
If I let it sit for 30 minutes, the meter goes up 1/3 volt, and I get two more shots to start the car.
Opinions?
Are you still running a JC Penney battery?
If you are getting between 13.8 and 14.3V with the engine running, it sounds like your alternator is fixed. With my car sitting for a few days, it gets down into the 12.7 range. If your battery is going down to 12.3V rapidly, it is possible that either the battery is bad or you have something drawing significant current with the car off. A good way to test your battery chemistry is to get a hydrometer. They only cost a few bucks and will tell you the condition by measuring the specific gravity of the fluid inside. You need to be able to remove the battery caps to use it. Some are twist off, some are pry-off (usually 3 cells together) and I've heard that some are actually sealed. You can check for leakage current in your system by putting an ammeter in series with the battery. Start out on the highest current range and make sure nothing that draws significant current is on (including the interior lights from an open door). If the car is drawing more current than the meter can handle, it will either blow a fuse in the meter if it has one, or blow itself up so be careful when doing it. If it does not show much on the high scale, go down to a more sensitive scale to get a good reading.

Yes, I am still running a warranty replacement for my original JC Penney Lifetime Battery. I just got it replaced a few months ago. Firestone now handles the warranty and they gave me a Die Hard Silver 2 year warranty battery. Of course, I can always turn it in for a new one if it goes bad since it is covered by the JC Penney warranty.
 
If you are getting between 13.8 and 14.3V with the engine running, it sounds like your alternator is fixed. With my car sitting for a few days, it gets down into the 12.7 range. If your battery is going down to 12.3V rapidly, it is possible that either the battery is bad or you have something drawing significant current with the car off. A good way to test your battery chemistry is to get a hydrometer. They only cost a few bucks and will tell you the condition by measuring the specific gravity of the fluid inside. You need to be able to remove the battery caps to use it. Some are twist off, some are pry-off (usually 3 cells together) and I've heard that some are actually sealed. You can check for leakage current in your system by putting an ammeter in series with the battery. Start out on the highest current range and make sure nothing that draws significant current is on (including the interior lights from an open door). If the car is drawing more current than the meter can handle, it will either blow a fuse in the meter if it has one, or blow itself up so be careful when doing it. If it does not show much on the high scale, go down to a more sensitive scale to get a good reading.

Yes, I am still running a warranty replacement for my original JC Penney Lifetime Battery. I just got it replaced a few months ago. Firestone now handles the warranty and they gave me a Die Hard Silver 2 year warranty battery. Of course, I can always turn it in for a new one if it goes bad since it is covered by the JC Penney warranty.
While testing bulbs, etc today, I had the headlights on for about five minutes without the engine running. Went from 12.1v to 9.5v rather quickly, and of course then needed to be recharged. The battery is a Super Start Economy 26 (O'Reilly's house brand). So yeah, I'm thinking it's been recharged one too many times. I've left headlights on for twice that long in other cars with no problems.
 
While testing bulbs, etc today, I had the headlights on for about five minutes without the engine running. Went from 12.1v to 9.5v rather quickly, and of course then needed to be recharged. The battery is a Super Start Economy 26 (O'Reilly's house brand). So yeah, I'm thinking it's been recharged one too many times. I've left headlights on for twice that long in other cars with no problems.
If your lights draw ~12 amps and it dropped to 9.5 V in 5 minutes (1/12 hr.) that gives the battery a 1 amp hour capacity. Maybe you should try 8 AA batteries. At least you should get 2 - 3 amp hours out of them! The spec for the size 24 battery that was originally fitted was 60 amp hours so perhaps your battery is past its prime. If I didn't have a free supply of size 24 batteries, I'd likely look for something smaller and lighter that meets the original spec as batteries have improved quite a bit since 1974.
 
With
I have found that some group 24 batteries do not fit; they all fit in the battery tray, but on some the tabs for the carry strap make the battery too wide to fit under the battery cover.

I currently have a group 35 in my car, about 30 mm less width than a group 24. With the battery oriented with the positive post on the left (car left), the posts are towards the front of the battery. Prior to the group 35 I had a group 25. Same size, but with positive on car left, the posts were back by the firewall. Either type fits nicely.
With your smaller 35, and the posts at the front, any problem fitting the stock, FIAT plastic cover on?
 
24 is the original size, and if you're going for a battery with the highest capacity in that given location then 24 is your choice. 24F is the same battery but with the terminals reversed. I needed a battery for my new project 74 and bought an Exide battery from Home Depot. 24 had 650 CCA and was $119. I chose a $99 group 86 because it was the same as a 24 but about 1" shorter in height. This will make the cover fit easier, plus it's a little lighter weight which I usually try to do. The group 86 has 550 CCA but that's still plenty for this little car.
 
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24 is the original size, and if you're going for a battery with the highest capacity in that given location then 24 is your choice. 24F is the same battery but with the terminals reversed. I needed a battery for my new project 74 and bought an Exide battery from Home Depot. 24 had 650 CCA and was $119. I chose a $99 group 86 because it was the same as a 24 but about 1" shorter in height. This will make the cover fit easier, plus it's a little lighter weight which I usually try to do. The group 86 has 550 CCA but that's plenty much for this little car.
My cover clears a 24 with plenty of room but if you can save a few pounds with an 86 it sounds like a benefit over the 24. It would be interesting to see what group has the shortest height/lowest weight with the same footprint as the 24. At one time I had a much smaller battery that required wood blocks to keep it from moving so a lighter battery with the same footprint as a 24 would save a bit of work to keep things in place.
 
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