A 500 added to the stable...

[JKIDD]

So, I'd been considering getting a different daily driver. Also, my daughter wants to learn to drive a stick. A 500 was on the list of possibilities & after talking to a bunch of 500 owners at the FFO, I bought 1. 2012, 143K. Not going to win any beauty contests, but it was CHEAP! There are a few issues I'll need some guidance on. The rear hatch doesn't open. No click from the handle or fob. I assume a bad actuator? Next, code for the clutch switch, very small evap leak & bank 2 O2 heater. (I'll post the codes) Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[beezee]

My 2012 had the same problem with the trunk not opening (it’s a convertible). There was corrosion in the connection from the switch to the wiring harness connector.

 

[JimD]

Congrats JKIDD!

My daughter has an automatic 2013 500 Pop she bought in 2018 with about 70,000 miles on it. It has been a very good car for her, even after the Missouri Highway Department crushed it a bit with a big truck. She had only had it a month when this happened. The body shop said it was mostly cosmetic and made it look right. In short, I am impressed with the 500's ability to take a hit.


I think you and your daughter will enjoy the "new" vehicle.

Just FYI, we got an engine light about 3 weeks ago. It was also related to the catalytic system, but we were advised to try a new gas cap first. Got a cap off Amazon and we haven't seen the light come back on. Might not be your issue, but I thought I would throw it out there.

 

[JKIDD]

Congrats JKIDD!

My daughter has an automatic 2013 500 Pop she bought in 2018 with about 70,000 miles on it. It has been a very good car for her, even after the Missouri Highway Department crushed it a bit with a big truck. She had only had it a month when this happened. The body shop said it was mostly cosmetic and made it look right. In short, I am impressed with the 500's ability to take a hit.
View attachment 74680View attachment 74681View attachment 74682

I think you and your daughter will enjoy the "new" vehicle.

Just FYI, we got an engine light about 3 weeks ago. It was also related to the catalytic system, but we were advised to try a new gas cap first. Got a cap off Amazon and we haven't seen the light come back on. Might not be your issue, but I thought I would throw it out there.

I saw this post as part of the research I was doing on the 500's. Glad it got repaired OK. I cleared the code to see if it comes back. I was suspecting the cap. This was cheap enough to see if I like it or not. If I do, I'm going Abarth hunting

 

[JKIDD]

My 2012 had the same problem with the trunk not opening (it’s a convertible). There was corrosion in the connection from the switch to the wiring harness connector.

Already found the broken & chaffed wires in the rubber between the body & hatch. Repaired the broken 1 & now it pops every time. Need to tape up the others & add a wire loom for support.

 

[JKIDD]

There was an awful howl and vibration in the car. Both rear wheel bearings are shot. Groan when moved by hand & play in both wheels. Rock Auto has them for 12 bucks each! We'll see how good they are. Also ordered a clutch switch, filters and wipers. Still under 100 bucks shipped.

 

[Jonohhh]

Already found the broken & chaffed wires in the rubber between the body & hatch. Repaired the broken 1 & now it pops every time. Need to tape up the others & add a wire loom for support.

Was just about to warn you of this.

Not fiats best work regarding strain relief and wire routing

 

[Jonohhh]

There was an awful howl and vibration in the car. Both rear wheel bearings are shot. Groan when moved by hand & play in both wheels. Rock Auto has them for 12 bucks each! We'll see how good they are. Also ordered a clutch switch, filters and wipers. Still under 100 bucks shipped.

I had to mess with my clutch switch as a part of my T-jet swap, and I gotta say, that thing is UP there. Good luck getting to it!

It should bring you flashbacks of the X1/9 Master Cylinder job

 

[JKIDD]

Got the wheel bearings in tonight. Drivers side had the famous "rounded caliper bracket bolt". Got it out with heat and a flair nut wrench. Modified a Hyundai brake caliper bolt to replace it. Bearing fell apart once the nut was removed. Other side went easier & that Bearing fell apart as well. My torque wrench goes to 150 so I have 1 coming tomorrow to torque the hub nuts properly. Discovered the rear brakes are almost done so they will be added to the list...

