'81 X Front Wheel Bearings

T

TheTallOne

Daily Driver
Howdy all,

I'm replacing the front right wheel bearing on my '81 X, and reading the service manual and previous threads isn't lining up with what I am finding in the hub.

I unstaked and removed the nut and washer, pressed out the hub, and removed the inner thrust ring. This revealed the inside of the old bearing, with no gasket (number 5 in the diagrams) to be found. I think I have the outer thrust ring still in the hub, presumably with the locking ring and outer gasket between the bearing and thrust ring.

Does anyone have tips for removing the outer thrust ring? (I have a replacement)

Other tips and tricks are also appreciated
 
Hi, what diagram are you referring to with "#5"? Any pictures of what you have so far? I'm not completely following your description, sorry. Thanks
 
there are two distinctly different wheel bearing setups for the front of an X19... up to 1978, and then 1979 onwards... my guess is you're referring to the wrong picture for the early type.

Your front wheel bearing is held in place with a large circlip, not a threaded locking.

SteveC
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Hi, what diagram are you referring to with "#5"? Any pictures of what you have so far? I'm not completely following your description, sorry. Thanks
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LrAzWJbr.png


I definitely have 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, & 10. A chunk of bushing came out with the hub which I assume is 7. What I haven't figured out is how to remove 9 to get to 8 for removal (if I have it) before pressing out 6. Suggestions?

EDIT: A bit of aggressive prying with a claw hamer persuaded number 9 to come free. Glad that I have replacements for that part

From instructions I have seen, these bearings are sealed and do not require extra grease, correct?
LrAzWJb
 
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5 and 7 are what are known as V ring seals.

To remove the circlip 8, my trick is to get the hub onto the drill press and drill a very small hole thru to the underside of the circlip groove (at the lowest point so it doesn't in future allow for water ingress) and thru the freshly drilled hole get to the backside of the circlip to push it out. after reinstall I plug the hole with a little silicone.

The reason for the hole is the circlip has no "ears" to grab.... I've never seen a Fiat service bulletin that describes how, or seen a tool that could grab the circlp in situ.

If you get a wheel bearing complete kit, it will have the V rings and pressed steel slinger plates (incorrectly described in the Fiat text as thrust rings) included in the kit.

SteveC
 
fiatfactory said:
5 and 7 are what are known as V ring seals.

To remove the circlip 8, my trick is to get the hub onto the drill press and drill a very small hole thru to the underside of the circlip groove (at the lowest point so it doesn't in future allow for water ingress) and thru the freshly drilled hole get to the backside of the circlip to push it out. after reinstall I plug the hole with a little silicone.

The reason for the hole is the circlip has no "ears" to grab.... I've never seen a Fiat service bulletin that describes how, or seen a tool that could grab the circlp in situ.

If you get a wheel bearing complete kit, it will have the V rings and pressed steel slinger plates (incorrectly described in the Fiat text as thrust rings) included in the kit.

SteveC
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Sounds perfect, thanks! I'll have to hunt down new seals probably, but being 30 minutes from Vick Auto should make that fairly painless. I'll get after drilling the hub in the morning
 
TheTallOne said:
I'll have to hunt down new seals probably
Click to expand...
Those V-ring seals (#5 and 7) kind of seem to be something of a redundant item. The bearing is sealed and does not require additional external seals. Other vehicles with the same design of sealed wheel bearing arrangement do not have them. I'm not saying they aren't needed, perhaps their intent was to keep other items clean (not the bearings). But I wouldn't be too worried about replacing them with new ones if your old seals are in reasonable shape and can be reinstalled. I think they might be a little difficult to find new? I haven't looked lately but a while back that seemed to be the case (for me anyway).
 
from memory last time I bought some it was a V-50 seal from SKF.

https://www.skf.com/au/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/v-ring-seals-pt/index.html?designation=50 VS R

actually quite necessary... early 128's had no V rings and just steel slingers, despite the same sealed bearing (well the same as the four speed X19 F & R) the bearing life was never that great... upgrade to the later lockring with the integral V seal and fit a V ring and slinger plate to the hub side, and bearing life definitely improves... so it does work to keep dirt and water out of the bearing.


And Beezee is right, put the hub out in the sun for a while, and wrap the bearing in clingwrap and put it in the freezer for an hour before you're ready to install, slides together much easier. When you push the wheel flange thru the bearing, make sure you support the lower inner race (an old inner race works well) as does the old outer bearing shell with a slit down the side as an install tool on the press for fitting the bearing to the hub, you want the slit down the side to stop it getting jammed when you push the bearing home.

SteveC
 
TheTallOne said:
LrAzWJbr.png

LrAzWJb
Click to expand...

the diagram is also a little misleading, as it shows the components not actually in the correct order for assembly.

The V rings (5 & 7) ...the inner V ring sits on the ridge / step in the fat steel washer that sits under the stake nut (so 5 is in the right place) but the outer V ring seal pushes onto the step / lip in the wheel flange (10 in the pic) so 7 is shown out of sequence, it should be placed between 9 and 10. Lubricate the sealing lip of the V ring with a little oil or better silicone / rubber grease when fitting.

The steel slinger plates / discs press lightly into the hub after the bearing is seated but before the wheel flange gets pushed thru...don't tap tap tap tap these, they distort easily, best way is to get an appropriate sized socket and with the hub held firmly, with one swift firm hit drive it home into the hub. So they are shown (2 and 9) out of sequence... 2 is actually positioned between 5 and 6 in service. (and is shown in the pictures reversed to how it actually fits) The outer Slinger disc (9) is shown reversed, and would have V seal (7) between it and the wheel flange (10)

SteveC
 
fiatfactory said:
the diagram is also a little misleading, as it shows the components not actually in the correct order for assembly.

The V rings (5 & 7) ...the inner V ring sits on the ridge / step in the fat steel washer that sits under the stake nut (so 5 is in the right place) but the outer V ring seal pushes onto the step / lip in the wheel flange (10 in the pic) so 7 is shown out of sequence, it should be placed between 9 and 10. Lubricate the sealing lip of the V ring with a little oil or better silicone / rubber grease when fitting.

The steel slinger plates / discs press lightly into the hub after the bearing is seated but before the wheel flange gets pushed thru...don't tap tap tap tap these, they distort easily, best way is to get an appropriate sized socket and with the hub held firmly, with one swift firm hit drive it home into the hub. So they are shown (2 and 9) out of sequence... 2 is actually positioned between 5 and 6 in service. (and is shown in the pictures reversed to how it actually fits) The outer Slinger disc (9) is shown reversed, and would have V seal (7) between it and the wheel flange (10)

SteveC
Click to expand...
Maybe that's why the bearings wear out, hapless shadetree folks are trying to follow the shop manual diagram and getting it ass backwards!
 
And that's not the only incorrect illustration in the manual. There are a few with things out of order, reversed, etc. Guess it's a good thing I never bother to refer to any manuals? :oops:
 
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