Another X with water coming out the tailpipe

spiggs

spiggs

True Classic
I had a head gasket go a while back. All the usual signs, coolant loss, water out the tail pipe, chocolate milk for oil. I took off the head and could clearly see where the gasket failed. So I cleaned the block, cleaned the head, put a straight edge across the face to make sure everything is flat, new gasket, torque the head, new oil and filter, re-torque the head. Still on start up I get some water out the tailpipe. It does not run rough and I don't see water in the oil, doesn't over heat and coolant loss is minimal where I wouldn't worry about it if I didn't see the water on start up. This is an early head so its not the thermostat housing gasket. What else should I be looking at? I must have missed something on re-assembly and don't want to pull the head and miss the same thing again.
 
It might not be coolant...

It might just be condensation from after the last hot shutdown. Examine it carefully (smell and visual) to be sure it's coolant. If it's clear and oderless, it's just condensation and it's normal. It's why a cold car "steams" from the exhaust in winter but it stops after the car is warmed up.

Pete
 
troubleshoot

spiggs said:
I had a head gasket go a while back. All the usual signs, coolant loss, water out the tail pipe, chocolate milk for oil. I took off the head and could clearly see where the gasket failed. So I cleaned the block, cleaned the head, put a straight edge across the face to make sure everything is flat, new gasket, torque the head, new oil and filter, re-torque the head. Still on start up I get some water out the tailpipe. It does not run rough and I don't see water in the oil, doesn't over heat and coolant loss is minimal where I wouldn't worry about it if I didn't see the water on start up. This is an early head so its not the thermostat housing gasket. What else should I be looking at? I must have missed something on re-assembly and don't want to pull the head and miss the same thing again.
Click to expand...

Before replacing a suspected or known bad head gasket I always do a leak down test before I start removing anything. There is nothing more frustrating than taking it apart, and not seeing the failure. A leak down will tell you where to look.
I have had to run cars for a few heat cycles to get all the old coolant out of the cat & muffler, so if you are seeing this coolant right after you have changed the head gasket give it some time.
It could also be your climate.
 
This is good advice...

A few years ago I did quite a bit of backyard wrenching. One client brought me her Toyota pickup that needed a head gasket. The dealership provided her with a detailed diagnostic of the problem including exhaust gasses detected in the coolant.

Cut to the end, where I "fixed" the headgasket. Turns out the "headgasket leak" was actually the worn timing chain eating into the timing chain cover, which has coolant channels for the water pump which mounts on it. I took the cover to a welder, replaced the timing chain, gears and guides, changed out the fluids and got it back on the road.

Don't jump to conclusions, don't believe everything you read, and when in doubt, check for yourself. Especially when "experts" are involved.

:whistle:
 
Mr. Spiggs... With you living in HB and all...

... I too would assume its nothing but condensation.

I don't have the tools for a leak-down test which I understand to be more accurate than others... but...

I would think a compression test and looking for evidence of air in the coolant and/or a loss of coolant should tell you what is going on... before pulling the head again.

Lastly, a pressure test of the cooling system would tell you if you were loosing coolant into any cylinders also. The test kit can be purchased or borrowed from Auto Zone or Pep Boys for a deposit.

Alex Kovatch will be working at his "garage" in Gardena for the next few days... page him or answer his thread (alexx19) in the discussion forum... and possibly other x-heads will be there also. Ya might wanna swing on by...
 
Thanks for the replies. I have been trying to convince myself that it is just condensation or residual coolant from the blown gasket but the amount has made me nervous. I'll drive it a bit more then do a leak down test and see what happens. Hopefully its all good!

Wish I had the time to help with Alex's wicked ride. Would like to see him out at the local autox again. Sounds like this is his last hurrah for a while.
 
cylinder leak down or coolant?

i understand a cooling pressure test that pressurizes the tank and watch for leakage or try to find where pressure is going or look for coolant. How do i pressurize the cylinder one at a time since the valves open and release the pressure. i just went thru engine so new rings and probably haven't seated yet. i don't have a bore scope to check cylinders for coolant in the am after a good run the night before. runs and sounds great just water in exhaust also and definately no hole in the head behind the stat housing. I took it apart yesterday and checked. Gene
 
I think when you do a leak-down test

which is what you are referring to, you position the piston at TDC in between the compression and power strokes. Balancing the piston at TDC makes it so the compressed air can't push the piston down, and using the comp/power stroke boundary ensures both valves are closed.

To do this, position the timing pointer to TDC. Then check the dizzy rotor for that cylinder. If the rotor is pointed towards that wire, then you are in the correct position. If the rotor is pointed 180 degrees away from that wire, rotate the crank 360 degrees and you will be in the correct position.

Pete
 
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