1987 X with 42k miles

Yes I did

I did go drive it but I have never driven an X before or know very much about them. I believe he took it up to New England and will be trying to sell from there. It is the car from the original 86/87 debate that is posted near the top of the thread, also here http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/18933
The body seemed pretty clean, paint showing its age. Mechanicaly sound but not an expert on these things. My issues were lots of little cosmetic things including a cracked dash.
 
In the pictures of this car, what are people doing to the tachometer to make the needle rest a zero ( I see this alot in Xs) when it should be resting at the 500 rpm range?
 
Just talked to the seller

The car has been moved to his parent's house in Suffield, CT (near Springfield, MA). He said you can still reach him through the original CraigsList ad.

Dave
 
Roger, you can pull the needle and re-insert it...

Tachs need not be accurate, you just need to know when to back off or shift when its pointing to SOMETHING. Use a test Tach that clips onto the coil and ground to determine ACTUAL Rpms and make a mental not of it.

OR...

You can remove and adjust the needle to point at the number that is indeed accurate at the PEAK RPM you don't wish to exceed... and where it rests when idle or off is of no real consequence. Kinda like a "shift-light" used on race cars... They don't care what the number is, when the light comes on, do something else!

If you are looking for accuracy with this stock gauge... you might go nuts by adding and subtracting weight on the needle or counterweight... or go even further with coil windings... But just remember, no ANALOG gauge is accurate throughout its full needle range or travel. A good compromise is OK and just knowing where it points when its idling RIGHT and what rpm NOT to exceed are the only real points you need to concern yourself with.

HTH...
 
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