adjusting valves on a 1300

Karfrik

Albert
Hi guys, was fixing a cam housing oil leak on the 128,so why not change the stock cam with a 1500 euro one that i bought yrs ago.A mechanic friend has all the shims and tool plus some experience as he owns a Yugo but its been a while since hes done it.
The only issue we are having is converting from standard to metric or vice-versa.
Remember seeing and reading here somewhere how to do the conversion,but didnt saved it.
Thanks in ad advance!!
 
valve adjustment on an existing cam works best with the tool, but a cam change will require removing the cam box from the head. Once the timing belt, cam gear, and cam box is removed, you can take the end plate off (3 bolts) and slide the cam out.

Inserting a new cam just involves sliding the new cam on the cam box (use assembly lube on the cam box journals and cam lobes).

For adjustment - you could go a couple ways... Plan A is good if you know the base circle of both camshafts are close to each other. Plan B is good if you don't have an install tool or a large selection of shims to do the job, or you're not sure if additional work might be needed to make the tappet clearances correct (like milling the cam box).

Plan A:
1. With the timing belt off, turn the crankshaft 90 degrees forward from TDC to make sure no valves hit any piston during assembly.
2. put all 8 tappets in the cam box with the smallest shim thicknesses your mechanic has, then torque the cam box on.
3. with the tool, start checking clearances on the first cyl. You want to check the clearances when the intake and exhaust cam lobes are making a "V" formation for that cylinder, then when you have the first cyl shimmed correctly, remove the tool and turn the cam to the next cylinder with the lobes making a "V: and repeat until all 4 cyls are done.
7. do a double check of each cyl to see if your specs are correct. If so, then install line up the timing marks (cam first, then turn crank backwards to remove that 90 degrees you had moved it to earlier) and install the cam belt and the rest of the parts.....

Plan B:
1. With the timing belt off, turn the crankshaft 90 degrees forward from TDC to make sure no valves hit any piston during assembly.
2. Place the cam in position for TDC on cyl #1 - the cam lobes will make a "V" formation.
3. put just 2 tappets in the cam box for cyl #1 with the smallest shim thicknesses your mechanic has.
4. drop the cam box onto the headand just cinch down with a couple bolts just to make sure it's seated. Measure the clearance of the tappets on cyl 1 and note how far off your clearance is. Remove the two bolts and lift off the cam box and install the shims with the correct thickness and place the box on the head again. Once you are sure you have the correct clearance, remove the cam box and the tappets for number one cyl and set them aside.
5. Repeat numbers 2, 3, and 4 until you have all 4 cylinder and 8 tappets checked and ready to install all together.
6. Place all the tappets in the order they were checked back into the cam box and bolt the cam box with gasket to the head and torque to spec.
7. do a double check of each cyl to see if your specs are correct. If so, then install line up the timing marks (cam first, then turn crank backwards to remove that 90 degrees you had moved it to earlier) and install the cam belt and the rest of the parts.....
 
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1.000 inches = 25.4 mm. Divide a metric (mm) measurement by 25.4 to get the equivalent inch value. Multiply an inch measurement by 25.4 to get the metric equivalent.

Since all of my measurement equipment is in inches, I measure all of the shims with a micrometer and write the inch decimal value on the shim with a Sharpie (permanent marker). A lesson I learned from the gurus early on.

Another tip: removing the hood makes for a much easier time adjusting the valves. My back certainly thanks me for it.

That reminds me, it's about time to do the valves on my Rally...
 
1.000 inches = 25.4 mm. Divide a metric (mm) measurement by 25.4 to get the equivalent inch value. Multiply an inch measurement by 25.4 to get the metric equivalent.

Since all of my measurement equipment is in inches, I measure all of the shims with a micrometer and write the inch decimal value on the shim with a Sharpie (permanent marker). A lesson I learned from the gurus early on.

Another tip: removing the hood makes for a much easier time adjusting the valves. My back certainly thanks me for it.

That reminds me, it's about time to do the valves on my Rally...

Thanks Courtney!!
 
25.4 is what I use when multiplying inches to metric
0.03937 is what I use when multiplying metric to inches
 
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