 

[kmead]

Got the wheel bearings in tonight. Drivers side had the famous "rounded caliper bracket bolt". Got it out with heat and a flair nut wrench. Modified a Hyundai brake caliper bolt to replace it. Bearing fell apart once the nut was removed. Other side went easier & that Bearing fell apart as well. My torque wrench goes to 150 so I have 1 coming tomorrow to torque the hub nuts properly. Discovered the rear brakes are almost done so they will be added to the list...

18” breaker bar = 1.5 times your weight…

One could creap up along the bar until the weight to lever ratio gives you the torque you need.

 

[JKIDD]

18” breaker bar = 1.5 times your weight…

One could creap up along the bar until the weight to lever ratio gives you the torque you need.

Good to know. Already got the wrench & properly torqued the nuts. Bad noises gone...

 

[JKIDD]

I had to mess with my clutch switch as a part of my T-jet swap, and I gotta say, that thing is UP there. Good luck getting to it!

It should bring you flashbacks of the X1/9 Master Cylinder job

So, this was fun..... Hardest part was getting the new switch plugged back in. Pigtail was short & can only get 1 hand up there. Finally got it. Now lets hope my permanent code goes away.

 

[JKIDD]

Been chasing the "Hill Assist Disabled" & "ESC" light. Checked the 3 related fuses under the hood, no luck. Cleaned the 3 grounds under the battery tray, no change. Checked the front wheel sensor connections, seemed OK. Back up & brake lights functioning. Replaced the brake light switch as many suggested, nope.... Finally found a recommendation to check a fuse under the dash. Found 2 bad. Violia! Lights are out! Should have known to check the simple stuff first, but doing the research online, nobody mentioned the fuses under the dash...

 

[JKIDD]

Been a Fiat day. Moved on to changing the downstream O2 sensor. Had a bad heater circuit code. Actually came right out. AC wasn't working. Fan switch would only blow when in the off position. AC button did nothing. Pulled the panel & noticed the fan switch alone was held in the panel by 3 tabs. Managed to get it out & make the AC button "click" & suddenly got cold air! OK AC works! Ordered a replacement switch on EBAY. $21.49 & free shipping. Should have by the end of next week. While changing the O2 sensor, noticed a ripped boot on the LH axle & the tranny seal leaking. Will need to add to the list. Seems to run, drive, & shift fine. Clutch feels good. So far not bad for 1300 bucks.

 

[kmead]

Been a Fiat day. Moved on to changing the downstream O2 sensor. Had a bad heater circuit code. Actually came right out. AC wasn't working. Fan switch would only blow when in the off position. AC button did nothing. Pulled the panel & noticed the fan switch alone was held in the panel by 3 tabs. Managed to get it out & make the AC button "click" & suddenly got cold air! OK AC works! Ordered a replacement switch on EBAY. $21.49 & free shipping. Should have by the end of next week. While changing the O2 sensor, noticed a ripped boot on the LH axle & the tranny seal leaking. Will need to add to the list. Seems to run, drive, & shift fine. Clutch feels good. So far not bad for 1300 bucks.

Wow 1300 bucks, now that is a good deal. Dang!

 

[JKIDD]

After driving around the hood a few times, (not registered yet) the permanent code for the O2 sensor & clutch switch are gone. Just have the (very) small evaporated leak. New gas cap on order along with a timing belt and tensioner.

 

[JKIDD]

Wow 1300 bucks, now that is a good deal. Dang!

