Another Floor Patch...

lookforjoe

lookforjoe

True Classic
....Took out the seats & carpets this afternoon.. removed a large pile of tar paper

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driver's side

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bunch of small perforations along the edge

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good back here

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pass side, very little perforation, one hole in the rocker by the lower arrow

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cleaned off all the loose scaling & wire wheeled around holes. Floor was pushed up in front of rust hole on inside by tunnel. I applied judicious use of a large hammer & piece of 4x4 as drift.

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I applied a light coat of POR15 & fibreglass sheet over holes

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I'll give it another coat tomorrow, then patch from the outside.

So, where do people locate appropriate sound deadening material that doesn't cost a fortune?
 
I wonder what the difference is between the regular POR 15 paint and the tank sealer stuff. I used tank sealer on my floor spots.
 
I don't know - I'll check the contents tomorrow & post 'em.

I'd expect you will find similar (to mine) rust damage inside your floors, based on what you patched outside....
 
The local auto body supply will have a very close approximation of the sheet asphalt-like material that was removed, if that's the way you want to go.

There is a dizzying variety of Dyna-Mats and Dyna-Mat-clones available on eBay and other specialty sites.

If it were me, looking at the extensive rust damage on four of the five sides of the pan, I would have had a new driver's floor pan welded in. The pass side looked like it was repairable.
 
Thanks for your input.

The rust is not that bad - the only "large" holes are close to the rocker on the driver's side - the other arrows indicate pin holes. obviously, the sheet metal thickness has been compromised, but I'm not going to cut & weld for that. The other edges are all just surface rust, not perforation. The pass side has no perforations through the floor pan, only one on the side of the inner rocker in the vicinity of where the drain tube appears to pass through.

Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
The local auto body supply will have a very close approximation of the sheet asphalt-like material that was removed, if that's the way you want to go.

There is a dizzying variety of Dyna-Mats and Dyna-Mat-clones available on eBay and other specialty sites.

If it were me, looking at the extensive rust damage on four of the five sides of the pan, I would have had a new driver's floor pan welded in. The pass side looked like it was repairable.
Click to expand...
 
POR15 & fibreglass dried over several days, painted with rustoleum 'Sunrise Red" - very close match to the OE paint

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drilled & installed Volvo wheel well drain grommet :rolleyes2:

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pass side

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There was water in the drivers floor after the rain we've been having - after checking with the garden hose trying to simulate the fall pattern of rain :D - it turns out the water was getting in around the top left of the windshield & running down the left pillar, behind the dash & dripping onto the left inner rocker & into the floor well. Probably why the floor was rotted in the first place. I resealed with 3M grommeted windshield sealer & no more leak.

Next question is, what do people use to reinstall the windshield trim - it seems it was glued/siliconed to the glass? I'm thinking of using 3M double sided tape...
 
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Well done.
I too had a wet passenger floor after my car sat in the rain all day. It seemed to be coming in the air vent but that drain was clear. You could hear water sloshing around somewhere. I must find my issue yet, likely also windshield related. There is an inner square cross section gasket that is loose on the inside, related?
 
The inner edge trim? Mine is tight against the glass. The 3M windshield sealer I bought many years ago comes in a can with a needle tip dispensor - I wedged it between the glass/sealant/inner trim & filled the gap that was visible once the trim was removed.
 
When I got the 86 same water trail you found on yours. Mine also reached the eletricals and soaked the fuse box I am thinking as it was pretty much shot and was the first thing I replaced.

Great job on the floor! and Sunrise Red does look really close. I spot sprayed some trunk areas where I repaired rust with it.
 
before I forget....

... it turned out that the water was also coming in along the bottom edge of the windshield. I applied the sealer to the inner edge, and seemed to resolve that.

Then I noticed that there was a small pool of water in the center of the floor... getting under the dash with the doors closed (no small feat in itself) whilst my son hosed the car, I saw that water was coming in above the pedal bracket... it turned out that water was 'wicking' past the cowl seal for the clutch & brake hoses, and running into the car :sigh:

I added sealant to the hoses as they pass through the grommet, and then made a small deflector strip to lay over the hoses at that juncture. Seems to have done the trick.

Now I just have to replace both door seals to take care of the little bit of water that is dripping from left side front, and right side back.

I also found that some water was coming in past the top of the right side air intake, running to the body & then dripping down on the backside of the sound deadening panel, and into the spare tire well.

Hopefully I found all the points of water ingress!
 
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