Air Filter Question

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User1

RETIRED Admin, pm OFF
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 2 1999 at 2:08 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "b";n54_em = n54_em + "r";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "v";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "b";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "a"; document.write("Stu Brennan"); // --> </SCRIPT>Stu Brennan <NOSCRIPT> Stu Brennan </NOSCRIPT> [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I was thinking of putting a K&N air filter on my car. Has anybody done this and do you think its worthwhile? Any problems with the fit? Thanks Stu<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 2 1999, 3:01 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Stu,
what year is your car, carb or F.I., 1300 or 1500?
I have one on my 1300 carb. Looks great, sounds great, lets you see and get to things much better.
With some bigger jets, you might even get a little more power.
Ulix
Yellow '74<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 3 1999, 9:24 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The car is a 1978 with a 1300cc. Am I correct in assuming that you replaced the whole air cleaner assembly? What happens to the carb cooling fan or is this not really necessary?
What size jets do you recommend, more power would be very useful going up some of the mountain hills.
I'm still having trouble with the idle speed and the timing. I am going to pull the valve cover off and check the cam visually but I'm somewhat confused about the timing still. In my experience the #1 cyl (closest to the timing belt) fires at top dead centre. This means that the valves for the #1 should be closed at tdc. The manual says that at tdc the distributor should be firing the #4 plug. I have it set up now so that at tdc its firing the 4 plug which means that the valves for these cyl must be closed. I am assuming that if I check the cam this should be the case and the cam lobes will be pointing up on number 4 at tdc. I used the dot on the crankshaft flywheel as suggested to set the crank at tdc and the little bump on the motor mount to set the crankshaft at tdc with the dist. firing the #4 plug.
Am I out in left field or on the right track.
Thanks for the help. Stu<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Filter & Timing<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 4 1999, 9:16 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
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Stu,

Yes, the whole filter assembly is replaced...

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X74engine.jpg
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For now, I am not running the carb fan, but you can make a simple bracket to hold the fan nozzle and keep using it. You should increase both main jets by 5. So if you have 110 and 120 mains, go to 115 and 125 mains. You can order them from Pierce Manifolds or Bayless or many other places.

TIMING
On the X1/9 engine, #1 and #4 cylinder go up and down together. They are at TDC at the same time. The cam rotates at half the speed as the crank, so when 1&4 are at TDC, either one can be firing (valves closed) while the other one has both valves slightly open (split overlap). The mark on the cam is such that when it is lined up with the pointer, #4 has both valves closed, #1 is at split overlap. Hence, #4 needs to be firing.

Now, when you do IGNITION timing, you don't care about the cam pointer, only the crank pointer. For this reason, it doesn't matter if you connect the timing light to 1 or 4, you'll get the same result. So, you have everything set up correctly, you just have to get the crank/cam mark stuff down :)

You said you thought #1 fired at TDC. This is true, but if you rotate the engine 360deg, #4 fires at TDC. Remember it's a 4-stroke, so there is fire only every other revolution. They could have put the mark on the cam wheel such that #1 is firing, then you wouldn't be confused at all!

Your cam timing sounds like it is correct. What are your symptoms? Could you have a vacuum leak somewhere? How is your ignition timing set now? How many degress at what rpm with the vacuum line on or off?

Ulix
Yellow '74

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 4 1999, 9:18 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The picture was a great help. Looks like a neat installation. How do you tell the size of your current jets?

Timing
Thanks for the explanation of timing it helps me understand what I am trying to do much better.

The symptoms are as follows:
Starts fine but idles roughly and stalls if idle speed drops below about 1500rpm. Seems to run fine at speed has power and revs over 7000 with no problem.

I have been playing with the mixture and moving the mixture screw doesn't have much effect until it is almost completely out or in. If I put my hand over the carb intake and reduce the airflow it picks up power and runs better almost as though it was running too rich. I pulled the carb and the bowl and jets were clean. It was running and idling fine before I changed the belt so I dont really suspect the carb but if timing is correct I'm sort of lost.

When I did the timing I set it for tdc at 850 rpm with the vacuum hose to the dist. plugged. This appears to be the only vacuum connection and plugging or unplugging the hose doesn't seem to have any effect.

I would suspect based on your description that I had the timing 180 out except that the flywheel mark (its a centre punched dot on the flywheel isnt it) is aligned with the slots ok and I wouldn't expect much power with this setup and it seems fine at higher rpm.

My current thinking is that maybe the float level is incorrect causing it to run to rich at idle but again it ran fine before the belt change so this seems doubtful but I'm fresh out of other ideas.
Thanks for putting on your detective cap and trying to help. <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 4 1999, 9:22 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Stu,

the jets have little numbers on them. The mains are the two center ones. When you unscrew them, a "cylinder" about 2" long comes out. It is actually three pieces. The top is teh air corrector jet, the middle is the emulsion tube, the bottom is the main jet. All 3 are marked with their size.

I don't know a lot about timing vacuum distributors since I don't have one. But I THINK you are supposed to set it to 10 deg BTDC with the vacuum disconnected. This may be your whole problem.

Check out http://we.got.net/~fiatplus/tech698.htm

That's what I am betting on...

Ulix (10 degrees is the answer :)

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 4 1999, 9:24 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 90px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'll try retiming and check the jets. I'm going to get the sucker running properly this weekend if I have to pull it apart bit by bit. Many thanks for your advice and help. Stu<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 4 1999, 9:40 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 105px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Sound advice, man! I even learned a few things reading that :)

Hey Stu, I had a similar problem with the carb on my '75 1300cc X. It was running quite well for a good long time and then for no apparent reason the thing decides it doesn't want to idle anymore. Ran like a top at any speed but the minute you try to drop back to idle speed it wanted to stall out. I checked all the obvious stuff, connections and linkages, unscrewed the jets and blew through them with compressed air - still doing it...

So I took the carb apart, already had a carb kit (new needle valve, gaskets, etc.) and just did that. The problem vanished thereafter, but then again I was absolutely sure of the timing being set properly at the time.

More often it is a timing issue, so be sure to get that squared away first - sounds like you're already there with one exception (which is really just a technicality anyway): The service manual states to set ignition timing at 0 degrees WHILE the vacuum line is connected, then to remove and plug it. This should cause timing to drift up toward 10 degrees advance. Then it says to reconnect the line and that, over a few seconds, the timing should drift back toward zero.

That's just FYI though, as I don't know that it really will make a big difference. Tell us how it goes! Peace, -Mac.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 7 1999, 10:27 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 120px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The advice of someone familiar with this type of vehicle is greatly appreciated and especially where their expertise is obvious. My wifes truck blew its head gasket on Friday so I spent the weekend changing it rather than work on my fiat. Not what I had planned but cranky truck make for cranky wife and I know what my priorities better be. Anyway hope to finish it tonight and then on to the elusive fiat problem. Thanks again and stay tuned for the party announcement when I get it on the road. Stu<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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