The car was listed at $1999. Called the # & the guy was selling for his father. (his new EV was just delivered) Known issues were Evap code, downstream O2 code, clutch switch code, hatch didn't open, noise in rear wheel, some bumps & bruises, & interior has paint here & there. He seemed to be telling it like it is & in a hurry to sell. He was willing to go to 1800, but I needed to think as it was 3 hours away. He called me back the next day to see if I was interested & I told him it was a little too much & was going to pass. He called later in the day & went down another $200. So I decided to take the trip the next AM. The car ran & drove good, but the howling from the rear was awful. Car was dirty. I believe it had the original dirt & never was washed once. Possibly parked inside only when it rained so none of the dirt would wash off... Interior was the same. When I checked the A/C, nothing. That was enough for me to tap out as that can get expensive. I told him I was going to pass & he asked what my bottom line was. Threw out 1300 figuring he'd say no, but I was wrong. Next statement I made was "what have I done..." I probably could have gone lower...
So far I've done both rear wheel bearings ($25) Air filters, oil & oil filter, serpentine belt, clutch switch, brake switch, wiper blades & headlight bulbs ($135). AC will work with a new switch (on order from Ebay $22). O2 sensor ($40). Got the hatch to work by repairing the famous broken wires. Replaced a couple fuses. Only code left is for the small evap leak.
Gave it a good bath on the outside, including all the crud buildup in the door jambs, hatch area, fuel filler area,and under the hood. Washed the windows inside as well. Polished a couple spots they tried to remove something from & scratched the surface. Looks way better now. Got a temp 20 day plate from the DMV (10 bucks) & drove it 100 miles last night. Drove really good! Starting with a gas cap for the evap code. That, brakes (needed soon-ish) & a timing belt are in my Rock Auto cart ($170). Will need to replace the LR side marker lens & 3 side marker bulbs. Now I'm starting to believe I did alright.

 

[kmead]

The car was listed at $1999. Called the # & the guy was selling for his father. (his new EV was just delivered) Known issues were Evap code, downstream O2 code, clutch switch code, hatch didn't open, noise in rear wheel, some bumps & bruises, & interior has paint here & there. He seemed to be telling it like it is & in a hurry to sell. He was willing to go to 1800, but I needed to think as it was 3 hours away. He called me back the next day to see if I was interested & I told him it was a little too much & was going to pass. He called later in the day & went down another $200. So I decided to take the trip the next AM. The car ran & drove good, but the howling from the rear was awful. Car was dirty. I believe it had the original dirt & never was washed once. Possibly parked inside only when it rained so none of the dirt would wash off... Interior was the same. When I checked the A/C, nothing. That was enough for me to tap out as that can get expensive. I told him I was going to pass & he asked what my bottom line was. Threw out 1300 figuring he'd say no, but I was wrong. Next statement I made was "what have I done..." I probably could have gone lower...
So far I've done both rear wheel bearings ($25) Air filters, oil & oil filter, serpentine belt, clutch switch, brake switch, wiper blades & headlight bulbs ($135). AC will work with a new switch (on order from Ebay $22). O2 sensor ($40). Got the hatch to work by repairing the famous broken wires. Replaced a couple fuses. Only code left is for the small evap leak.
Gave it a good bath on the outside, including all the crud buildup in the door jambs, hatch area, fuel filler area,and under the hood. Washed the windows inside as well. Polished a couple spots they tried to remove something from & scratched the surface. Looks way better now. Got a temp 20 day plate from the DMV (10 bucks) & drove it 100 miles last night. Drove really good! Starting with a gas cap for the evap code. That, brakes (needed soon-ish) & a timing belt are in my Rock Auto cart ($170). Will need to replace the LR side marker lens & 3 side marker bulbs. Now I'm starting to believe I did alright.

Yes it could have ended very poorly. Amazing to me how folks choose not to maintain a car they spent good money for.

Lots of work and learning. I would imagine if you had to pay someone for all this it would have been thousands to resolve your list which is what that person was facing and chose to cut their losses.

It is also amazing how much abuse a modern car can absorb.

 

[lookforjoe]

Already found the broken & chaffed wires in the rubber between the body & hatch. Repaired the broken 1 & now it pops every time. Need to tape up the others & add a wire loom for support.

On my wife's 2012 - the harness was mostly severed, and hers has only has 50K miles.
2012 had issues with the starter connection / ground. Add an auxiliary ground cable from the block to the chassis. It can cook the main bearings if the ground is bad.

 

[JKIDD]

Fan switch is in and works as it should. Changed the gas cap & still get the "check fuel cap" warning message. Next is the vapor leak detection pump (coming today). Only 20 bucks & is listed as a common failure on these. Yet to check the purge solenoid for vacuum. Got the brakes & rotors, but that's a future project as the current ones are still "legal".
Cleaned the seats & got out most of the dirt & grime. Just left with the paint stains. Pulled the cabin air filter & convinced its the OEM unit. It fits with how dirty everything else was.
Have now run a full tank of fuel thru it & it really runs & drives pretty good.